Crack;Bottlehead OTL
Aug 16, 2013 at 12:52 PM Post #2,371 of 12,347
Or all three of these for less than $10 total...

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-3-4-quarter-inch-bent-needle-nose-pliers-40698.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-wire-stripper-with-cutter-98410.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-half-inch-diagonal-cutters-40695.html
 
Aug 16, 2013 at 1:58 PM Post #2,373 of 12,347
1. That soldering station is variable power, which is not the same thing as temperature controlled. You really want a temperature controlled soldering station, believe me. It doesn't need to be digital (and in fact, most digital displays don't really do anything all that useful). I highly recommend the Weller WES51. It's not the cheapest, not the most expensive, but it is very common, which means replacement tips in various sizes are fairly common and not that expensive. It is also well-made and very comfortable to use. I would definitely recommend spending a bit extra on your soldering station. You will use it for a lot of things going forward, not just this project. 2. You need a digital multimeter. You're not just checking the values of the resistors you install, you also need to check resistances and voltages at various places in the amp after completing your build. There are very cheap multimeters available. I've had $5 ones that were suprisingly accurate. But they also have significant limitations, including short, non-replaceable test leads, no auto-ranging function, and unergonomic leads that can make it more difficult to safely test voltages. I bought this multimeter and I've been absolutely stunned at how good it is for the price. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050LVFS0/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 3. As for shear cutters, I have these and love them. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IBU1JQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought these after a host of others that were all crappy for one reason or another. These just work, and work well. Best regards, Adam
 
Aug 16, 2013 at 2:33 PM Post #2,374 of 12,347
Oh, and I also recommend getting some solder braid (also called desolder wick). This is very useful if you make a mistake. Since it wasn't immediately clear to me how you use it, here is what you do: (1) pull about 6" of braid out of the dispenser. Pick a spot that is 2-3" from the tip of the braid. Place this spot on the solder joint you want to desolder. Place the tip of the soldering iron against the solder braid, on the opposite side of the solder braid from the solder joint you want to remove. Let your iron tip heat the braid and the solder joint for 5-10 seconds, then slowly pull on the solder braid from the side closest to the spool. Keep your iron tip stationary, directly over the solder joint you're removing. The solder braid will get pulled between your iron tip and the solder joint. The tip will keep the solder melted, and it will get absorbed by the solder braid. You need to keep the solder braid moving, because it quickly saturates with the melted solder. If you still have extra solder on the joint you want to remove, then trim the piece of the solder braid with the solder in it, and repeat the process. In my experience, when doing point-to-point wiring, solder braid works better than a solder sucker or desoldering pump. Here is a link to what you need: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O9VX6O/ref=biss_dp_t_asn For $3, you are better off having it ready when you need it. Best regards, Adam
 
Aug 16, 2013 at 4:21 PM Post #2,375 of 12,347
The variable temperature definately helps. If you make a mistake I find that a higher temperature make it a lot easier to desolder stuff. Also if you have different kinds of solder you will need different temperatures and what not so it will help. Yes get some solder wick and strippers, solder, wood glue, diagonal cutters, definately a multimeter, and needle nose pliers. Its a lot of stuff upfront but if you get quality tools they will last you a lifetime and maybe even longer so its all an investment.
 
Aug 16, 2013 at 4:32 PM Post #2,376 of 12,347
Thanks guys!  I just finished buying everything.  I don't think I've been this excited in a while.  I bought the JDS Labs ODAC to go with it (not sure if it was the right choice or not) and it shipped almost right away, so that was great.  Headphones should be here Monday.  Gear by Wednesday.  Not sure on the Crack.
 
So hoping that the Bottlehead Crack isn't backlogged.  I'm already ready to put this together
 
Aug 16, 2013 at 5:03 PM Post #2,378 of 12,347
I purchased the HD 650's, as I like a warmer/fuller sound and heard that these offer that.  These are also the ones I've always wanted, but never have been able to afford until recently.  I also bought the soldering iron you recommended (Weller WES51) as well as those wire cutters.
 
Aug 16, 2013 at 5:05 PM Post #2,379 of 12,347
Well, I have a hard time arguing with your choices! :wink: If you are going to go with HD650s, I think the Crack is the best amp for them I've ever heard. Enjoy, you will have a great setup when you're done!
 
Aug 16, 2013 at 6:07 PM Post #2,380 of 12,347
HD650, Crack... just add a Schiit Modi DAC and you'll have my rig 
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In case you were still looking at DACs, the Modi is an excellent value at $99.
 
Aug 17, 2013 at 4:36 AM Post #2,382 of 12,347

Or bifrost and you'll have my to be setup
biggrin.gif

I'm using the Modi with my Crack and HD650. Have you ever heard the Modi? If so, how would you compare it to your Bifrost? I'm planning to upgrade the DAC to the Bifrost, but I'm not sure if the differences are worth the premium price or not :D
 
Thanks,
Kratos.
 

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