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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread

Discussion in 'DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Discussions' started by wje, Aug 10, 2013.
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  1. jmpsmash
    it will be useful to know your budget and requirements. what are you trying to improve with a new cable?
     
  2. NiTROAUDiO
    Yes I am. But I'm mainly needing one for my m1060 because I bought some el cheapo and it's short. I am a experienced solderer. I just need the type if wire I need and the way I connect the end connectors.
     
  3. jmpsmash
    what's your budget?
     
  4. imas69
    Buy a 2 metre length of Mogami 2893 or Van Damme starquad, 8 metres of 3 or 4mm 550 paracord, 2 x 2.5mm mono jacks and your end jack ie 6.35mm or 4 pin xlr if you want a balanced cable ( you will need a balanced out on your amp), you might also want a splitter.
    Strip the 4 strands from the cable and sleeve individual strands in the paracord, secure in a vice and braid, you will find 4 strand videos on youtube. Make sure that you leave about
    25 to 30 cm to split into 2 twist twp strands together for left and right and secure with heatshrink.
    Solder left 2.5mm jack L+ to tip L- to ground/ sleeve, solder right 2.5mm jack R+ to tip R- to ground.
    Solder 6.35mm jack L+ to tip R+ to ring L- and R- to ground or for balanced xlr L+ to 1 L- to 2 R+ to 3 and R- to 4.
    This is the basics you will learn as you go.
    cosmic-cables.co.uk have a kit that you can buy with everything you need or some reasonably priced cables if you don't feel like making them yourself.
    Good luck
     
  5. Matthew420


    That's how I built my first cable, but for somebody who just wants something fast, breaking the mic cable down into strands, sheathing the strands, then rebraiding the wires is overkill. You can just split the mic cable's outer wrap about a foot down and twist two strands to each side. Maybe, if you're really wanting something fancy, you can cover the naked wire twists with some paracord and hide the junction between paracord and the original mic cable sheathing with some heatshrink.
     
  6. Matthew420
    Hey, does anybody know anything about this outfit making connectors out of Taiwan?

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...1.0&pvid=c4c5aa67-b40e-4a62-970d-c09e71387682

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...1.0&pvid=bae81098-ce2f-41d0-a0d7-4097bfc96dbb

    They look suspiciously similar to stuff sold by Satin Audio, Toxic Cable, and Eidolic — indeed, the two-pin connectors (second link above) appear to ship in nearly identical mylar packaging to the Eidolic ones I've bought. I'm wondering whether anybody knows if these are simply knockoffs, or whether they might all be made in the same factory. I love me some Eidolic connectors, but my success rate is not high enough to keep using those until I get a little more reliable with a soldering iron.
     
  7. sworder84
    Mogami 2893 - is the best cable which I've heard for my HE-560. I also have a silver one but Mogami is much natural and detail cable. I made one recently. I wonder there would be a difference if I made same with OCC copper? I listen them with Audio GD NFB-1 amp. I also use a solder with 2% silver.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2019
  8. hakuzen
    i don't know where are they made, but bought many cables using this kind of plugs from that shop, and can affirm their quality is quite superior than usual chinese knockoffs.
    in fact, price of these plugs in the chinese market is much higher than the usual cheap ones, and they aren't easy to find.
     
    Matthew420 likes this.
  9. bogginhead
    Anyone here have any idea on how to reterminate a 2.5mm TRRS female to 3.5mm TRS male? It's an 8-core adapter and I'm trying switch the 3.5mm TRS end to a 3.5mm TRRS plug (I'm pretty sure it needs to be wired Astell and Kern pinout). I have a good working multimeter, but the biggest issue for me is that every wire is the same color (silver-plated wire), and it looks like the replacement 3.5mm TRRS plug I purchased has the ground on the backside of the other 3 rings; never seen one like this before.

    When I check it with a multimeter, I'm getting 2 L positive, 2 right positive, 2 ground positive, and 2 sleeve positive. Is this right? Should I go ahead and attach 2 of each to their corresponding rings / spots? I still haven't been able to find the Astell and Kern pinout for the part of the plug where I'll be soldering to. Any help is greatly appreciated!
     
  10. teknorob23
    i'm fed up trying to corrall my anaconda-like Tellurium q usb cable with audioquest Female USB B to micro usb male adapter to connect to my Hugo2. No matter how try to secure it, it is still placing stress on the port. It appears no one makes a cable version of this, which leaves me with the option of making one. Has anyone here any experience of make usb cables and or found a supplier for decent quality connectors? thx:)

    the offending article:

    Screenshot 2019-10-21 at 22.26.32.png
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2019
  11. hakuzen
    ghentaudio's usb cables?
    https://www.ghentaudio.com/usb/u08.html
    [​IMG]

    guess you could ask for USB A male connector instead of female.
     
    teknorob23 likes this.
  12. teknorob23
    thank you for this. I emailed and had a response within an hour to say they could make one and post it to uk all for $25. Perfect thanks and its quite a relief, as although i love making most audio cables i think life might be too short for sweating over one of these. Thanks again :):)
     
  13. hakuzen
    yea, it's not worthy to mess with tiny usb contacts while Ghent does the job very well at very reasonable price. i already bought about 5 usb cables there.
    it's my pleasure, mate, hope you like it.
     
    teknorob23 likes this.
  14. chrisdrop
    Hi all,

    With some very welcome help and guidance from @teknorob23 (tx v much) I have just assembled my 1st cable, a (UK) power cable. I have managed to get the courage to plug it into something that I could break if it happened. Then, I have been letting it power my printer. It seems to not be broken at least.

    That seems like an awkward generalised testing approach however! I intend to use the cable to power an amplifier which I'd really like to not damage! Any recommendations for how to test UK power cables robustly? It seems to work, however I am not sure if there is anything more I should be doing.

    Tx for any thoughts,
    Chris
     
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