DIY Cable Gallery!!
Dec 9, 2012 at 3:40 AM Post #10,696 of 16,309
Just start anew. It's obvious from the picture the wires are under stress. The whole cable will be more stiff than if the individual wires are not twisted. Just take your time and carefully twist the wires together so they have no stress in them. As FraGGler said, the wires will let you know if they like it or not.
 
"twisting" wires is a misleading term. We really bend them around each others. Take a look at this video, which shows a machine that makes wire rope out of individual steel wires:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQvPp3BNmWg
 
On the large rotary machine is mounted all the spools containing the wires. If you pay attention, you will notice that as the machine spins, the individual spools always stays in the same orientation. They stay horizontal. This is done so that the individual wires are not twisted. Wires are like springs, if you twist them they will store energy and stay under stress. It makes the whole cable less flexible, more prone to failure and more dangerous when it fails.
 
The same technique is used by cable manufacturers to make electrical cables.
 


 
Perfect, thanks! It was definitely the tension that was causing a problem. I just did it by hand and it turned out great. I spent hours on the litz braid and skimped out on the twisted pairs...
 
Not sure how the guy on youtube got such a perfect twist with his drill though. 
 
Dec 9, 2012 at 8:57 AM Post #10,698 of 16,309
Quote:
Crap I did what this guy did at 1:00 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6ZecDs0GI4

 
Quote:
Not sure how the guy on youtube got such a perfect twist with his drill though. 

 
He's using heavier, stiffer wire than you want to use in a headphone cable so it tends to stay in whatever position it's put. And, to be honest, it doesn't look all that perfect; you can watch the white wire kinking and flopping when it's not under tension. The final product looks a little nicer because sleeving can cover a myriad of flaws.
 
The straight twists and braids we're describing can help with skin effect; when the surfaces of the conductors always face outward or inward and the cable is a straightforward spiral, it's not a litz twist or braid, so you're effectively throwing away some potential benefit for the sake of rushing the job.
 
Dec 9, 2012 at 10:46 AM Post #10,699 of 16,309
I just got a HD600 and am thinking of making myself a cable!
I know there's this controversy about if cable matters or not, but I'd like to build a cable that focuses on improving sound of the HD 600's(more detail, more treble, more clarity) and see if I can tell the difference myself in a blind test =D
 
I know next to nothing about electronics, but I'm trying to learn as fast as I can.  
I've read that moon audio makes a really good silver cable for the hd600's, but those are $300 lol.
 
So far I know that I need:
wire
teflon casing
plug
sennheiser 2-pronged headphone plugs.
 
I've seen some Y splitters used here as well.  Do I need that as well?
 
Lastly, is silver the way to go for a wire for the senn's?
as long as everything stays under 100 (preferably 75), it's all good.
 
Dec 9, 2012 at 11:11 AM Post #10,700 of 16,309
Quote:
I just got a HD600 and am thinking of making myself a cable!
I know there's this controversy about if cable matters or not, but I'd like to build a cable that focuses on improving sound of the HD 600's(more detail, more treble, more clarity) and see if I can tell the difference myself in a blind test =D
 
I know next to nothing about electronics, but I'm trying to learn as fast as I can.  
I've read that moon audio makes a really good silver cable for the hd600's, but those are $300 lol.
 
So far I know that I need:
wire
teflon casing
plug
sennheiser 2-pronged headphone plugs.
 
I've seen some Y splitters used here as well.  Do I need that as well?
 
Lastly, is silver the way to go for a wire for the senn's?
as long as everything stays under 100 (preferably 75), it's all good.


Just a tip, the cardas senn connectors are just a nightmare to work with.  Cheap feeling/looking plastic, and it can be tough to get in and solder the rhodium pins without melting the plastic.
 
Dec 9, 2012 at 11:19 AM Post #10,701 of 16,309
Quote:
Just start anew. It's obvious from the picture the wires are under stress. The whole cable will be more stiff than if the individual wires are not twisted. Just take your time and carefully twist the wires together so they have no stress in them. As FraGGler said, the wires will let you know if they like it or not.
 
"twisting" wires is a misleading term. We really bend them around each others. Take a look at this video, which shows a machine that makes wire rope out of individual steel wires:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQvPp3BNmWg
 
On the large rotary machine is mounted all the spools containing the wires. If you pay attention, you will notice that as the machine spins, the individual spools always stays in the same orientation. They stay horizontal. This is done so that the individual wires are not twisted. Wires are like springs, if you twist them they will store energy and stay under stress. It makes the whole cable less flexible, more prone to failure and more dangerous when it fails.
 
The same technique is used by cable manufacturers to make electrical cables.

