[Slade01]

You 'da man! But get the adapter from Deyan. I don't think I've yet seen a basing diagram that looks like this spaghetti for the A2293:

@SHIMACM and company - ok, so all the pieces are in motion. Just have to wait for things to come in (about 3-4 weeks) and we can get the A2293 party (re)started then.

 

[bcowen]

I'll see what he can do for pricing. Lol. if you can find anything on this tube, you're lucky. I can't barely find anything beyond that 1 pager datasheet that is mostly on the interwebs, which is sparse at best let alone a full pinout diagram.

Yeah, I had about the same luck.

https://tubedata.tubes.se/sheets/084/a/A2293.pdf

Found this on DIY Audio...

 

[Slade01]

Yeah, I had about the same luck.

https://tubedata.tubes.se/sheets/084/a/A2293.pdf

Found this on DIY Audio...

Well, I would assume if xulingmrs can make them en masse on ebay... Deyan probably didnt even flinch or blink when I asked if he could make the adapter, the dude just knows and just said "Yes I can do that...". Genius.

 

[Deceneu808]

Still waiting on the Mullards like

I pulled the trigger on some HD600. They do sound different from 660s on the tube. I would say a little brighter and vocals, god damn it. So good !

 

[therremans]

A smaller and a more tactile toggle switch, has a more resistant click/throw to it.

 

[JKDJedi]

A smaller and a more tactile toggle switch, has a more resistant click/throw to it.

Is the top one the original switch? And that red glow.... sick.

 

[therremans]

Is the top one the original switch? And that red glow.... sick.

Yeah, the top is the original. The original wire used was decently thick stranded copper, so I kept it. I just applied fresh high grade heat shrink to the entire line.

 

[SHIMACM]

[QUOTE = "therremans, post: 15957630, membro: 537425"]
Sim, o topo é o original. O fio original usado era de cobre trançado decentemente grosso, então eu o mantive. Acabei de aplicar termorretrátil de alta qualidade em toda a linha.
[/CITAR]

I opened my Darkvoice to do the MOD to disconnect the preamp output. Only when opening, I found that there is no wire connecting in the place that I would have to disconnect. Is there anything else to be done here?

 

[therremans]

[QUOTE = "therremans, post: 15957630, membro: 537425"]
Sim, o topo é o original. O fio original usado era de cobre trançado decentemente grosso, então eu o mantive. Acabei de aplicar termorretrátil de alta qualidade em toda a linha.
[/CITAR]



I opened my Darkvoice to do the MOD to disconnect the preamp output. Only when opening, I found that there is no wire connecting in the place that I would have to disconnect. Is there anything else to be done here?

The output wire runs to the output circuit in the middle of the amp. The input wire runs all the way up front to the volume pot.

Your photo is very dark but I think I see the black ground wire connected here. I circled it.

Unsolder this


Or cut this:

You may also pull off that hot glue and unsolder all three.. the output (L/R) + the black ground.

 

[SHIMACM]

The output wire runs to the output circuit in the middle of the amp. The input wire runs all the way up front to the volume pot.

Your photo is very dark but I think I see the black ground wire connected here. I circled it.

Unsolder this


Or cut this:

You may also pull off that hot glue and unsolder all three.. the output (L/R) + the black ground.

Thanks for the answer. Just a clarification. Do I have to cut only where you circled or did you also mark an "x"?

 

[therremans]

Thanks for the answer. Just a clarification. Do I have to cut only where you circled or did you also mark an "x"?

Cut the X, or cut/unsolder circle wire.

the X should contain all three wires.

send me some more photos if you want clarification as it was pretty dark. But if you follow the wires, you will be confirmed which is output and which is input

 

[SHIMACM]

Cut the X, or cut/unsolder circle wire.

the X should contain all three wires.

send me some more photos if you want clarification as it was pretty dark. But if you follow the wires, you will be confirmed which is output and which is input

If I unsolder in the place where you circulated it is a very simple operation. In the place where the X is, I would have to release the glue and more wires to cut. Does desoldering only at the location of the circle achieve the objective?

 

[therremans]

If I unsolder in the place where you circulated it is a very simple operation. In the place where the X is, I would have to release the glue and more wires to cut. Does desoldering only at the location of the circle achieve the objective?

Yes, easiest and reversible. Unsolder the circle (black ground wire for output circuit)

 

[SHIMACM]

Yes, easiest and reversible. Unsolder the circle (black ground wire for output circuit)

Wonderful! Well, I'm not at home now, when I arrive I will do the procedure and comment on the result with you. Thanks!

 

[therremans]

Wonderful! Well, I'm not at home now, when I arrive I will do the procedure and comment on the result with you. Thanks!

I noticed yours came with a braided two conductor wire. Mine came with a cheap three conductor gray insulated wire (red, white and black). That I’m replacing with a short section of Mogami 4 conductor cable.

IMO, You might as well remove that hot glue and unsolder all three. Heat it a little with the iron and it will pull right off. It remains an easy reversible operation.