[Kamakahah]

I just put a little piece of electrical tape on the end before sleeving is what I use. Slides easy, and can stretch it to be thin so you don't add much to the overall circumference.

Once you get the rhythm down of "worming" the braided cable through, it goes pretty fast. FraGGleR described it well.

No doubt it takes patience though. I usually watch some anime or a movie while doing it to pass the time faster.

 

[audiofreakie]

Quote:

Very nice.  Did you have to mess with anything to get them to fit into that small hole that fostex calls a connection?  Also what plug did you use. 

 
I used oyaide 3.5 plug, one straight and the other one angled.
The straight jack fit perfectly, but the angled one must be little tricky.
I had to grind the jack about 3 mm.
see picture below.
 

 

[wolfetan44]

Quote:

Quote:

Very nice.  Did you have to mess with anything to get them to fit into that small hole that fostex calls a connection?  Also what plug did you use. 

 
I used oyaide 3.5 plug, one straight and the other one angled.
The straight jack fit perfectly, but the angled one must be little tricky.
I had to grind the jack about 3 mm.
see picture below.
 

Spoiler: Warning%3A%20Spoiler!

 

Did you use a dremel?

 

[Marleybob217]

Hi guys, I want to build a custom cable for cIEMs I should be getting soon. I found the interconnects on ebay, but I'm still searching for the actual cable.
 
I'm looking for thin, flexible 2 and 3 channel cables, preferably not twisted. Does someone have any idea where I can find these?

 

[Omark12]

Quote:

 
Type-III 550-lb. Paracord rules, it is better-looking, more resistant to fraying than Techflex multifilament, and is even more resistant to heat as well.  Only good for 4x24awg cables or smaller, though.
How are you doing your braids that you find it difficult?  It shouldn't be troublesome, just time-consuming.
Some of my heatshrink is adhesive-lined, some not, so I improvise with a thin coat of hot glue for the adhesiveless heatshrink.
 
It's better to use painter's tape instead of heatshrink to help yourself sleeve cable.
 
 
 
 
Gilded Little Whipper-snapper
or
CuAgulator

I tried 550 paracord that I got from Michael's on my 4x24 AWG wire, it was too small. Where do you get your paracord? And please go into detail about using hot glue and heatshrink together. And how do you keep the ends of the paracord together on the wire; like so it doesn't slide up and down the wire and unravel; i used clear tape and heatshrink, but I feel I could do better. 

 

[Omark12]

Quote:

Hi guys, I want to build a custom cable for cIEMs I should be getting soon. I found the interconnects on ebay, but I'm still searching for the actual cable.
 
I'm looking for thin, flexible 2 and 3 channel cables, preferably not twisted. Does someone have any idea where I can find these?

To me, it sounds like #26 AWG would be the thickest you go, maybe #28 AWG is better. And are you looking for fancy shmancy 7N UP-OCC cryo-treated copper/SPC or normal OFC/SPOFC?

 

[Marleybob217]

Quote:

To me, it sounds like #26 AWG would be the thickest you go, maybe #28 AWG is better. And are you looking for fancy shmancy 7N UP-OCC cryo-treated copper/SPC or normal OFC/SPOFC?

Thanks for the reply! I think regular OFC would be fine! The rubber protecting the cable is more important since it will bend a lot on a daily base.

 

[Kamakahah]

Quote:

Hi guys, I want to build a custom cable for cIEMs I should be getting soon. I found the interconnects on ebay, but I'm still searching for the actual cable.
 
I'm looking for thin, flexible 2 and 3 channel cables, preferably not twisted. Does someone have any idea where I can find these?

 
I know it isn't what you posted, but it does meet the thin, flexible, and not twisted... 
 
You could go with http://www.plussoundaudio.com/diy/wires.html . Yeah it's fancy cable, but the one I like is the "26 AWG 7N Pure UP-OCC Cryo stranded copper custom wire" because it is made up of 75 strands. I've ordered some and it is very flexible and durable because of the 75 strands. The insulation also comes in multiple different colors so you can get a pretty cool custom look without having to deal with sleeving.
 
I usually go for wire that is a bit cheaper, but when I order a pair of CIEMs (hopefully in the next 3 weeks), I'll likely be using some of this to build a custom cable. 

