DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Nov 11, 2015 at 6:24 PM Post #4,381 of 10,535
 
Yep, that's the stuff I am planning on getting. I will also get mogami 2893 wire and this Switchcraft 35HDLBAUS plug so I can use it with a 3.5mm jack, and screw on a 1/4" jack in a pinch. I'm also thinking of this Carbon Fiber Micro Y-Split Cover from Double Helix Cables.
 
Cost of cable:
 
MrSpeakers tips: $14 (shipped for free sine I got them with my headphones)
Cable (6'): 5.64  (free shipping from Markertek)
Plug: $7.69 (free shipping from Markertek)
Sleeve: 7.84 (shipped from ebay)
$35.17 if I use heat shrink for the Y split
 
Quite the deal. Of, if I want to get a little fancier, I can add:
 
Y-Split:  $16 (had to throw in an adapter to get cart above minimum order of $15) 
 
So, $51.17 gets me a decent portable cable with a fancy Y-split, plus an adapter! I love DIY.
 
Umm, the small openings on the Y split are 4mm. Will that accommodate the two wires from the 2893 and tech techflex nylon sleeve?

4mm should be big enough. The basic 1/8 " connector is 6mm I had to ream out a 1/8" connector to fit 4 paracord covered wires. So two wires with that techflex should fit just fine. 
 
Nov 11, 2015 at 8:23 PM Post #4,382 of 10,535
  I am interested lately to make my own CIEM cable, I would like to know what cable wire is the closest in feel as the one used in the standard UE/JH/1964 replacement cable.
I have one of this cable and it's a good wire, pliable, soft, thin, doesn't retain kinks. What wire do you recommend? I am a bit lost. How can I know the physical properties of a wire from specs? Does teflon mean it pliable? PFE? What about microphonics?  
 
Also I am looking for a small 90deg right angle plug and so far these seems to be good  
 
https://world.taobao.com/item/522752671103.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.J3vDeK#detail
   
this one seems good but I don't know how flexible is the tail to be used as a strain relief
 
 
https://world.tmall.com/item/520459603758.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.J3vDeK
 
 
I am actually thinking of "casting" the 90deg plug I have on the original jh/westone/1964 cable from some kind of rubber/plastic but have no clue what material to use.
 
For the 078mm pin I am thinking of buying them here https://world.taobao.com/item/520928025466.htm?spm=a312a.7728556.1414651174895.6.1JE2AR&scm=1007.10146.12547.0&id=520928025466&pvid=58aecf3f-fe00-4b4b-88d3-35bb8bf5f022 and use uv resin in a cast done from the plugs I have on the original cable...or buy those pre-made.
 
So far the most difficult part is to actually knowing what is a good wire...

Nobody?
 
Nov 11, 2015 at 9:07 PM Post #4,383 of 10,535
  Nobody?

I'll take a shot. Is your cable bad or do you just want to make your own cable? I don't have your CIEM's ( or any IEM's) so I can't comment on the wire used and it's pliability. Teflon is not real pliable PE is a better choice for that. I don't know what PFE is PTFE is Teflon. The connector in the upper right is a person to solder. I tried a connector like that one and was saying many nasty things till I threw it across the room. It might be me not having the right heat or using flux but it made me just scream the whole time. I don't know if this helps but at least you got a response. As far as good wire that is just too subjective to answer.
 
Nov 11, 2015 at 9:18 PM Post #4,384 of 10,535
Thanks, I just want to make my own cable. Thank you for the Teflon explanation that's clear things for me.
About the connector you mentioned, do you remember what kind of plastic was the cover part? was it flexible enough to use as strain relief (kind of rubbery) or was it solid with no flex at all?
 
Nov 11, 2015 at 9:31 PM Post #4,385 of 10,535
  Thanks, I just want to make my own cable. Thank you for the Teflon explanation that's clear things for me.
About the connector you mentioned, do you remember what kind of plastic was the cover part? was it flexible enough to use as strain relief (kind of rubbery) or was it solid with no flex at all?

Not sure I know what you mean by cover part? Do you mean what covered the connector posts? Wait I think you mean the outer of the connector housing. It was a straight metal housing so that doesn't help you there. If it was me I would hot glue the connector for strain relief.  
 
Nov 11, 2015 at 10:54 PM Post #4,387 of 10,535
Nov 12, 2015 at 4:07 AM Post #4,388 of 10,535
Hello there.
 
I plan on using my Hifiman-HE400i in balanced mode in the future and have a quastion.
 
I dont intend to build a theheadphone cable myself, i will order that from Forza AudioWorks.
 
BUT i would like to build my own extension cable for that, and wanted to ask here if my part selection is correct and how to properly build it.
 
The headphone cable will be this one:  http://forzaaudioworks.com/en/product.php?id_product=80
Terminated for Hifiman HE Series and with 4-pin XLR Male plug.
 
