[electronicmaji]

Is it possible to heat scissors in a flame to cut techflex if you don't have a proper professional heat knife?

 

[apollinaris]

Quote:

Is it possible to heat scissors in a flame to cut techflex if you don't have a proper professional heat knife?

Unless you don't mind damaging the scissors (as they can also burn/melt the plastic holders), then I don't see any issue with that. You can also cut techflex with normal (cold) scissors and then melt a bit the edges of the sleeve with lighter, to stop it from un-braiding.
 
On a different matter, does anybody know how to take out hot glue from Cardas connectors (for Sennheiser)? I found this video but it only deals with hot glue being on a flat surface, and not in cavities such as Cardas connectors. Any advice is appreciated!

 

[DefQon]

Been a while, just realised I haven't posted any pics of my balanced LCD2 Piccolino cable I made myself.
 





 
Sorry for the crappy quality pictures, looks a lot better in person.
 
More to come,
 
All the best.

 

[garcsa]

Hi, let me show you the result of my first ever (!) recabling. Meelec CC51, TFT silver plated OFC - 0.12mm2 (26 AWG) , and white Pailiccs.
Recabled because of mic problem.

 

[WayTooCrazy]

Quote:

Hi, let me show you the result of my first ever (!) recabling. Meelec CC51, TFT silver plated OFC - 0.12mm2 (26 AWG) , and white Pailiccs.
Recabled because of mic problem.
 
 
 

Nice Job!

 

[daigo]

Nice job on that braiding, garcsa

 

[infam0ussteven]

Hey guys, I'm planning on sleeving my TF10 cable and was wondering what size of sleeving and I should get. I'd appreciate some links if possible. I know I probably shouldn't ask this here but I felt like it was unnecessary to create a new thread just to ask this simple question. Thank you!

 

[KimLaroux]

...

On a different matter, does anybody know how to take out hot glue from Cardas connectors (for Sennheiser)? I found this video but it only deals with hot glue being on a flat surface, and not in cavities such as Cardas connectors. Any advice is appreciated!

Just use long nose pliers and tear the glue out pieces by pieces. If this is too hard on the connector pins, cut it in smaller pieces using a short knife or flush cutter. With some patience, you should be able to remove all of it without destroying the connector.

 

[cogsand gears]

Quote:

Been a while, just realised I haven't posted any pics of my balanced LCD2 Piccolino cable I made myself.
 
Sorry for the crappy quality pictures, looks a lot better in person.
 
More to come,
 
All the best.

Beautiful! Expensive.... and a real PITA to work with. How long did it take you to strip the cable, and hows the SQ?

 

[cogsand gears]

Quote:

 
On a different matter, does anybody know how to take out hot glue from Cardas connectors (for Sennheiser)? I found this video but it only deals with hot glue being on a flat surface, and not in cavities such as Cardas connectors. Any advice is appreciated!

 
I melted the hot glue out of a Oyaide right angled jack by holding it in one of those 'heping hands' devices and setting up a hot air gun. You may still have to scrape some of it out, but it gets the bulk of it out.

 

[DefQon]

Quote:

Beautiful! Expensive.... and a real PITA to work with. How long did it take you to strip the cable, and hows the SQ?

 
Thanks. Took me about 2 days to get the cable constructed. 1 day's worth of planning and researching how other's have constructed their cables (not many info to begin with). Didn't want to stuff up an expensive cable so had to do some planning rather than jumping the gun.
 
Stripping the cable was the main PITA process. The outer rubbery insulation used outside of the two cable's inside was the longest of the process, had to use a sharp thick Stanley knife and carefully spliced it. Took about few hours to strip the insulation off and get the ground shield separated from the inner core which carries the signal. Not a professionally constructed cable such as ones by Kabelmeister or other aftermarket companies, but I'm happy with the way I've constructed it, just one minor problem now is that the Left cable is about half a cm longer then the right channel cable, need to rework it.
 
As with the sound. I don't believe in night and day differences some claim with cables, but with this cable the difference is noticable from a few DHC 3 strand 3 braid balanced cables I've made and a few ALO 8 strand cables I've compared it with, sounding very liquidy and mellow the clarity of pure silver and the warmer side with bass presence from the gold injection acting like copper. No microphonics and stiffness with the cable and ergonically good and flexible.
 
I do plan to buy a roll of 25 meter's worth or Piccolino one day......only time can tell, might use it for my speakers since my interest has moved onto them from head-gear.

 

[ambchang]

Quote:

Hey guys, I'm planning on sleeving my TF10 cable and was wondering what size of sleeving and I should get. I'd appreciate some links if possible. I know I probably shouldn't ask this here but I felt like it was unnecessary to create a new thread just to ask this simple question. Thank you!

Depends on what awg wire you are using:
 
Use this page for conversion.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-d_731.html

 

[cogsand gears]

Quote:

 
Thanks. Took me about 2 days to get the cable constructed. 1 day's worth of planning and researching how other's have constructed their cables (not many info to begin with). Didn't want to stuff up an expensive cable so had to do some planning rather than jumping the gun.
 
Stripping the cable was the main PITA process. The outer rubbery insulation used outside of the two cable's inside was the longest of the process, had to use a sharp thick Stanley knife and carefully spliced it. Took about few hours to strip the insulation off and get the ground shield separated from the inner core which carries the signal. Not a professionally constructed cable such as ones by Kabelmeister or other aftermarket companies, but I'm happy with the way I've constructed it, just one minor problem now is that the Left cable is about half a cm longer then the right channel cable, need to rework it.
 
As with the sound. I don't believe in night and day differences some claim with cables, but with this cable the difference is noticable from a few DHC 3 strand 3 braid balanced cables I've made and a few ALO 8 strand cables I've compared it with, sounding very liquidy and mellow the clarity of pure silver and the warmer side with bass presence from the gold injection acting like copper. No microphonics and stiffness with the cable and ergonically good and flexible.
 
I do plan to buy a roll of 25 meter's worth or Piccolino one day......only time can tell, might use it for my speakers since my interest has moved onto them from head-gear.

I didnt find the outside too bad to strip. I used a sharp scalpel and very light strokes over and over till I was through. It was the Kapton insulation around the centre conductor that really got me. Its so tough, but pretty thin. Cutting into the centre strands is too easy when trying to go through that kapton layer!
 
When you pick up that roll you can always donate a little my way ;D Im not above charity!

 

[infam0ussteven]

Quote:

Depends on what awg wire you are using:
 
Use this page for conversion.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-d_731.html

Thank you!

 

[ardgedee]

The conversion chart will be of limited value for figuring out the sleeving you need, since your wire will (presumably) be insulated, which adds to the overall diameter.

The only way to be sure is to either know the manufacturer's spec for overall diameter or to measure it yourself, or to have some samples of wire and sleeving handy and experiment.