Well put (better than I did).  
 
PS Still love your SS and want to build one every time I see your avatar.  
 
Dec 9, 2012 at 11:34 AM Post #10,702 of 16,309
Quote:
Just a tip, the cardas senn connectors are just a nightmare to work with.  Cheap feeling/looking plastic, and it can be tough to get in and solder the rhodium pins without melting the plastic.

are there any other options for senn connectors?
I just found a really good thread on how to actually make the cables.
 
So my big question is, what type of wire should i use?
and am I right in saying that i'll need 4X the length of wire of how long I want my actual finished cable to be?
 
Dec 9, 2012 at 11:46 AM Post #10,703 of 16,309
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/25-feet-24-AWG-Shielded-Silver-Plated-Wire-4-Twisted-Kynar-/230849948464?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item35bfbaab30#ht_500wt_1414
how;s this for a wire?
 
Dec 9, 2012 at 12:18 PM Post #10,704 of 16,309
Quote:
Does Techflex work better for sleeving? The one i use is like hard plastic wires, whenever they rub one another it makes noise that my left ear can hear (grinding sounds).
 

 
The techflex MONO-filament will be just about the same as what you have, it is very noisy - I made the same mistake with the cable for my old K702. 
 
The techflex MULTI-filament is much quieter. Likewise paracord is very quiet. 
 
Dec 9, 2012 at 2:45 PM Post #10,705 of 16,309
Quote:
I just got a HD600 and am thinking of making myself a cable!
I know there's this controversy about if cable matters or not, but I'd like to build a cable that focuses on improving sound of the HD 600's(more detail, more treble, more clarity) and see if I can tell the difference myself in a blind test =D
 
I know next to nothing about electronics, but I'm trying to learn as fast as I can.  
I've read that moon audio makes a really good silver cable for the hd600's, but those are $300 lol.
 
So far I know that I need:
wire
teflon casing
plug
sennheiser 2-pronged headphone plugs.
 
I've seen some Y splitters used here as well.  Do I need that as well?
 
Lastly, is silver the way to go for a wire for the senn's?
as long as everything stays under 100 (preferably 75), it's all good.

 
Keep your expectations low with improving the sound of your headphones with wire.  Any improvement will be very subtle.  A better source or amp will be more dramatic (and cost more of course). The Kapton SPC doesn't look like a good idea.  The normal SPC in teflon is stiff and prone to mechanical noise as is.  I can't imagine a layer of Kapton helping.  Also military spec SPC is probably going to be a waste of time for you if you are trying to get improvements in sound.  
 
As much as I am obsessed with cables and use boutique wire in my builds, I can barely tell an audible difference between my cables.  Your best bet for a positive change is to use UPOCC copper or pure silver.  Solid core silver of good purity can be purchased for a little over $2 a foot as can very high purity UPOCC copper.  If you step to stranded pure silver, it will be out of your price range.  Solid silver is usually sold bare, so you will need teflon tubing.  Most other wires will come in a polyethylene dialectric which is better for building headphone cables that are to remain flexible.
 
Y splitters don't impact the sound :)  Use some heatshrink for a cheap and easy solution.
 
The Senn plugs are not easy to deal with, as the plastic melts quite easily.  Use as much flux as possible to prep the rhodium.  Try to get some solder to flow onto the rhodium before attaching the wire.  If you heat the both at the same time, you will likely melt your wire dialectic back unless it is teflon.  Watch the angles of your iron so you aren't touching the sides of the connector.  You can get plugs for $6.50 a pair from Lunashops.  Get a couple sets in case you melt your first attempt.
 
Good luck!
 
Dec 9, 2012 at 4:45 PM Post #10,706 of 16,309
Just wanted to say that I had some 28 AWG silver plated copper wire, I believe 7 strand, from navships that I recabled my KSC75's with a while back.  The microphonics were explosive.  I couldn't move, I couldn't do ANYTHING without hearing something.  I had already ordered some paracord, both type I and type III for aesthetics, but I was told it *may* help.  It finally got here.  I am astounded by the difference it made.  I actually have to work now to generate microphonics from the same exact cable.  Couldn't be happier.
 
 

 
Forgive the terrible image quality.  I have an old phone with a custom rom, so the already bad camera is made even worse.
 
Thanks for the ideas and advice.
 
Dec 9, 2012 at 5:01 PM Post #10,707 of 16,309
Quote:
 
Keep your expectations low with improving the sound of your headphones with wire.  Any improvement will be very subtle.  A better source or amp will be more dramatic (and cost more of course). The Kapton SPC doesn't look like a good idea.  The normal SPC in teflon is stiff and prone to mechanical noise as is.  I can't imagine a layer of Kapton helping.  Also military spec SPC is probably going to be a waste of time for you if you are trying to get improvements in sound.  
 
