Crack;Bottlehead OTL
Jul 14, 2013 at 2:56 PM Post #1,981 of 12,335
Thinking the same thing myself. It was insulting enough as it was paying $125 for less than $10 in parts in the Speedball Kit, and now they are giving it away for free?! Nice.


I ordered mine a couple weeks ago as we'll, I called Bottlehead and while they were already out of the tubes they were more then happy to add the speedball to me order. Really great people to work with IMO.
 
Jul 14, 2013 at 11:01 PM Post #1,982 of 12,335
Really cool , just order the a set as I missed the last promotion , hopefully still can get the free tube :D .
 
anw can I check whether I can use 6SN7 with converter with this amp ? really tempting to see how it 's performance with TS5998 and Sylvania 6SN7 bad boy , they are great with the DV336 
 
Jul 15, 2013 at 2:57 AM Post #1,983 of 12,335
anw can I check whether I can use 6SN7 with converter with this amp ? really tempting to see how it 's performance with TS5998 and Sylvania 6SN7 bad boy , they are great with the DV336 


You can. You need an adapter available on eBay. It comes in 6V and 12V versions. You need the 6V version. Be warned, however: in my experience 6SN7s aren't the best match for the Crack. I would stick to 12AU7s and 12BH7s. Others have a different view, of course...
 
Jul 16, 2013 at 7:59 AM Post #1,985 of 12,335
I might build mine without the speedball for a while and then add it later to compare. From everything I have read about this amp I should have my old friend the LittleDotII++ up for sale in a few weeks. LOL!
 
 
Jul 16, 2013 at 8:37 AM Post #1,986 of 12,335
Quote:
I might build mine without the speedball for a while and then add it later to compare. From everything I have read about this amp I should have my old friend the LittleDotII++ up for sale in a few weeks. LOL!
 


It will also be easier to troubleshoot if you first build the stock Crack, and when it works add the speedball.
 
Jul 16, 2013 at 12:04 PM Post #1,988 of 12,335
1. These are the attenuators I use and recommend: http://www.amazon.com/Harrison-Labs-Line-Level-Attenuator/dp/B0006N41B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373666346&sr=8-1&keywords=harrison+labs

I do NOT recommend trying the 3 dB or 6 dB versions.

2. If you buy the right equipment (which isn't expensive and will serve you well for a long time to come), watch a couple of YouTube videos on soldering, practice soldering for half an hour with some scrap pieces and follow the instructions (which include detailed pictures for EVERY step) carefully and methodically, then ANYONE can build a Crack.

In terms of what qualifies as the right equipment, I recommend the following:

- a basic temperature controlled soldering station (check Amazon or eBay, these are NOT expensive - and a digital display doesn't add anything over analog controls) - this should come with a soldering iron holder and a sponge
- 63/37 leaded solder with a rosin flux core (don't go for lead-free, silver or 60/40 solder
- wire strippers (the kind with holes marked for various wire gauges, it should have holes for 20, 22 and 24 AWG)
- a quality pair of flush-cut wire cutters (these are small, not the kind you use for cutting household electrical wire)
- some solder braid to take care of the inevitable mistakes
- high quality tweezers

Other things that come in handy: a magnifying glass, a penlight, forceps. I think that's it.

There are four rules when it comes to soldering:

1. FIRST establish a good physical connection, THEN solder in place.
2. Heat BOTH components you are looking to connect equally.
2. Adding a tiny bit of solder to the soldering iron tip before touching the components will help to conduct heat.
3. Add solder by touching the components, not the soldering iron tip. The solder is attracted to heat, and adding solder to cold components will give you a weak, brittle solder connection that will soon break or give you only intermittent contact.

I know soldering sounds difficult intimidating, but the Crack was my first soldering project and it worked the first time. And it sounds phenomenal and was an incredibly satisfying process.

IF YOU RUN INTO ANY PROBLEMS, DON'T GET FRUSTRATED. Post on the Bottlehead forums and the Bottlehead team will respond very quickly with detailed, helpful advice. They provide better service in their forums, then I've had from most places in person or over the phone. And if anything seems unclear, then again just post in the Bottlehead forum and you will get an answer.

