Crack;Bottlehead OTL
May 19, 2014 at 12:42 PM Post #5,041 of 12,347
Finally got my Crack finished. I'm gonna run it without the Speedball for a while then install it so I can hear the difference for myself.
 

Very nice! That was my plan when I started nearly a year ago. Rolled some tubes. Still listening to the stock crack, even though I have the SB upgrade sitting here. I just enjoy the euphonic presentation so much, especially with the HD800 and T90. I sometimes put on the T1, but not nearly as often as the the other two. HD800 and Crack lean towards an electrostatic sound with better bass. The T90 + Crack lean towards a planar sound but with better treble though a little less really low bass.
 
May 19, 2014 at 12:54 PM Post #5,042 of 12,347
I just picked up the last ts5998 from vacuumtubes.net 
biggrin.gif

 
May 19, 2014 at 12:56 PM Post #5,043 of 12,347
Thanks!

Very easy build, only problem I had was with the tiny LED's on the bottom socket. They are SO small.

The directions are almost full proof, just read everything twice. Main thing to pay attention to IMO is when they specify ATTACH and SOLDER. Only SOLDER when the directions sate it's time to do so or you will be using the solder wick. Lol.
When you unpack your kit don't let the parts scare you, just take your time and you will do fine.

I'm gonna use mine as is for a while and then start modding,
 
May 19, 2014 at 1:05 PM Post #5,044 of 12,347
Thanks!

Very easy build, only problem I had was with the tiny LED's on the bottom socket. They are SO small.

The directions are almost full proof, just read everything twice. Main thing to pay attention to IMO is when they specify ATTACH and SOLDER. Only SOLDER when the directions sate it's time to do so or you will be using the solder wick. Lol.
When you unpack your kit don't let the parts scare you, just take your time and you will do fine.

I'm gonna use mine as is for a while and then start modding,

thanks can't wait for it to arrive :)
did you use particular solder ? i read it should be wire 63/37 with rosin core solder, am i correct or it doesn't really matter? 
 
May 19, 2014 at 1:39 PM Post #5,045 of 12,347
The Cardas Quad Eutectic solder is good and easy to work with, you will see a lot of the diy cable guys and hard core builders swear by it 3 meters is all you need to build a Crack+Speedball, that's only a couple of dollars worth and its easy to find on ebay. Its got to be good from a resale point also.
 
May 19, 2014 at 1:41 PM Post #5,046 of 12,347
This is what I use.




Unless your planning for a whole bunch of builds this is plenty. I am building another Crack for a friend and figure to have more then enough on this one roll for at least four complete builds.
 
May 19, 2014 at 3:44 PM Post #5,048 of 12,347
I swapped in some 100uf 250v Mundorf caps and I'm frankly very very surprised with the results. They've actually changed the presentation of everything I've put through them and I've been listening to music I haven't enjoyed for years, absolutely buzzing. I was very skeptical of the changes these would bring (partly because I'm electronics ignorant) but even after a few hours, they've tightened up in the bass and it's at the perfect level for me. The mids and top end, meanwhile, are so detailed and nicely separated but it's the overall presentation which is perfect. I wouldn't say the sound is rolled off, it's just much better controlled on the top end and every single song I've run through them over the past few hours sounds so cohesive. There are certain songs which have elements panned a little too wide or the trumpet is a touch too bright but everything sounds just in its right place. I've never heard bass like it, either, on open cans. I can't imagine what it will be like once they've had a couple of hundred hours to burn in.
 
Many thanks to those who inspired me to give them a go.
 
May 20, 2014 at 1:42 AM Post #5,051 of 12,347
  I swapped in some 100uf 250v Mundorf caps and I'm frankly very very surprised with the results. They've actually changed the presentation of everything I've put through them and I've been listening to music I haven't enjoyed for years, absolutely buzzing. I was very skeptical of the changes these would bring (partly because I'm electronics ignorant) but even after a few hours, they've tightened up in the bass and it's at the perfect level for me. The mids and top end, meanwhile, are so detailed and nicely separated but it's the overall presentation which is perfect. I wouldn't say the sound is rolled off, it's just much better controlled on the top end and every single song I've run through them over the past few hours sounds so cohesive. There are certain songs which have elements panned a little too wide or the trumpet is a touch too bright but everything sounds just in its right place. I've never heard bass like it, either, on open cans. I can't imagine what it will be like once they've had a couple of hundred hours to burn in.
 
