[kozmos]

Okay, one more question.
Did the crack come with enough wire to do the fly wiring or do i have to buy some more ?

 

[brunk]

Quote:

Okay, one more question.
Did the crack come with enough wire to do the fly wiring or do i have to buy some more ?

Most people say they end up with about a foot left of each wire, so long as you don't mangle up your cuts.

 

[brunk]

Quote:

This cap would be perfectly fine for bypassing the last cap in the power supply.
 
If you want to replace that cap entirely, and don't want to buy a film cap (which will run you about $65), you can wire two of these in parallel, though obviously, space and mounting will be an issue! (These are the ones I bought - I will probably just mount them outside the case.)
 
Best regards,
Adam

Dang, those motor runs caps are almost 6in. long! I don't even think those would fit at all, even if you mounted them vertically and raised the chassis with feet.

 

[ben_r_]

Quote:

Okay, one more question.
Did the crack come with enough wire to do the fly wiring or do i have to buy some more ?

Ha I ended up with almost enough wire to do TWO Crack builds. It all depends on how good you are at soldering and how much experience you have with building stuff like this. You do not have to follow the Crack manuals measurements, they are all way longer than you should need but are so to make working with the runs easier. Even if you do, yes there should be enough to make some short fly leads for custom film output caps. And if you dont, just pick up some 20AWG solid or stranded wire from online or a store for under $5 for 25ft or so and youll have plenty.

 

[brunk]

Quote:

Dang, those motor runs caps are almost 6in. long! I don't even think those would fit at all, even if you mounted them vertically and raised the chassis with feet.

Well, I found a nice cap that doesn't cost alot with shipping lol. MKP Audio 2.2uf 250v $3.50 shipped.

 

[amcananey]

Quote:

Even if you do, yes there should be enough to make some short fly leads for custom film output caps. And if you dont, just pick up some 20AWG solid or stranded wire from online or a store for under $5 for 25ft or so and youll have plenty.

 
I would stick to solid core wire and avoid stranded. You might get away with stranded for the fly leads, but in general, solid core is much easier to work with in these applications.
 
Best,
Adam

 

[amcananey]

Quote:

Well, I found a nice cap that doesn't cost alot with shipping lol. MKP Audio 2.2uf 250v $3.50 shipped.

 
Well, yeah, but that's a 2.2uf cap. Suitable for bypassing the electrolytic in the power supply, but not replacing it. I'm not claiming you need to replace it (in my Crack I currently have the cap bypassed with a 2.2uf ClarityCap ESA), but the motor run caps are 100uf each, so you can take two of them to replace the last power supply cap.
 
Also, FWIW, the cap I suggested for bypassing (instead of replacing) the electrolytic only cost $1.72, and is from a brand and vendor that are well-known (though I assume shipping adds to the price). I don't know anything about the cap you linked to, so I'm not saying it isn't just as good. If you decide to bypass all three electrolytics in the power supply, the cost would probably be about the same.

 

[brunk]

Quote:

 
Well, yeah, but that's a 2.2uf cap. Suitable for bypassing the electrolytic in the power supply, but not replacing it. I'm not claiming you need to replace it (in my Crack I currently have the cap bypassed with a 2.2uf ClarityCap ESA), but the motor run caps are 100uf each, so you can take two of them to replace the last power supply cap.
 
Also, FWIW, the cap I suggested for bypassing (instead of replacing) the electrolytic only cost $1.72, and is from a brand and vendor that are well-known (though I assume shipping adds to the price). I don't know anything about the cap you linked to, so I'm not saying it isn't just as good. If you decide to bypass all three electrolytics in the power supply, the cost would probably be about the same.

Yeah I'm just going to bypass it with that cap i got. PE wants to charge like $7 for shipping lol.

 

[brunk]

Quote:

Yeah I'm just going to bypass it with that cap i got. PE wants to charge like $7 for shipping lol.

Well, I just added up my total cost of the crack + upgrades and misc. tubes. Comes out to $500, not including the $300 i spent on a wide variety of tools that i really needed anyway. Not too bad honestly considering the top quality parts. Only things i wont be upgrading for now is the input and output jacks lol. Everything else is pretty much upgraded.
 
Crack + Speedball (promo) = $290
MKP Audio PSU Bypass cap $3.50
solid Silver signal wire + teflon tubing = $37.25
alps 50k pot, up-occ power wire and tube sockets = $41
dayton film output coupling caps $60
misc. tubes $65
 
Total: $497
 

 

[Nic Rhodes]

I can understand 100microFarad  film caps for an upgrade, but have some 100microFarad + 100microFarad blackgates hanging around from years ago and an old project (405v). How do these compare nowdays (15 years on...)?
 

 

[Seamaster]

Quote:

 
Re: tube rolling. I plan on installing Speedball too and although I've read a lot about the various tube options, in the end I decided to not pursue boutique (expensive) tubes for my Crack. That said, I did buy a CBS (Hytron) 6AS7G (black plate) and CBS 5814A (black plate D-Getter). I love the "big bottlehead" look and I dig the tubes both having matching orange CBS silkscreening.

Congrats on your amp
Quote:

Phew!
 
Hey, quick question... I'm browsing online and found this "illuminated rocker switch." It's rated 15 amp instead of 5 amps at 120 VAC. I have no idea what other specs (contact resistance?) the stock switch is rated at.
 
I like the idea of having one that lights up - do you think it's compatible?
 
http://www.e-switch.com/product/tabid/96/productid/113/sename/r1966-series-illuminated-rocker-switches/default.aspx

I think old school toggle switch looks better with Crack.

 

[mellowbob]

Well I couldn't wait for the missing #4 nuts + tubes so I went to my local Home Depot and picked up some nuts so I can continue my build.
For the wooden stand, I went for the weathered look.

Finished product minus tubes:


Now I just need to get the tubes in, get some listening time, then start working on the speedball!

 

[palmfish]

Quote:

Well I couldn't wait for the missing #4 nuts + tubes so I went to my local Home Depot and picked up some nuts so I can continue my build.
For the wooden stand, I went for the weathered look.

Finished product minus tubes:


Now I just need to get the tubes in, get some listening time, then start working on the speedball!

 
Nice, clean build! Congrats!

 

[palmfish]

Here's my finished product. I'm working out a couple of small bugs but she looks good and is playing music very well

 

 

[brunk]

Quote:

Here's my finished product. I'm working out a couple of small bugs but she looks good and is playing music very well

 

Spoiler: Warning%3A%20Spoiler!

 

Looks good! What is it sitting on top of?