[alpha421]

I echo the same advises. A cheap $10-20 meter will do the job and many models have a continuity setting . Many Mogami, Canare and the likes cables have different colored sheathing for each group of wires. If you're going to be working with a specific make and model cable, develop a color code mapping such as red = right channel, blue = left channel, black = L/R ground, clear = L/R ground....etc. For each phase pair of wires at the source termination i.e. 3.5mm/2.5mm/4pin XLR, I would twist the set of wires to help keep track of which set is L and R channel.

Any visual check should always be tested by a meter or cable test box (used CT100) and finally the ears before attaching the connector barrel(s) and applying heat shrink.

 

[Carm86]

If you're gonna make cables, get an audio cable tester. The good ones have continuity tests and can also check finished cables. They are much faster to use than a meter.

These are good https://www.behringer.com/catalog.html?catalog=Category&category=C-BEHRINGER-AUDIOTOOLS-CABLETESTERS and cheap. The CT200 is better and costs less than 35 euros. Slam dunk for the price.

I'd love to find something like that that also does 4-pin XLR, but I've never been able to

 

[Ryukote]

If you're gonna make cables, get an audio cable tester. The good ones have continuity tests and can also check finished cables. They are much faster to use than a meter.

These are good https://www.behringer.com/catalog.html?catalog=Category&category=C-BEHRINGER-AUDIOTOOLS-CABLETESTERS and cheap. The CT200 is better and costs less than 35 euros. Slam dunk for the price.

Maybe a long shot question, but is there some model that can test a cable for HD600?

 

[alpha421]

Not that I'm aware of. Just need to remember that that the thicker pins for each channel on all HD6xx/5xx connectors are the grounds. Start and get familiar with a meter. It is a must tool. A cable box won't always identify all possible issues with the wiring and soldering. Everything may appear to be fine until you wiggle the cable at the connectors and sadly discover shorts, cross-talk, cut-outs, reverse phase, or bad/cold solder joints.

 

[gimmeheadroom]

A good audio cable tester is exactly for the purpose of checking intermittents, shorts, cross wiring. Look at the diagnostic features of the CT200 I linked above. And it has a continuity tester for cables with non-standard connectors and signal generator.

When you make up an XLR cable and other multi terminal cables it is much faster and conclusive to use a cable tester.

You still wiggle and pull the cable and connectors, that has nothing to do with cable tester vs. meter.

 

[chezzer]

How do you test a ZMF cable, for example?

What do you have at the amplifier end and I'll tell you the easiest way

 

[chezzer]

A good audio cable tester is exactly for the purpose of checking intermittents, shorts, cross wiring. Look at the diagnostic features of the CT200 I linked above. And it has a continuity tester for cables with non-standard connectors and signal generator.

When you make up an XLR cable and other multi terminal cables it is much faster and conclusive to use a cable tester.

You still wiggle and pull the cable and connectors, that has nothing to do with cable tester vs. meter.

Is there a cable tester that has every headphone port as well as every amplifier connector then, multimeter is the only way

 

[gimmeheadroom]

Is there a cable tester that has every headphone port as well as every amplifier connector then, multimeter is the only way

You don't need a multimeter, you need a continuity tester. Good cable testers have that, they're designed for testing audio cables. They're better for that purpose than a multimeter. I can test cables much faster and more accurately with a good cable tester than a meter.

Sure a multimeter is a must have if you're into electronics. But it is not the best tool for people who make cables.

 

[3ggerhappy]

Does anyone know if other such thing exist(other brand, manufacturer or the like for diy) of the cable coupler like in the pic?

 

[Fr3d Astaire]

Those are great sounding cans. Your approach is fine. Don't worry about the 2.5mm female connector. The 2.5mm male connector is the weakest link, but as long as the cable(s) aren't too thick and/or heavy, you should be fine. Most 2.5mm male connectors that develops issues is when there's lateral pressure that misaligns the 4 sections of the TRRS connector and often effects the left channel as the rings that corresponds to it bares the greatest pressure with the connector is fully inserted a source such as a DAP or amp and is accidentally dropped.

Also, if your project budget allows, invest in good quality 2.5mm connectors such as Plussounds or Eidolic.

Great, thanks! This is my first DIY attempt so I appreciate the feedback.

Initially I thought I'd need to just recable the 6-pin connector to change these from unbalanced to balanced. However, it appears that the cable between each set of cups has a shielded ground instead of separate wires.

1. Can I use the existing shield as a wire in a balanced cable (i.e. use the shield for L- & R-) or would I need to recable this as well?
2. Similiar question for the cups themselves, do I need to open up each side to check to make sure there are dedicated wires (instead of a ground wire) for L- & R-?

Here are some images, an existing (unbalanced) wiring diagram from Beyer, and a sketch of the new 6-pin balanced connection for reference.

 

[Carm86]

Does anyone know if other such thing exist(other brand, manufacturer or the like for diy) of the cable coupler like in the pic?

Would love something like that myself too. I've been using circular 4-pin connectors similar to those used on keyboard cables typically for now. It works fine, and it's definitely satisfying, but they're a bit heavy. That looks maybe a bit nicer

Where is that original pic/version from?

 

[Ryukote]

Would love something like that myself too. I've been using circular 4-pin connectors similar to those used on keyboard cables typically for now. It works fine, and it's definitely satisfying, but they're a bit heavy. That looks maybe a bit nicer

Where is that original pic/version from?

You mean aviator connector or YC-8?

 

[Carm86]

You mean aviator connector or YC-8?

yc-8

 

[Ryukote]

I hate YC-8. I am cable maker for keyboards and I pray that no one will ask for YC-8 connector. And YC-8 have too small hole for balanced 4 wired cable.
I would need to find something similar to YC-8 (maybe LEMO) that has big enough hole.

 

[3ggerhappy]

Would love something like that myself too. I've been using circular 4-pin connectors similar to those used on keyboard cables typically for now. It works fine, and it's definitely satisfying, but they're a bit heavy. That looks maybe a bit nicer

Where is that original pic/version from?

Thanks man for the circular 4 pin connectors suggestion these would work well for me too. Very nice alternative instead of using a set of mini 4 pin xlr set of male and female with the push button. The cable btw is from https://www.transparentcable.com/collections/analog-audio-headphone-cables