DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Jul 17, 2017 at 11:22 AM Post #7,261 of 10,535
I've got Mogami w2893 (4.8mm) and w2929 (2.7mm), but I'm looking for something in between. I want bigger than the w2929, but more flexible than the w2893. Anybody know of such a wire? The stock cable on my K553's is almost as thick as the w2893, but MUCH more flexible.

Would pulling the conductors from Mogami 2534 or Canare L-4E6S and then braiding them result in a more flexible cable than whole 2893?

Or does anybody have an opinion on Belden 1804?
 
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Jul 18, 2017 at 1:17 AM Post #7,262 of 10,535
Most of the stiffness is a result of the shield and outer jacket. Simply removing the conductors and resleeving them in nylon multifiliment results in a very flexible cable. Ideally you would remove the conductors but leave them twisted together until the y split.
 
Jul 19, 2017 at 12:04 PM Post #7,263 of 10,535
Most of the stiffness is a result of the shield and outer jacket. Simply removing the conductors and resleeving them in nylon multifiliment results in a very flexible cable. Ideally you would remove the conductors but leave them twisted together until the y split.

Doing single entry, so no Y-split. If I strip the jacket and shield off some Canare L-4E6S and sleeve it in paracord, which is better: braided or just loose/straight inside the sleeve? Does it make a difference in terms of interference or microphonics?
 
Jul 19, 2017 at 12:12 PM Post #7,264 of 10,535
Doing single entry, so no Y-split. If I strip the jacket and shield off some Canare L-4E6S and sleeve it in paracord, which is better: braided or just loose/straight inside the sleeve? Does it make a difference in terms of interference or microphonics?

I've had good luck just leaving the 4 wires braided (after removing the jacket, shield, etc.) and then sleeving all of them together in larger size paracord or techflex (3/16"). Cable is nice and flexible. Holds a nice round shape. Microphonics are minimal.

So, no extra braiding needed. I just keep the original factory braid for the four wires. And no need to sleeve each wire individually in paracord.
 
Jul 19, 2017 at 12:30 PM Post #7,265 of 10,535
I'd suggest you braid before sheathing the wires (or just keep the braiding on the wires when the exterior parts are removed). Braiding or twisting makes the signal less vulnerable to RF or EMi interference, but in the short lengths suitable for headphone cables and in normal household levels of RF/EMI, it most likely will make no difference. Still, it's always good to be on the safe side. Plus, braiding will make the cable stronger with less risk of breaking any single wire. And, IMO, looks better even when sheathed.
 
Jul 20, 2017 at 1:41 AM Post #7,267 of 10,535
Thanks for the answers guys. I didn't know it was already braided inside the rubber jacket (I'm just making plans for when my supplies get delivered). This job is getting easier and easier
they are not braided in the original jacket; they are twisted, but twisted very well.
 
Jul 21, 2017 at 10:24 AM Post #7,268 of 10,535
Hi, I'm just doing some research on DIY cabling and am trying to get through this thread, but it's pretty long!

I have a (probably dumb) question about twisting two cables together. Say for a set of headphones, you start with 4 wires braided together, then go through a splitter for two wires to each headphone - I assume you just twist the two wires together? What is stopping them unravelling and coming apart? Or would they unravel if you twisted them back the other way?

Cheers, Mike
 
Jul 21, 2017 at 10:31 AM Post #7,269 of 10,535
Hi, I'm just doing some research on DIY cabling and am trying to get through this thread, but it's pretty long!

I have a (probably dumb) question about twisting two cables together. Say for a set of headphones, you start with 4 wires braided together, then go through a splitter for two wires to each headphone - I assume you just twist the two wires together? What is stopping them unravelling and coming apart? Or would they unravel if you twisted them back the other way?

Cheers, Mike

The restrain of the metal itself will retain the twisted form after a couple twists.......
 
Jul 21, 2017 at 10:31 AM Post #7,270 of 10,535
Hi, I'm just doing some research on DIY cabling and am trying to get through this thread, but it's pretty long!

I have a (probably dumb) question about twisting two cables together. Say for a set of headphones, you start with 4 wires braided together, then go through a splitter for two wires to each headphone - I assume you just twist the two wires together? What is stopping them unravelling and coming apart? Or would they unravel if you twisted them back the other way?

Cheers, Mike

Twisting will result in "tension" on the wire and forcing it to want to return to an untwisted state. Think of it more as "overlapping" the wires so that you don't build tension.
 
Jul 21, 2017 at 11:29 AM Post #7,271 of 10,535
Twisting the wires will change the shape of each of them from straight to slightly wavy. If you've done it correctly, the overlapping that WayTooCrazy mentions means that they cross each other in such a way that the shape of the wires together with their natural stiffness holds them together. They will come apart if you twist them in the opposite direction but will retain some of that waviness. Once twisted, they should stay twisted as long as the ends are terminated, either in a plug for the headphones or just taped together while you're working.
 
Jul 21, 2017 at 11:38 AM Post #7,272 of 10,535
The restrain of the metal itself will retain the twisted form after a couple twists.......

Twisting will result in "tension" on the wire and forcing it to want to return to an untwisted state. Think of it more as "overlapping" the wires so that you don't build tension.

Thanks both. So I should be OK just to crack on and not twist them so much. Thanks!
 
Jul 21, 2017 at 12:36 PM Post #7,273 of 10,535
What keeps them from untwisting is the fact that both ends are fixed in place. When you disconnect the cable from the headphones they CAN untwist. They usually won't if they are left undisturbed for the reasons cited above, but they are capable of untwisting anytime they are disconnected from the headphones. Sheathing them in a jacket keeps them from untwisting too.
 
Jul 21, 2017 at 12:48 PM Post #7,274 of 10,535
What keeps them from untwisting is the fact that both ends are fixed in place. When you disconnect the cable from the headphones they CAN untwist. They usually won't if they are left undisturbed for the reasons cited above, but they are capable of untwisting anytime they are disconnected from the headphones. Sheathing them in a jacket keeps them from untwisting too.

Overlapping them, so that they actually don't create tension will allow the wires to remain pretty much "overlapped" even un-terminated. This is the reason why "machine" twisted wires can have the jacket removed and they remain twisted. They don't have tension built up tension trying to untwist them.

This is the perfect video for demonstrating why "overlapping" is better than "twisting"...

 
Jul 21, 2017 at 3:45 PM Post #7,275 of 10,535
Well I thought I’d give it a quick trial on some cheap stuff before I try anything better. I didn’t braid it far enough in, so that’s something to be aware of, but it works fine! Yay! Almost ashamed to put it on here given what I’ve seen so far but what the hell, a parent has got to love their child right!
 

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