[wolfetan44]

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I don't get it.. My techflex isn't microphonic at all.

Um I don't see how techflex would be...I mean mine isn't either.  

FP said this,"Also, techflex is notoriously microphonic".

 

[Kamakahah]

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For mogami w2893 the paracord type III is good ?

The type doesn't necessarily tell you the actual size, simply it's strength. You should read closely to find the correct diameter that will fit the cable. 
The 2893 is nice if you strip it down just passed the copper shielding. You're left with the wires tightly bundled in paper similar to a tootsie pop stick and inside are cotton lengths. It slides nicely into paracord. Just make sure to put a little electrical tape on the end before going in. 
 
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Um I don't see how techflex would be...I mean mine isn't either.  
 
I would get 3:1 1/4" or 3/8" , 1/2" is huge. I personally got 1/4" and it is perfect for most applications.  It won't fit over a lot of connectors though so if you want that go with 3/8".  But with 3/8" it might not shrink completely over the cables especially if they are 26awg instead of 24.  So up to you. 

 
+1. Always 3:1 ratio for me. 3/8" works great on a lot of Neutrik connectors. Fits like a glove and reaches down snug to the sleeving or cable as long as you get 3:1 ratio. I do recommend some random size 2:1 though for little stuff like inside the connector for separate wires or holding down the sleeving a little better. They sell some mix mini boxes of 6" lengths for real cheap in 2:1 that will meet that need. 

 

[AgentXXL]

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Hi all,
 
For now I'm taking the inexpensive way out to recable my HD800s. I want to cleanly remove the stock Sennheiser 1/4" plug and re-terminate with a Switchcraft 4 pin male mini-XLR. I'll then build various adapters to use my HD800s with Switchcraft 4 pin female mini-XLRs going to 1/4" single ended, 4 pin full size male XLR, dual 3 pin male XLR, etc.
 
My first problem is removing the stock Sennheiser 1/4" plug - I've tried all sort of methods to try and 'unscrew' the housing from the plug so I can desolder the wires. Alas it seems that the stock 1/4" plug is pressed together and can't be easily disassembled, if at all. Am I correct or is there a magic method to disassemble this plug?
 
Worst case scenario I'll just cut the stock 1/4" plug off and then use another 1/4" plug from my inventory to build a single ended adaptor, discarding the Sennheiser plug. Any thoughts or help with this would be appreciated - pic below of the stock Sennheiser connector.
 
Dale

 
I'm replying to my own post just to let others know what I ended up doing... something so obvious, I feel dumb for not even considering it at first. My stock HD800 cable is now re-terminated as a modular cable and I've built my 1st adapter for it  - to use my new RSA Intruder balanced portable amp.
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/71148/diy-cable-gallery/12705#post_9738641
 
What did I do with the stock 1/4" Sennheiser connector? I chopped it and about 6" of the stock cable off, to later be re-terminated with a Switchcraft TA4FX to make it into a 1/4" modular adapter for my cable. It's such an obvious option so don't ask me why I was so frenzied about trying to disassemble the connector so I could cleanly desolder the wires and re-use it. I still get to re-use it this way, and one end of the soldering job is already done. The only minor disadvantage is that my HD800 cable is now 6" shorter than it previously was. That I can live with. 
 
And just for others looking to do the same thing - be sure to check your HD800 cable with an ohmmeter to determine which color is right or left. In my cable, red was right and green was left. This is contrary to some of the information posted elsewhere on Head-Fi and the web. Always best to check things like this anyhow.

 

[DownhomeUpstate]

Sub'd, y'all.
 
DHC is selling their Nucleotide 24 ga. OCC copper/clear teflon for $1.99. I'm thinking about braiding that stuff nekid. What's the rule of thumb for estimating how much extra length you need when you do a four wire braid? I'm shooting for a 10' finished length.
 
Thx 

 

[Kamakahah]

Sub'd, y'all.

DHC is selling their Nucleotide 24 ga. OCC copper/clear teflon for $1.99. I'm thinking about braiding that stuff nekid. What's the rule of thumb for estimating how much extra length you need when you do a four wire braid? I'm shooting for a 10' finished length.

Thx 

Depends on the AWG and how tight/loose you braid. I tend to leave myself about 6 inches for every 5 feet to compensate for the braiding and mistakes. Though that is always more than I need.

I do a "natural" feeling braid. I Try to go with how it feels while doing my best to avoid tightening or loosening too much. Usually you can feel when it is doing one or another followed by seeing it after a couple of passes.

So for 10 feet I would recommend between 6 inches and a foot depending on how confident you feel. . Should be plenty.

Edit: I should give a specific example. Just did a 5 foot cable with 26awg. Lost about 1.5inches off the length. But again, YMMV.

 

[Zashoomin]

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Sub'd, y'all.
 
