[jmpsmash]

it will be useful to know your budget and requirements. what are you trying to improve with a new cable?

 

[NiTROAUDiO]

What is your budget, m1060 are 2.5mm jacks but the sundara are 3.5mm jacks, are you building for both.

Yes I am. But I'm mainly needing one for my m1060 because I bought some el cheapo and it's short. I am a experienced solderer. I just need the type if wire I need and the way I connect the end connectors.

 

[jmpsmash]

what's your budget?

 

[imas69]

Buy a 2 metre length of Mogami 2893 or Van Damme starquad, 8 metres of 3 or 4mm 550 paracord, 2 x 2.5mm mono jacks and your end jack ie 6.35mm or 4 pin xlr if you want a balanced cable ( you will need a balanced out on your amp), you might also want a splitter.
Strip the 4 strands from the cable and sleeve individual strands in the paracord, secure in a vice and braid, you will find 4 strand videos on youtube. Make sure that you leave about
25 to 30 cm to split into 2 twist twp strands together for left and right and secure with heatshrink.
Solder left 2.5mm jack L+ to tip L- to ground/ sleeve, solder right 2.5mm jack R+ to tip R- to ground.
Solder 6.35mm jack L+ to tip R+ to ring L- and R- to ground or for balanced xlr L+ to 1 L- to 2 R+ to 3 and R- to 4.
This is the basics you will learn as you go.
cosmic-cables.co.uk have a kit that you can buy with everything you need or some reasonably priced cables if you don't feel like making them yourself.
Good luck

 

[imas69]

https://www.cosmic-cables.co.uk/build-your-own-headphone-cable

 

[killaHz]

Buy a 2 metre length of Mogami 2893 or Van Damme starquad, 8 metres of 3 or 4mm 550 paracord, 2 x 2.5mm mono jacks and your end jack ie 6.35mm or 4 pin xlr if you want a balanced cable ( you will need a balanced out on your amp), you might also want a splitter.

Strip the 4 strands from the cable and sleeve individual strands in the paracord, secure in a vice and braid, you will find 4 strand videos on youtube. Make sure that you leave about
25 to 30 cm to split into 2 twist twp strands together for left and right and secure with heatshrink.
Solder left 2.5mm jack L+ to tip L- to ground/ sleeve, solder right 2.5mm jack R+ to tip R- to ground.
Solder 6.35mm jack L+ to tip R+ to ring L- and R- to ground or for balanced xlr L+ to 1 L- to 2 R+ to 3 and R- to 4.
This is the basics you will learn as you go.
cosmic-cables.co.uk have a kit that you can buy with everything you need or some reasonably priced cables if you don't feel like making them yourself.
Good luck

https://www.cosmic-cables.co.uk/build-your-own-headphone-cable

That's how I built my first cable, but for somebody who just wants something fast, breaking the mic cable down into strands, sheathing the strands, then rebraiding the wires is overkill. You can just split the mic cable's outer wrap about a foot down and twist two strands to each side. Maybe, if you're really wanting something fancy, you can cover the naked wire twists with some paracord and hide the junction between paracord and the original mic cable sheathing with some heatshrink.

 

[killaHz]

Hey, does anybody know anything about this outfit making connectors out of Taiwan?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...1.0&pvid=c4c5aa67-b40e-4a62-970d-c09e71387682

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...1.0&pvid=bae81098-ce2f-41d0-a0d7-4097bfc96dbb

They look suspiciously similar to stuff sold by Satin Audio, Toxic Cable, and Eidolic — indeed, the two-pin connectors (second link above) appear to ship in nearly identical mylar packaging to the Eidolic ones I've bought. I'm wondering whether anybody knows if these are simply knockoffs, or whether they might all be made in the same factory. I love me some Eidolic connectors, but my success rate is not high enough to keep using those until I get a little more reliable with a soldering iron.

 

[sworder84]

Mogami 2893 - is the best cable which I've heard for my HE-560. I also have a silver one but Mogami is much natural and detail cable. I made one recently. I wonder there would be a difference if I made same with OCC copper? I listen them with Audio GD NFB-1 amp. I also use a solder with 2% silver.