For the extension cable i want to use the following parts:
 
http://shop.sommercable.com/en/Cables/Bulk-Cables-Audio/Mikrofonkabel-SC-Square-4-Core-MKII-200-0301-highflex.html
http://www.neutrik.us/en-us/xlr/xx-series/nc4fxx
http://www.neutrik.us/en-us/xlr/xx-series/nc4mxx
 
And will connect them like this:
 
http://dhd-audio.de/dhd_files/doc/2_sysref/pics/rm420_701_schematic1.gif
 
Will those parts work and is the quality good enough?
 
And regarding the pinout, i have read on some occasions to NOT connect the shield to anything.
Some say just connect the shield to the connector housing.
And some others say that its to be done like in the picture above (shield connected to housing AND Pin4)
 
What is the correct/best way to do it?
 
Hopefully someone can help me out here :)
 
Greetings, Mario
 
Nov 12, 2015 at 4:40 PM Post #4,389 of 10,535
  Hello there.
 
I plan on using my Hifiman-HE400i in balanced mode in the future and have a quastion.
 
I dont intend to build a theheadphone cable myself, i will order that from Forza AudioWorks.
 
BUT i would like to build my own extension cable for that, and wanted to ask here if my part selection is correct and how to properly build it.
 
The headphone cable will be this one:  http://forzaaudioworks.com/en/product.php?id_product=80
Terminated for Hifiman HE Series and with 4-pin XLR Male plug.
 
For the extension cable i want to use the following parts:
 
http://shop.sommercable.com/en/Cables/Bulk-Cables-Audio/Mikrofonkabel-SC-Square-4-Core-MKII-200-0301-highflex.html
http://www.neutrik.us/en-us/xlr/xx-series/nc4fxx
http://www.neutrik.us/en-us/xlr/xx-series/nc4mxx
 
And will connect them like this:
 
http://dhd-audio.de/dhd_files/doc/2_sysref/pics/rm420_701_schematic1.gif
 
Will those parts work and is the quality good enough?
 
And regarding the pinout, i have read on some occasions to NOT connect the shield to anything.
Some say just connect the shield to the connector housing.
And some others say that its to be done like in the picture above (shield connected to housing AND Pin4)
 
What is the correct/best way to do it?
 
Hopefully someone can help me out here :)
 
Greetings, Mario


Yes all that would work fine. I don't get why make a extension cable ? Why not get a longer cable made? I can't see paying that kind of money for a cable with good wire and then use lesser wire for an extension. That's up to you though.
 
Nov 13, 2015 at 12:34 AM Post #4,390 of 10,535
 
Yes all that would work fine. I don't get why make a extension cable ? Why not get a longer cable made? I can't see paying that kind of money for a cable with good wire and then use lesser wire for an extension. That's up to you though.

 
Thank you very much for your reply.
If you could add an opinion or suggestion on how or if to connect the shield to anything i would really appretiate it.
 
Regarding the reason for an extension:
 
In my living room the distance between my couch and the Hifi-Rack with all my components (for speakers and for headphones) is roughly 5 meters.
 
For "serious" listening i place a comfy chair beside the rack, and the 1,5m cable will be more than enough.
 
For TV and Movies i have to sit on the couch, hence the need for a longer cable.
But i dont need the last bit of SQ in this cases and wont pay hundreds of euros for it
rolleyes.gif

 
And additionally the signal path itself is not optimal to start with for this scenario (NAS --> WLAN --> TV --> Optical_out --> DAC --> AMP).
I think there is so much loss already in this path that i wont really benefit from a more expensive cable
tongue_smile.gif

 
Nov 13, 2015 at 8:57 AM Post #4,391 of 10,535
Thank you very much for your reply.
If you could add an opinion or suggestion on how or if to connect the shield to anything i would really appretiate it.

Regarding the reason for an extension:

In my living room the distance between my couch and the Hifi-Rack with all my components (for speakers and for headphones) is roughly 5 meters.

For "serious" listening i place a comfy chair beside the rack, and the 1,5m cable will be more than enough.

For TV and Movies i have to sit on the couch, hence the need for a longer cable.
But i dont need the last bit of SQ in this cases and wont pay hundreds of euros for it :rolleyes:

And additionally the signal path itself is not optimal to start with for this scenario (NAS --> WLAN --> TV --> Optical_out --> DAC --> AMP).
I think there is so much loss already in this path that i wont really benefit from a more expensive cable :tongue_smile:
I understand now what you have should do just fine.
 
Nov 15, 2015 at 10:56 AM Post #4,392 of 10,535
How do I get the rear part off of the MrSpeakers Alpha/Ether connector (SN-8-4(P)) so that I can access the solder points?
 
I'm quite confused and I'm sure its jsut something simple that I haven't been able to search for correctly
 
Started making my first DIY cable, it's going well so far!
 
Nov 15, 2015 at 11:11 AM Post #4,393 of 10,535
  How do I get the rear part off of the MrSpeakers Alpha/Ether connector (SN-8-4(P)) so that I can access the solder points?
 
I'm quite confused and I'm sure its jsut something simple that I haven't been able to search for correctly
 
Started making my first DIY cable, it's going well so far!

Hold the part of the connector that goes in to the phones by pushing the sliding part back and twist the end where the rubber boot was.
 
Nov 15, 2015 at 11:17 AM Post #4,395 of 10,535

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