DHC is selling their Nucleotide 24 ga. OCC copper/clear teflon for $1.99. I'm thinking about braiding that stuff nekid. What's the rule of thumb for estimating how much extra length you need when you do a four wire braid? I'm shooting for a 10' finished length.
 
Thx 

I would go for an extra ft per strand so a total of 44ft of wire.  

 

[FrozenPanda]

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Sub'd, y'all.
 
DHC is selling their Nucleotide 24 ga. OCC copper/clear teflon for $1.99. I'm thinking about braiding that stuff nekid. What's the rule of thumb for estimating how much extra length you need when you do a four wire braid? I'm shooting for a 10' finished length.
 
Thx 

 
By some miracle, I've actually ran out of cable to use... I think I might pick up more mogami 2893... But what is this link to this? I think this might be a good time to try some better wire when theres a good deal on it.

 

[wje]

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FP said this,"Also, techflex is notoriously microphonic".

 
I would tend to agree with FP.  After all, if I loved Techflex / PET, I wouldn't have 50 ft. of it just sitting on a shelf.  

 
Though, I do think it does work pretty well when building a pair of RCA interconnects.

 

[DownhomeUpstate]

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By some miracle, I've actually ran out of cable to use... I think I might pick up more mogami 2893... But what is this link to this? I think this might be a good time to try some better wire when theres a good deal on it.

Thanks, Kamakaha, Zashoomin & Frozen Panda!  And Panda, here's the link:
 
http://www.doublehelixcables.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=114&zenid=i44t0oohpitt2me5dg0tchtt01

 

[PXSS]

Sub'd, y'all.

DHC is selling their Nucleotide 24 ga. OCC copper/clear teflon for $1.99. I'm thinking about braiding that stuff nekid. What's the rule of thumb for estimating how much extra length you need when you do a four wire braid? I'm shooting for a 10' finished length.

Thx 

Neat! I've been meaning to get some more nucleotide but $2.75 per foot was not in my budget. Thanks for the heads up!

Btw, has anyone used MDPC-X sleeving on their cables? It looks sweet in the pictures but I'm not so sure about feel and microphonics. Any input would be appreciated!

 

[DownhomeUpstate]

No idea about sleeving yet- how about this stuff for $1/ft :

[size=1.4em] Soft black multifilament sleeve for DIY[/size]

http://www.doublehelixcables.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28
 
I've been looking for quality right-angle plugs for a BH Crack kit that's on the way (it comes with a top-mounted Neutrik 1/4" jack), but nothing in the 1/4" variety looks good to me. I found Switchcraft and Oyaide 1/8"/3.5 mm right-angle plugs, tho', and the Switchcraft unit looks really well made for not a lot of money:
 
http://www.switchcraft.com/productsummary.aspx?Parent=992 
(Markertek caries it for $7.99.)
 
Anyone have experience with good quality mini panel mount jacks? I found the Switchcraft panel-mount mini jack:
 
http://www.switchcraft.com/Drawings/EH35MM%20SERIES_CD.pdf
(Also at Markertek, for $8.29)
 
It looks like the contacts are a nickel-silver-alloy, but I can't tell for sure. Anybody have experience with this?

 

[DownhomeUpstate]

Rats. According to Wikipedia, "nickel silver" is anything but silver:
 
Nickel silver, also known as German silver,^[1] Argentan,^[1] new silver,^[1] nickel brass,^[2] albata,^[3] alpacca,^[4] or electrum,^[5] is a copper alloy with nickel and oftenzinc. The usual formulation is 60% copper, 20% nickel and 20% zinc.^[6] Nickel silver is named for its silvery appearance, but it contains no elemental silver unless plated. The name "German silver" refers to its development by 19th-century German metalworkers in imitation of the Chinese alloy known as paktong(cupronickel)^[7][8] All modern, commercially important nickel silvers (such as those standardized under ASTM B122) contain significant amounts of zinc, and are sometimes considered a subset of brass.^[9
]

 

[wolfetan44]

Where should I buy some high quality XLRs from?

 

[wolfetan44]

What awg cable is inside the HD650?

 

[PXSS]

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No idea about sleeving yet- how about this stuff for $1/ft :

[size=1.4em] Soft black multifilament sleeve for DIY[/size]

http://www.doublehelixcables.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28
 

I am going for a different look, I want to know how a MDPC-X sleeve would compare against paracord in feel and microphonics mainly, as it looks plasticky in some pictures.
I wish you could order less than 30 feet... That much will last me forever hahaha
 
 

Where should I buy some high quality XLRs from?

Partsconnexion has a large selection of XLRs. From Neutrik to the more expensive Xhadow and NeoTech.
AVOutlet can get you Viablue XLRs too if you contact them directly.
I like using VALabs from ebay due to their looks and reasonable price.