Many thanks to those who inspired me to give them a go.

 
I've just finished a Crack build for a friend with some larger Nichicon power caps (470uF) and a pair of Mundorf MCaps for the output. After a short listen (not fully burned in) I'd say the MCaps sound much like you're describing. Did you use MCaps or Supremes?
 
May 20, 2014 at 2:56 AM Post #5,052 of 12,347
I used the MCaps but from looking at Rasmus's DIY blog, I think I'll also pick up some 1uF Supremes to bypass them, just to see what happens. I can snip them out quite easily if I don't like the results. Still waiting for the 2.2 uF to bypass the 3rd PSU cap, too.
 
Am I right then that the Nichicon caps are replacing caps 1&2? Any discernible results from that?
 
Also, anyone got any thoughts on choking the PSU? :)
 
May 20, 2014 at 4:40 AM Post #5,053 of 12,347
  I used the MCaps but from looking at Rasmus's DIY blog, I think I'll also pick up some 1uF Supremes to bypass them, just to see what happens. I can snip them out quite easily if I don't like the results. Still waiting for the 2.2 uF to bypass the 3rd PSU cap, too.
 
Am I right then that the Nichicon caps are replacing caps 1&2? Any discernible results from that?
 
Also, anyone got any thoughts on choking the PSU? :)

 
Unfortunately, due to time constraints, I built it straight to modified spec rather than starting stock and upgrading so I can't comment on the sound of the Nichicons in the power supply. I used 3 x 470uF caps in place of the stock 220uF caps. It's a bit of a squeeze and not as tidy, but the larger caps provide lower resistance to ground which is meant to be beneficial.
 
May 20, 2014 at 4:58 AM Post #5,054 of 12,347
I thought that was the case from the post above. As ever, though, if it doesn't hurt, it's worth a go. A few months ago, I wouldn't have even considered half the little things I've done to the Crack. In fact, it took me a long time to even consider building the Crack in the first place but I'm enjoying this side of the hobby, too. Fortunately, it sounds so good that I'm not listening to the gear, I'm finding the music more engaging than ever.
 
I had a great night last night, I must have spent about six hours on the HD650s as I had the house to myself til later in the evening, and I couldn't really sleep once my missus came in and went straight to bed, so sneaked up to the den for another couple of hours! Incidentally, I've never been convinced by classical on the 650s, and specifically by the presentation of strings, but the Mundorf caps have made a real difference there. I was listening to the Intermezzo from Mascagni's Cavalleria Rusticana and the rising swell of those strings brought a tear to my eye. Everything in its right place. Then I went onto Pavarotti and was just gobsmacked. You get a slightly forward presentation of lead vocals but there's so much happening in the background that's perfectly balanced, too.
 
And I've just stumped up for that GEC Brown Base on eBay UK. Looking forward to comparing with the TS5998.
 
May 20, 2014 at 5:23 AM Post #5,055 of 12,347
  I thought that was the case from the post above. As ever, though, if it doesn't hurt, it's worth a go. A few months ago, I wouldn't have even considered half the little things I've done to the Crack. In fact, it took me a long time to even consider building the Crack in the first place but I'm enjoying this side of the hobby, too. Fortunately, it sounds so good that I'm not listening to the gear, I'm finding the music more engaging than ever.
 
I had a great night last night, I must have spent about six hours on the HD650s as I had the house to myself til later in the evening, and I couldn't really sleep once my missus came in and went straight to bed, so sneaked up to the den for another couple of hours! Incidentally, I've never been convinced by classical on the 650s, and specifically by the presentation of strings, but the Mundorf caps have made a real difference there. I was listening to the Intermezzo from Mascagni's Cavalleria Rusticana and the rising swell of those strings brought a tear to my eye. Everything in its right place. Then I went onto Pavarotti and was just gobsmacked. You get a slightly forward presentation of lead vocals but there's so much happening in the background that's perfectly balanced, too.
 
And I've just stumped up for that GEC Brown Base on eBay UK. Looking forward to comparing with the TS5998.

 
It'll be interesting to see what you think of the Brown Base combined with the MCaps. The Crack I've just built has some Russian 6AS7 equivalent 6H13 (or something similar) and the combo of the tube plus the MCaps is creating a beautiful rich soundstage and really nice texturing, especially in strings so it'll be interesting to hear if the brown base improves this or just changes it as I found the GEC to be warmer and lusher which I liked, but it's different as far as I can remember.
 

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