As much as I am obsessed with cables and use boutique wire in my builds, I can barely tell an audible difference between my cables.  Your best bet for a positive change is to use UPOCC copper or pure silver.  Solid core silver of good purity can be purchased for a little over $2 a foot as can very high purity UPOCC copper.  If you step to stranded pure silver, it will be out of your price range.  Solid silver is usually sold bare, so you will need teflon tubing.  Most other wires will come in a polyethylene dialectric which is better for building headphone cables that are to remain flexible.
 
Y splitters don't impact the sound :)  Use some heatshrink for a cheap and easy solution.
 
The Senn plugs are not easy to deal with, as the plastic melts quite easily.  Use as much flux as possible to prep the rhodium.  Try to get some solder to flow onto the rhodium before attaching the wire.  If you heat the both at the same time, you will likely melt your wire dialectic back unless it is teflon.  Watch the angles of your iron so you aren't touching the sides of the connector.  You can get plugs for $6.50 a pair from Lunashops.  Get a couple sets in case you melt your first attempt.
 
Good luck!

Wow thank you so much!
I think for now, I'll just build a solid cheap wire using copper.
So any high purity UPOCC would work?
I saw Moon Audio had some, but are there any other suggestions?
Lastly, is there a reason why all the senn plugs I've seen are rhodium and not gold plated?
 
Dec 9, 2012 at 8:26 PM Post #10,708 of 16,309
Quote:
 
Keep your expectations low with improving the sound of your headphones with wire.  Any improvement will be very subtle.  A better source or amp will be more dramatic (and cost more of course). The Kapton SPC doesn't look like a good idea.  The normal SPC in teflon is stiff and prone to mechanical noise as is.  I can't imagine a layer of Kapton helping.  Also military spec SPC is probably going to be a waste of time for you if you are trying to get improvements in sound.  
 
As much as I am obsessed with cables and use boutique wire in my builds, I can barely tell an audible difference between my cables.  Your best bet for a positive change is to use UPOCC copper or pure silver.  Solid core silver of good purity can be purchased for a little over $2 a foot as can very high purity UPOCC copper.  If you step to stranded pure silver, it will be out of your price range.  Solid silver is usually sold bare, so you will need teflon tubing.  Most other wires will come in a polyethylene dialectric which is better for building headphone cables that are to remain flexible.
 
Y splitters don't impact the sound :)  Use some heatshrink for a cheap and easy solution.
 
The Senn plugs are not easy to deal with, as the plastic melts quite easily.  Use as much flux as possible to prep the rhodium.  Try to get some solder to flow onto the rhodium before attaching the wire.  If you heat the both at the same time, you will likely melt your wire dialectic back unless it is teflon.  Watch the angles of your iron so you aren't touching the sides of the connector.  You can get plugs for $6.50 a pair from Lunashops.  Get a couple sets in case you melt your first attempt.
 
Good luck!

 
The Senn plugs can be a nightmare to work with, especially if you're using thicker than 26-28awg wire as the housing so damn narrow.  They are also really hard to get solder to stick inside their cups, and you have to strike a good balance of heating the solder/wire/connector up without melting the nearby plastic housing.  
 
Dec 9, 2012 at 8:44 PM Post #10,709 of 16,309
I just got a HD600 and am thinking of making myself a cable!
I know there's this controversy about if cable matters or not, but I'd like to build a cable that focuses on improving sound of the HD 600's(more detail, more treble, more clarity) and see if I can tell the difference myself in a blind test =D

I know next to nothing about electronics, but I'm trying to learn as fast as I can.  
I've read that moon audio makes a really good silver cable for the hd600's, but those are $300 lol.

So far I know that I need:
wire
teflon casing
plug
sennheiser 2-pronged headphone plugs.

I've seen some Y splitters used here as well.  Do I need that as well?

Lastly, is silver the way to go for a wire for the senn's?
as long as everything stays under 100 (preferably 75), it's all good.


I got them cheap. Rhodium or Gold Plating.
http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=1854
http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=1853

Works the same as the moon audio one.
 
Dec 9, 2012 at 9:01 PM Post #10,710 of 16,309
Quote:
 
The Senn plugs can be a nightmare to work with, especially if you're using thicker than 26-28awg wire as the housing so damn narrow.  They are also really hard to get solder to stick inside their cups, and you have to strike a good balance of heating the solder/wire/connector up without melting the nearby plastic housing.  

 
Lol sounds like hell.
I might ask my dad to do that part since he's a surgeon, and supposedly they have steady hands =P
 

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