DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Sep 9, 2014 at 7:05 AM Post #2,476 of 10,535
  Bought a 26AWG BTG silver plated copper cable to make a cable for my Sennheiser HD700. When I braid 4 wires, is there any technique that is a must for braiding or I can choose techniques like these https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pOEfGKCkaY and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLjs_MeGNpo ?

 
I personally love this guide: http://www.seekyee.com/Slings/howtos/4strand.htm
 
Sep 9, 2014 at 11:35 AM Post #2,478 of 10,535
@DJScope 
@Kamakahah
 
 
Thanks both of you for the advice. I need to check my supplies (meant to last night but got busy) and see what all I purchased. I know I have a roll of nice solder. Not sure about solder wick (to remove excess solder), but I will pick some up. I guess a lot of solder seems to have flux in it, so I will check on this tonight. 
 
Great to hear, I think I will use the 24AWG for now and see how it comes out, just mock braid it and see if I like the thickness, size, weight, etc...before buying more wire. 
 
For Neutrik, Oyaide, Canare, Double Helix, etc...I would be curious to find (just tried researching for a few minutes) the various common options people are using. Yes there are probably 30 different brands, but other than Neutrik what are some go to options? It does seem the Neutrik is well regarded. 
 
What do I do for the split in the cable? Where the 4 wires get split to two for each headphone. Heat shrink is used here?
 
I will check out the paracord and nylon multifilament. I remember searching for cotton sleeving and trying to find something similar to unbleached cotton but had a pattern. Sort of high end stuff, but I was going to have to order a massive amount. Some guy had a connection through a factory or something, haha. I don't even recall. Might be simpler to stick with something common. 
 
Thanks again for all the help. Only seems like I need a few things and some time to work on this. 
 
Sep 9, 2014 at 11:36 AM Post #2,479 of 10,535
It really depends on how tight you braid the cable. Do it tightly, there will be more microphonics and it'll be stiffer but do it loosely and there'll be less microphonics and more flexible.
In this case though, I did it a bit tight. It has some microphonics but it's really not bad and it's not too stiff with just enough flexibility to be used comfortably outside.

 
Ah yes. I was told not to braid too tightly. And you use it outside? How thick the total diameter of the cable if I may ask?
 
Sep 9, 2014 at 11:43 AM Post #2,480 of 10,535
Klots Any flat or round braid of your choosing will work just fine. You can also simply twist the wire if you plan on sleeving and would prefer it to look a little less bulky. It's nothing more than a style and feel preference between those options.
 
Sep 9, 2014 at 12:02 PM Post #2,481 of 10,535
eertelppa There are lots of 1/4" plug options. Many cable makers have their own that they sell as well as the brands you mentioned. You can check out Toxic cables new plugs. They are pretty sexy if you like the carbon fiber look.

You can do whatever you want at the Y-split. Some people do nothing but cross the wires tightly. After soldering it doesn't go anywhere. You can use heat shrink. Many of those same cable companies sell a Y-split. Prices range from $10-25 usually. You can use beads, shells from plugs with heat shrink. You can be as creative as you want or not at all. Here are some examples of recent splits I've used:





There really isn't any particular benefit to cotton sleeving over anything else if your wire is already insulated. Even then, its effect as a dialectic is null that way and its benefit when used as one is considered negligible by many anyway.

I recommend that most people focus on form, function, style, and proper building techniques. Those will turn out to be far more important in the daily use of the cable than boutique wire and connectors.
 
Sep 9, 2014 at 1:05 PM Post #2,482 of 10,535
Wow thanks for the great information and the pictures mean a thousand words!
 
And yes I just am not a huge fan of the plastic plug look. I don't need anything diamond/platinum/ruby coated, but something in black (what looks like glass) and just clean looking. I will do some additional research at plug options, I could not see the Toxic ones for some reason...a lot of the photos were not loading for me.  
 
When you say cross the wires tightly I guess that is just a more natural look? Just discontinue the 4 braid and transition to two separate braids. I assume this is done irregardless, just depends if one hides it via heat shrink or a more creative alternative? 
 
And I agree, for now I am fine with sleeving, braiding, putting the whole thing together and worrying more about my technique and cleanliness, than having all components spec'd out perfect and precise. 
I believe other than heat shrink, sleeving, solder wick, and a plug that I am set up. I'll get a few things on ebay and some places for a plug.
 
Hoping that soon, I can share my experiences...since I am way over due. Plus since my Grado's and Audio Technica's are out of commission both, I am itching to get at least the Grado's done. 
 
Thanks again. Lastly any advice for practicing? Should I try a dummy run on 2 feet of cable or something or just take my time on the one for my headphones?
 
Sep 9, 2014 at 1:45 PM Post #2,483 of 10,535
   
Ah yes. I was told not to braid too tightly. And you use it outside? How thick the total diameter of the cable if I may ask?

It's around 8mm. Yes, that's quite wide but the Mogami cables are 24AWG and have thick insulation so only 7 out of 8 strands can fit inside the Neutrik right angle mini plug. I'd suggest using 26AWG cables if you're planning to solder it to a 3.5mm jack.
And it doesn't bother me at all using it outside but then again, I use my T50RP as portable headphones. 
rolleyes.gif

 
Sep 9, 2014 at 3:18 PM Post #2,484 of 10,535
  It's around 8mm. Yes, that's quite wide but the Mogami cables are 24AWG and have thick insulation so only 7 out of 8 strands can fit inside the Neutrik right angle mini plug. I'd suggest using 26AWG cables if you're planning to solder it to a 3.5mm jack.
And it doesn't bother me at all using it outside but then again, I use my T50RP as portable headphones. 
rolleyes.gif

 
Oh wow. 8mm. Pretty thick imo. Welp, I'd never want to use T50RP as a portable. too big for me lol.
 
Sep 9, 2014 at 3:31 PM Post #2,485 of 10,535
As soon as some 4 pin tiny xlr's arrive I have a cable waiting for my T50rp's to make them portable as well.

 
The left jack is wired to accept a short single sided tiny xlr cable, which is why the headband cable was left in place.
They will just love these at the grocery store... Many a strange look. 
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Sep 9, 2014 at 4:03 PM Post #2,486 of 10,535
Are there any places to get wire in the UK apart from toxic cables? I've sent them a PM and they don't seem to be responding.
 
Sep 9, 2014 at 4:46 PM Post #2,487 of 10,535
  As soon as some 4 pin tiny xlr's arrive I have a cable waiting for my T50rp's to make them portable as well.

 
The left jack is wired to accept a short single sided tiny xlr cable, which is why the headband cable was left in place.
They will just love these at the grocery store... Many a strange look. 
biggrin.gif

I like it very nice.......
beerchug.gif

 
Sep 11, 2014 at 3:55 AM Post #2,489 of 10,535
I just dropped $52 on connectors....and it was only 2 of them! I've got some 5-pin LEMO chassis mounts on the way >:)

I got the plugs from a pretty awesome headfier recently. 


Nice. Make sure to post some shots of those. I've been considering ordering a pair of 2 pin LEMO plugs and jacks for a custom build. Debating if it's worth $50. They are pretty sweet.
 
Sep 11, 2014 at 5:31 AM Post #2,490 of 10,535
I have the plugs already and some right angle panel mounts and man, they are sturdy and we'll built. After holding these and checking them out any other connector I have after this is going to feel like cheap crap.
 

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