You can easily build a Crack in two nights. Three if you go really slow and want to do some practicing first.

Best regards,
Adam

 
I'm feeling sheepish...I forgot two of the most important tools: 1. A digital multimeter, and 2. Needle-nose pliers (small ones, with a long, thin "nose"). You can get a cheap multimeter for $10 and, surprisingly, they actually aren't terrible. I have one that is fairly accurate. But I wound up buying this one for not much more cash and it is a big improvement in readability, ergonomics and flexibility. Most importantly, you can swap out the probes for ones that have clip leads, which are safer. Best regards, Adam
 
Jul 16, 2013 at 2:13 PM Post #1,989 of 12,335
Quote:
I ordered mine Friday. Are they shipping that quickly? From reading, it seems like it'd take 2-3 weeks.

Yes. Some of the first kits ordered on Friday may ship within the next week or so. We have what we felt was a typical month's worth of inventory on hand. But we had such a huge response that we had to call in emergency orders to all of our vendors yesterday and order double our normal quantity, and some of them will take a couple/three weeks to get parts made and sent to us.
 
Okay, I'd better get back to tracking down parts and brushing panels!
 
Jul 16, 2013 at 2:26 PM Post #1,990 of 12,335
Okay, I'd better get back to tracking down parts and brushing panels!

 
Doc, Any chance you can use this as an opportunity to post a video of you brushing the panels? Doesn't have to be studio quality, it would just be cool to see your technique as I make my own replacement chassis. Even a cellphone video on YouTube would be helpful... Best, Adam
 
Jul 16, 2013 at 6:29 PM Post #1,992 of 12,335
Quote:
I ordered mine a couple weeks ago as we'll, I called Bottlehead and while they were already out of the tubes they were more then happy to add the speedball to me order. Really great people to work with IMO.


+1 awesome people over there at bottlehead, hopped on this deal too. Can't wait to get started! I think I too will build just the crack first then the speedball after
 
Jul 17, 2013 at 7:38 AM Post #1,993 of 12,335
Quote:
+1 awesome people over there at bottlehead, hopped on this deal too. Can't wait to get started! I think I too will build just the crack first then the speedball after

cant wait to get started too - been bitten by the tube and tube rolling bug after buying the lyr so having the crack will give me even more tubes to hunt down and buy - great fun :)
 
Jul 18, 2013 at 3:08 PM Post #1,994 of 12,335
1st post here.  I asked this question on the HD800 appreciation thread, figuring it would be the right place, but got one limited response which I appreciate but was hoping for more.  So I'm here instead - hope it is OK to post. 
 
Two questions: 
 
1. Does the Crack w. Speedball do the HD800 sufficient justice so that its strengths are adequately utilized?  i realize that one can well spend north of four figures to maximize the HD800 and that it scales up very well.  However, there is a sense generally that at a certainly level, a piece of equipment is does something justice or not.  Where the line is is subjective of course but I think there's a general concensus that develops after a while. 
 
2. If I want to have the Crack/Speedball dedicated primarily to the HD800, what other modifications would be recommended where the bang for the buck return for the additional cost is high?  Or should one just stay stock? 
 
Thanks in advance for any help. 
UL
 
Jul 18, 2013 at 4:02 PM Post #1,995 of 12,335
Quote:
1st post here.  I asked this question on the HD800 appreciation thread, figuring it would be the right place, but got one limited response which I appreciate but was hoping for more.  So I'm here instead - hope it is OK to post. 
 
Two questions: 
 
1. Does the Crack w. Speedball do the HD800 sufficient justice so that its strengths are adequately utilized?  i realize that one can well spend north of four figures to maximize the HD800 and that it scales up very well.  However, there is a sense generally that at a certainly level, a piece of equipment is does something justice or not.  Where the line is is subjective of course but I think there's a general concensus that develops after a while. 
 
2. If I want to have the Crack/Speedball dedicated primarily to the HD800, what other modifications would be recommended where the bang for the buck return for the additional cost is high?  Or should one just stay stock? 
 
Thanks in advance for any help. 
UL

definetly get the speedball upgrade,thats the biggie
Others will chime in about the v-caps..??
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top