[noverbeck]

Surgical tubing is cheap and comes in a lot of diameters. It's not the most flexible tubing in the world but at small diameters it might be ok. Probably worth checking some medical supply houses online. For the price you won't lose much.

Now that's an interesting idea. Would you buy wire w/ color jacket, strip off the jacket, and resheath with the surgical tubing. Sounds very challenging. Have you done it? Wonder how the flexibility is.

 

[sennfan83261]

Surgical tubing is cheap and comes in a lot of diameters. It's not the most flexible tubing in the world but at small diameters it might be ok. Probably worth checking some medical supply houses online. For the price you won't lose much.

Do you work for Hifiman?

 

[gimmeheadroom]

Now that's an interesting idea. Would you buy wire w/ color jacket, strip off the jacket, and resheath with the surgical tubing. Sounds very challenging. Have you done it? Wonder how the flexibility is.

I have no idea. I started thinking about making my own cables and found this thread. I'm having difficulty understanding how people are paying huge money per foot or per meter for bulk cable. Shirley there has to be a way to buy rolls inexpensively? For me the most obvious solution is paracord covering because it's easy to pull cables through. I guess the people making clear covered cables are buying the wire already covered and just braiding it. I haven't seen that many examples but that looks how the ones I saw were made.

Do you work for Hifiman?

Not sure what that means because I don't have any Hifiman headphones. Are you saying the cover their cables in surgical tubing?

 

[mattiav]

Is there a shielded cable thats recommended?
https://www.redco.com/Canare-Quad-Microphone-Cable/
http://www.cardas.com/chassis_wire.php

Im guessing with shielded wire it wont be braided until after the y connector if I go the shielded route.

All star quad mic cables are shielded if you don’t strip it off. Braiding a long length is possible but a pain to get that much wire through paracord. Better to either leave the entire quad cable alone and add a paracord sheath for the looks, or just strip the rubber bit (leaving the foil shield). Thing is that most sources don’t have anywhere to ground the shield to - so not a whole lot of benefit. Then twist (either before or after paracord) the two pairs past the y split.

 

[Snow Blind]

I've bounced through a little of the 600+ pages here and 1000+ in the gallery and i cannot (sorry! lol) for the life of me figure out what cables to choose for a new headphone cable and amp/dac interconnects.

Cans are some HE4XXs. Not looking to braid or balance just want to make a few simple sets (different lengths) and sleeve with some paracord. Clean, simple and durable (flexible too).

The RCA interconnects are going to be ~6" to connect my amp/dac stack. These i'd like to be as flexible as possible so i can keep them super short and not have any kinking or pressure on the connectors in the boxes.

I was thinking of using:

• Headphones: Mogami W2799 or W2893. Seem popular. I know the W2799 with casing fits 550 sleeves. Would then size down on the L and R lengths to 325 or even 275? Not sure will have to research. Are these what i should be looking at? Anything better that would fit my application and requirements?

• RCAs: Mogami W2534. Should i be looking at a traditional coaxial wire instead? I've heard people use quad and i figured it would be more flexible. What do you think?

Any good (updated) guides i should check out? Most i find are for crazy braided 37 core, pure silver + Adamantium, builds. Wish there was a modern wiki with wire suggestions, diameters and sleeving options, connector pairings etc. (if there is one and i cant find it lmk! lol)

 

[gimmeheadroom]

Tin your wire beforehand, use a low melting point solder, and only keep the iron on the connector for a few seconds. Be sure not to squeeze the plastic when you're done as it will be soft, allow it to cool down before handling.

The other thing if somebody hasn't said it on one of the 628 pages of this thread is use heatsinks on the pins between the joint and the plastic case. They look like tiny pliers. You clamp them to the metal and they act as radiators to dissipate heat. I bought some decades ago from Radio Shack. There must be other sources.

 

[bryceu]

I'm certain there's plenty of suggestions throughout this topic but I feel too l lazy to read through everything so hoping some can share their recommendations for cable reliefs (Y-splitter) hardware for over-ear headphone cables. I'm looking for something big enough to fit Mogami quad mic cable single wires, wrapped in paracord, and quad braided. I've tried some of the speaker cable reliefs and they are too bulky, and I have some of the common ali-express carbon fiber ones, which are good for unwrapped wire but too small for paracord-wrapped wire.
Any suggestions? Not sure why my Google searches can't seem to find a good solution. Thanks!

