[Cryok95]

Quote:

Stupid question.  Just ordered the crack, but am hearing the end of this forum where people are talking about amps busting headphones.  Are you guys modding the crack?  Or do I not have to worry with the stock crack?
 

 
I had no problems with the crack whatsoever.

 

[thunkerdo]

Great.  Thanks, guys.  Was a little worried for a sec.  Now if I could only decide on an under $200 DAC, which I know nothing about.

 

[amcananey]

I have generally found that the entire Audio-Gd lineup provides excellent value for money. While their stand-alone DACs cost more than $300, they have combined DAC, headphone amps and pre-amp units that are value-priced, yet still offer a ton of features and performance. Take a look at their $299 NFB-11.32 (http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/Headphoneamp/NFB11.32/NFB11.32EN.htm) based on the ES9018 chip, and their $235 NFB-15.32 (http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/Headphoneamp/NFB15.32/NFB15.32EN.htm), which uses dual WM8741 chips.

 

[amcananey]

Whoops, I apologize. I just saw that you said under $200, not under $300. Are you using USB, or do you need optical and/or coaxial inputs? If you only need USB, then just go for an ODAC. I wouldn't really waste too much time thinking about it. If you need optical and/or coaxial, then consider a used DAC.

 

[thunkerdo]

Quote:

Whoops, I apologize. I just saw that you said under $200, not under $300. Are you using USB, or do you need optical and/or coaxial inputs? If you only need USB, then just go for an ODAC. I wouldn't really waste too much time thinking about it. If you need optical and/or coaxial, then consider a used DAC.

 
This was extremely helpful.  I'm new to all this.  I just need USB.  I think I'll go with standalone ODAC from JDS Labs.  Oh, would I need the RCA output?  Or just the standard output.

 

[amcananey]

 
This was extremely helpful.  I'm new to all this.  I just need USB.  I think I'll go with standalone ODAC from JDS Labs.  Oh, would I need the RCA output?  Or just the standard output.

 
I would go for the RCA output version. Do you NEED it? Maybe not, but it gives you a lot more cable flexibility going forward, and is generally just more convenient.

 

[GaryPham]

Quote:

 
I would go for the RCA output version. Do you NEED it? Maybe not, but it gives you a lot more cable flexibility going forward, and is generally just more convenient.

 
Apologies if this question has been answered before, but is there a disadvantage to using an RCA to 3.5mm interconnect vs regular rca to rca?  I'm also looking at picking up an ODAC as well and wondering if its worth it to spring extra for the RCA outputs version.  I already have an RCA to 3.5mm interconnect, but willing to spend extra for the ODAC with RCA if its actually better.

 

[Armaegis]

The rca-rca connection is physically/mechanically stronger and more secure against fuzziness/static if you move the unit around (which shouldn't be an issue as it's serving purely as dac).

 

[palmfish]

RCA to RCA might be more reliable if you'll be frequently plugging and unplugging the cord, but sound-wise, there shouldnt be an audible difference.

EDIT: I see Armaegis hit enter before me...

 

[amcananey]

It's been argued that RCA-RCA has lower potential for crosstalk. Whether that pans out in real life, I don't know. Again, I see it as more of a convenience question, plus the opportunity to use any number of interconnects going foward.

 

[thunkerdo]

So, as far as tools needed for this build I have
 
1) Greenlee 1917A Wire Stripper/Cutters, 26-16 AWG
2) Xcelite CN255V Curved Nose Plier
3) Xcelite MS54V Semi-flush Oval Head Cutter
 
What soldering station have you used?  Can I buy the cheapest one on amazon?
 
I also see this is helpful:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/476650/crack-bottlehead-otl/1965#post_9611502

 

[Armaegis]

A small bottle of liquid/paste flux is also useful. And a box of little bandaids for the inevitable small burns, lol.

 

[palmfish]

So, as far as tools needed for this build I have

1) Greenlee 1917A Wire Stripper/Cutters, 26-16 AWG
2) Xcelite CN255V Curved Nose Plier
3) Xcelite MS54V Semi-flush Oval Head Cutter

Oh no! Dont spend that much. Here's what I used...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPR2LW/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JNLUN4/ref=oh_details_o03_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Diagonal-Cutting-Pliers-Memory/dp/B000VKUP1I/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1376671478&sr=1-1&keywords=Diagonal+cut+pliers

 

[brunk]

Quote:

So, as far as tools needed for this build I have
 
1) Greenlee 1917A Wire Stripper/Cutters, 26-16 AWG
2) Xcelite CN255V Curved Nose Plier
3) Xcelite MS54V Semi-flush Oval Head Cutter
 
What soldering station have you used?  Can I buy the cheapest one on amazon?
 
I also see this is helpful:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/476650/crack-bottlehead-otl/1965#post_9611502

Per Crack Manual:
 
Tools and additional materials you will need:
 

1. eye protection
2. slotted tip screwdriver
3. needlenose pliers
4. wire cutters
5. wire stripper for 12ga. and smaller wire
6. soldering iron, 40W is fine. An inexpensive solder station is much, much better
7. volt-ohm meter - we suggest a 'pocket DMM' - use this for sorting out hard to read resistors
8. a good light source
9. Sharpie or other marking pen for terminal ID
10. a soft towel or placemat to rest the amps on while working on the underside—the sticky bubble 
11. wrap supplied with your kit can also work well as a cushion for your project.

 
other tools that are nice to have:
 

1. magnifying glass for parts identification
2. desoldering tool or desoldering braid
3. A set of small sockets and a socket wrench for tightening the mounting hardware
4. A “third hand” tool can be useful for situations where you need support the parts you are working 
5. on while keeping both hands free to solder

 
Solder -
we recommend standard 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead solder as the easiest to work with. 2% silver solder is OK, but stay away from 4% silver solder. It does not flow well. If you are using an adjustable solder station you will want to set the temperature to about 650-700 degrees.
 
Paint—
you may wish to paint the power transformer bell end. We suggest a light scuff sanding with 
220 grit sandpaper and cleaning of the surfaces with a good degreaser like formula 409 or Fantastik 
before spraying.
 
Materials for finishing the wood bases -
220 grit sandpaper, wood glue, masking tape, stain, and 
a finish. Analine dyes are a great way to get a clear finish that really shows off the wood grain. The 
newer  polymer  finishes  such  as  Varathane  Diamond  are  easy  to  use  and  easy  to  clean  up  with 
water. Spar varnish gives a nice glossy finish.

 

[Doc B.]

JT was avionics tech in the Navy, and our old mentor John Buddha Camille was an F4 Phantom pilot in Viet Nam, who had shot down 4 MIGs. So the phrase is probaby from their experiences. As an interesting tie in to this talk about building electronic stuff - Buddha would have been an ace with 5 kills, but twice he had missles fail to fire during a dogfight. In both cases it was found that there were bad solder joints in their electronics.

Regarding headphones being damaged when connected to Crack kits - there are thousands of Crack kits in the field, and I'm pretty sure this is the first case we've heard of noise from the output tube damaging headphones.