[MikeJSmith]

Oops, didn’t add the photo!

 

[Whitigir]

Everything has a beginning. Just so as long as you are moving and working on that iron, you are pretty good . Your works will improve overtime if electrical-DIY is one of your hobby as well

 

[Pilotdog68]

they are not braided in the original jacket; they are twisted, but twisted very well.

Thanks again guys. Here's my 4ft cable using Canare L-4E6S. The twist does a good job of holding the shape, I'll just have to be careful not to pinch it in anything. I'll be making another tomorrow using Mogami 2893. I'll probably leave the jacket on that one for durability.

Honestly these connectors are a nice break from the stuff I normally solder.

 

[Little Bear]

So, I'm about to attempt my first custom cable build. The plan is for a 5' TRS cable for my Audeze cans. I'm using 24 awg wire from BTG and it will be braided and then inserted into paracord 550. At the split, the two Y ends will be twisted and then each twisted pair will be inserted in paracord 95.

I'm a newb at this and could use some clarification on a few simple things.

1. I have a Rean TRS jack that came with a roughly 1" long clear plastic thingy. Is it supposed to be a strain relief, or clear shrink tubing? If shrink tubing, should it be shrunk over the wires completely inside the rear part of the connector, or some of it be visible sticking out the back when I'm done?

2. The 550 paracord is awfully small diameter for the connector's exit point, isn't it? Is this a concern? Is it going to get much bigger with 4x24awg wires braided inside it? It looks kinda funny this way.

3. I'm not quite certain how to wire this baby up. Of the two obvious connection points, which one is the tip and which is the ring? And where does the sleeve wire get soldered to? Are those two rear tabs just for clamping the wires in place after soldering? There's also a thin piece of material that I assume is an insulator.

 

[Allanmarcus]

So, I'm about to attempt my first custom cable build. The plan is for a 5' TRS cable for my Audeze cans. I'm using 24 awg wire from BTG and it will be braided and then inserted into paracord 550. At the split, the two Y ends will be twisted and then each twisted pair will be inserted in paracord 95.

I'm a newb at this and could use some clarification on a few simple things.

1. I have a Rean TRS jack that came with a roughly 1" long clear plastic thingy. Is it supposed to be a strain relief, or clear shrink tubing? If shrink tubing, should it be shrunk over the wires completely inside the rear part of the connector, or some of it be visible sticking out the back when I'm done?

It's insulation between the wires and plug.

2. The 550 paracord is awfully small diameter for the connector's exit point, isn't it? Is this a concern? Is it going to get much bigger with 4x24awg wires braided inside it? It looks kinda funny this way.

The most common solution is to use a better fitting plug, but if that is not possible, one solid piece of heat shrink over the plug and about an inch over the wire.

3. I'm not quite certain how to wire this baby up. Of the two obvious connection points, which one is the tip and which is the ring? And where does the sleeve wire get soldered to? Are those two rear tabs just for clamping the wires in place after soldering? There's also a thin piece of material that I assume is an insulator.

The pad is insulator.

The "wings" are wire crimps for strain relief. I solder the common (ground) to plate on the flip side of the insulator.

 

[Little Bear]

Thank you sir. All clear now.

 

[Allanmarcus]

@Little Bear , sorry forgot to answer your other questions and concerns.

two 24AWG wires twisted together will not likely fit into 95lb paracord. Certainly you can try, but one 24AWG is a tight fit.

If you are going to make cables, get a multimeter. Any cheap one is fine. You just need to be able to check for continuity, which allows you to determine what is connected to what. I wrote up a little set of instructions here. Once you have a multimeter, you can determine which solder lug is tip and ring. Until then, the smaller one is tip, and the bent one is ring.

 

[Little Bear]

@Little Bear , sorry forgot to answer your other questions and concerns.

two 24AWG wires twisted together will not likely fit into 95lb paracord. Certainly you can try, but one 24AWG is a tight fit.

If you are going to make cables, get a multimeter. Any cheap one is fine. You just need to be able to check for continuity, which allows you to determine what is connected to what. I wrote up a little set of instructions here. Once you have a multimeter, you can determine which solder lug is tip and ring. Until then, the smaller one is tip, and the bent one is ring.

Just give me a hard slap on the back of the head. I have a MM and should have thought to use it to answer my own question. I use it mostly for automotive troubleshooting.

I'll just sleeve the 'Y' wires individually in the 95 and then twist them. I like that idea better anyway.

Thanks again.

 

[darmanastartes]

How do I disassemble a Neutrik/Rean RT4FC-B female mini-XLR plug so I can get to the leads?

 

[Little Bear]

The black part unscrews.

 

[darmanastartes]

The black part unscrews.

How hard is it to unscrew? I tried but it didn't give easily.
EDIT: The black outer cover does not unscrew.

 

[TYATYA]

Hi every one,
Where do you buy a good wire for diy?
I want to find copper wire as in picture (said pure coper 7N and there's 300 threads in a core).
I really like this wire for diy demand but did not find a local seller. I must bought other or any cable use that wire and then, cut its terminal.... to got its wire.
High cost, apprx $220 for a 1m long.
So I want to buy real raw material at a suitable cost.
Pls help. Thx

 

[Little Bear]

How hard is it to unscrew? I tried but it didn't give easily.
EDIT: The black outer cover does not unscrew.

Yeah it looks like the strain relief unscrews from the back but it appears the part with the contacts may just push out from front to back. Go here and take the link for the pdf assembly info on the upper right part of the page:

http://www.rean-connectors.com/en/products/tiny-xlr-cable-connectors/rt4fc-b

 

[darmanastartes]

Yeah it looks like the strain relief unscrews from the back but it appears the part with the contacts may just push out from front to back. Go here and take the link for the pdf assembly info on the upper right part of the page:

http://www.rean-connectors.com/en/products/tiny-xlr-cable-connectors/rt4fc-b

Yup, that did it. Thanks!

 

[TYATYA]

I use 7N coper wire (left side) and hybrid coper-silver plated wire (right side, silver plated threads in center so we cant see in pic) to diy a 10cm 3.5 to 3.5.
The soud is difference btw two. Right side one is like crappy with upper bass increase.
But left side one, do great job