 

[killaHz]

I'm certain there's plenty of suggestions throughout this topic but I feel too l lazy to read through everything so hoping some can share their recommendations for cable reliefs (Y-splitter) hardware for over-ear headphone cables. I'm looking for something big enough to fit Mogami quad mic cable single wires, wrapped in paracord, and quad braided. I've tried some of the speaker cable reliefs and they are too bulky, and I have some of the common ali-express carbon fiber ones, which are good for unwrapped wire but too small for paracord-wrapped wire.
Any suggestions? Not sure why my Google searches can't seem to find a good solution. Thanks!

I feel your pain. I went through this search a few months ago, and I don’t think there are any really good splitters for braided paracord-sleeved cables that one can buy for DIY purposes. One of these days, I plan to design something I can 3d print.

 

[jmpsmash]

My issue with finding those is that there are no consistent naming so searching is hard. going to ebay/aliexpress they go with different names with different vendors.

as for 3D printing, I have tried it. since we are talking about something rather small, with normal hobbyist FDM printer they don't look very good even with 0.15mm layer height. You will have to design it in such a way that the flaws don't show up. I didn't have a good enough design. It will take a bit more thoughts.

Someone with a resin printer might get a better result.

 

[bryceu]

I feel your pain. I went through this search a few months ago, and I don’t think there are any really good splitters for braided paracord-sleeved cables that one can buy for DIY purposes. One of these days, I plan to design something I can 3d print.

That'd be awesome. I've thought of making some out of wood, wouldn't be too hard and would be a cool look.

 

[teknorob23]

Morning all, I've made a digital coax/spdif cable with RCA connector one end and the 3.5mm jack to fit Hugo2's coax port. Theres a very limited selection of mono 3.5mm connectors to choose from, so i had opted to use oyaide rhodium plated 3.5mm stereo connector, and then bridge the earth and return solder points. I have done this successfully with headphone connectors and i can see Atlas cables use a stereo 3.5mm on there coax cables, but i am getting an intermittent connection in the Hugo2. I have tried other stereo connectors which create the same issue, whereas a 3.5mono works fine. Have i missed something?

this is the offending cable:

 

[jmpsmash]

Beautiful looking cable as always Teknorob!

Firstly, how long is the cable?

Second. Each stereo 3.5mm actually contain 2 SPDIF inputs to the Hugo2. I don't remember the names (or the "color"), but each of the 2 mono connections (ground+left, ground+right) correspond to a different input. If you merge them together it might confuse the Hugo2.

 

[jmpsmash]

I asked about the length because, even though SPDIF should be ok with 10m, I have seen signal getting degraded way before that, around 1m or so, probably due to out of spec, non 75Ohm cabling.

 

[jmpsmash]

looked up the Hugo 2 manual.

Coax 1 (yellow ball) : Tip and sleeve
Coax 2 (red ball) : Ring and sleeve

hope that helps

 

[teknorob23]

looked up the Hugo 2 manual.

Coax 1 (yellow ball) : Tip and sleeve
Coax 2 (red ball) : Ring and sleeve

hope that helps

Thanks and sadly that version is all looks and no function, or at least intermittent function .

The wire i've used is 1m of https://www.hificollective.co.uk/wire/neotech-digital-balanced-cable-nevd-2001.html , with WTB RCA connector which is supposedly rated at 75ohm (which i'm not sure is possible in a connector)

I've just had a look at the manual too, which i next time i'll do before starting, but i'm still not completely clear what they're referring to as their only appears to be one Coax port and do they mean "signal" is attached to the following: "

Coax1 configuration = Tip and sleeve, Coax 2 configuration = Ring and sleeve

These are the 2 configurations i have tried with the mono version.working fine, whereas the stereo version creates the intermittent connection if you twist the plug in the socket.

Sorry i'm probably just being thick!