 

[hakuzen]

Hey, does anybody know anything about this outfit making connectors out of Taiwan?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...1.0&pvid=c4c5aa67-b40e-4a62-970d-c09e71387682

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...1.0&pvid=bae81098-ce2f-41d0-a0d7-4097bfc96dbb

They look suspiciously similar to stuff sold by Satin Audio, Toxic Cable, and Eidolic — indeed, the two-pin connectors (second link above) appear to ship in nearly identical mylar packaging to the Eidolic ones I've bought. I'm wondering whether anybody knows if these are simply knockoffs, or whether they might all be made in the same factory. I love me some Eidolic connectors, but my success rate is not high enough to keep using those until I get a little more reliable with a soldering iron.

i don't know where are they made, but bought many cables using this kind of plugs from that shop, and can affirm their quality is quite superior than usual chinese knockoffs.
in fact, price of these plugs in the chinese market is much higher than the usual cheap ones, and they aren't easy to find.

 

[bogginhead]

Anyone here have any idea on how to reterminate a 2.5mm TRRS female to 3.5mm TRS male? It's an 8-core adapter and I'm trying switch the 3.5mm TRS end to a 3.5mm TRRS plug (I'm pretty sure it needs to be wired Astell and Kern pinout). I have a good working multimeter, but the biggest issue for me is that every wire is the same color (silver-plated wire), and it looks like the replacement 3.5mm TRRS plug I purchased has the ground on the backside of the other 3 rings; never seen one like this before.

When I check it with a multimeter, I'm getting 2 L positive, 2 right positive, 2 ground positive, and 2 sleeve positive. Is this right? Should I go ahead and attach 2 of each to their corresponding rings / spots? I still haven't been able to find the Astell and Kern pinout for the part of the plug where I'll be soldering to. Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[teknorob23]

i'm fed up trying to corrall my anaconda-like Tellurium q usb cable with audioquest Female USB B to micro usb male adapter to connect to my Hugo2. No matter how try to secure it, it is still placing stress on the port. It appears no one makes a cable version of this, which leaves me with the option of making one. Has anyone here any experience of make usb cables and or found a supplier for decent quality connectors? thx

the offending article:

 

[hakuzen]

i'm fed up trying to corrall my anaconda-like Tellurium q usb cable with audioquest Female USB B to micro usb male adapter to connect to my Hugo2. No matter how try to secure it, it is still placing stress on the port. It appears no one makes a cable version of this, which leaves me with the option of making one. Has anyone here any experience of make usb cables and or found a supplier for decent quality connectors? thx

the offending article:

ghentaudio's usb cables?
https://www.ghentaudio.com/usb/u08.html

guess you could ask for USB A male connector instead of female.

 

[teknorob23]

ghentaudio's usb cables?
https://www.ghentaudio.com/usb/u08.html

guess you could ask for USB A male connector instead of female.

thank you for this. I emailed and had a response within an hour to say they could make one and post it to uk all for $25. Perfect thanks and its quite a relief, as although i love making most audio cables i think life might be too short for sweating over one of these. Thanks again

 

[hakuzen]

thank you for this. I emailed and had a response within an hour to say they could make one and post it to uk all for $25. Perfect thanks and its quite a relief, as although i love making most audio cables i think life might be too short for sweating over one of these. Thanks again

yea, it's not worthy to mess with tiny usb contacts while Ghent does the job very well at very reasonable price. i already bought about 5 usb cables there.
it's my pleasure, mate, hope you like it.

 

[chrisdrop]

Hi all,

With some very welcome help and guidance from @teknorob23 (tx v much) I have just assembled my 1st cable, a (UK) power cable. I have managed to get the courage to plug it into something that I could break if it happened. Then, I have been letting it power my printer. It seems to not be broken at least.

That seems like an awkward generalised testing approach however! I intend to use the cable to power an amplifier which I'd really like to not damage! Any recommendations for how to test UK power cables robustly? It seems to work, however I am not sure if there is anything more I should be doing.

Tx for any thoughts,
Chris