 

[Marleybob217]

Quote:

 
I know it isn't what you posted, but it does meet the thin, flexible, and not twisted... 
 
You could go with http://www.plussoundaudio.com/diy/wires.html . Yeah it's fancy cable, but the one I like is the "26 AWG 7N Pure UP-OCC Cryo stranded copper custom wire" because it is made up of 75 strands. I've ordered some and it is very flexible and durable because of the 75 strands. The insulation also comes in multiple different colors so you can get a pretty cool custom look without having to deal with sleeving.
 
I usually go for wire that is a bit cheaper, but when I order a pair of CIEMs (hopefully in the next 3 weeks), I'll likely be using some of this to build a custom cable. 

Hmm thanks, apart from being single channel cables they fit the bill. The only downside being they have to be braided, or 'grouped' in some other way. How do you plan to build a cable with these?

 

[Omark12]

Quote:

Thanks for the reply! I think regular OFC would be fine! The rubber protecting the cable is more important since it will bend a lot on a daily base.

The way I see it, you have two options. You could get 25 feet of #28 AWG 19 strand SPOFC from navships on eBay or you could get the fancy  #28 AWG copper only wire that plussound sells on eBay. To be honest, altough I don't believe fancy wire makes much of a difference, I'd go for the fancy wire  just for convenience and availabilitity's sake; where else are you going to find #28 AWG stranded copper only wire; You may not like the bright sound of SPOFC and also it'd be less flexible.

 

[glunteer]

have a shop to import or Neutrik or Pailiccs with free shipping?

 

[audiofreakie]

Did you use a dremel?

Yups, dremel/mini grinder machine.
Used the cutter then iron brush for finishing.

 

[Kamakahah]

Quote:

Hmm thanks, apart from being single channel cables they fit the bill. The only downside being they have to be braided, or 'grouped' in some other way. How do you plan to build a cable with these?

I plan on twisting each pair of conductors together until the Y-split when they will become a 4-strand round braid. The heatshrink on the connector end and Y-split, as well as the soldered connections will be enough to hold the twist in place. If for some reason that doesn't work out(but it will), then I can add small pieces of clear heatshrink along the twist. 
Pretty much the same way many CIEM cables are made by all the usual names. Just take a look at a few companies that make the cables and you'll get the picture. 
 
Or I could just sleeve the whole thing and not worry about it at all. Though even sleeving I would still do it the same before adding the sleeve. That's just me though. 
Quote:

The way I see it, you have two options. You could get 25 feet of #28 AWG 19 strand SPOFC from navships on eBay or you could get the fancy  #28 AWG copper only wire that plussound sells on eBay. To be honest, altough I don't believe fancy wire makes much of a difference, I'd go for the fancy wire  just for convenience and availabilitity's sake; where else are you going to find #28 AWG stranded copper only wire; You may not like the bright sound of SPOFC and also it'd be less flexible.

Basically what Omark12 said. 
 
The Navships will be super cheap, no doubt. I've actually done a recable of some Monoprice 9927s with it just for the lawlz and practice soldering to drivers. I've also used it to practice more difficult braids first. The problem is that it isn't the most comfortable or flexible wire. It's fairly stiff and the insulation is anything but soft. It has a very "wirey" feel to it and memory prone. It just doesn't feel that comfortable over the ear in particular. I think as long as you have something like sleeving, and ear guide, or maybe clear heatshrink around the part that will touch over your ear, it'll be fine.  YMMV of course. 

 

[Mad Max]

Quote:

I tried 550 paracord that I got from Michael's on my 4x24 AWG wire, it was too small. Where do you get your paracord? And please go into detail about using hot glue and heatshrink together. And how do you keep the ends of the paracord together on the wire; like so it doesn't slide up and down the wire and unravel; i used clear tape and heatshrink, but I feel I could do better. 

 
fleaBay is my source.  There's plenty of US seller selling mil-spec type III.
 
For hot glue and heatshrink, I just add a thin coat of glue to the surfaces that will be covered by the heatshrink.  The hot heatshrink will remelt the glue and give you serious grip.  If you are doing heatshrink strain-relief on a connector, don't add glue all the way to the end, otherwise the heatshrink will not be very flexible where the cable exits it.

 

[DMinor]

Where and what normally do you guys buy the wires used for headphone recabling? Some info is greatly appreciated.