Crack;Bottlehead OTL
Feb 10, 2013 at 6:53 PM Post #1,471 of 12,347
Looking at the undersides of the amp, the top arrow hows a loose connection. Tapping this will cause the LED's in the SB to turn off/on.

 
Sounds like bad solder joint(s) to me.. Easiest fix would be to send it back to the original owner and ask him to fix that 
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 Or you could try to reheat the solder joints and see if that fix the intermittent LED problem. Swapping both tubes is also a good idea, since most problems can be traced to a bad tube.
 
BTW you might have known this, but be careful when tapping on things while the amp is on! There are high voltages there. If I have the correct picture in my mind, you are pointing to the first cap in the power supply just next to the diode bridge, and if I remember correctly that cap has about ~200V on it.
 
 
 
I do not have any schematics or assembly manuals, not sure if these are available online.
Any advise woudl be appreciated.

Again, the previous owner is your best bet here. As far as I know, the manual is only distributed in a CD when you buy the kit and is not available online for copyright reasons.
 
Feb 10, 2013 at 7:25 PM Post #1,472 of 12,347
Thank you for the reply.
 
This amp was originally assembled by BH, my understanding is that it was the first to use the speedball.
 
To clarify, the set of LED's near the lower heat sink never turn on even when the other do. The bad solder joint seems simple enough, the dead right channel less so unless it's a bad tube.
 
KP
 
 
Feb 10, 2013 at 7:44 PM Post #1,473 of 12,347
my understanding is that it was the first to use the speedball.

That sounds familiar.. 
rolleyes.gif

 
Well, I'd do the following (in order, proceed only if the previous step did not solve the problem):
  • Reflow all suspicious joints (if you have the manual, you can do the resistance check to narrow down the potential problematic joints)
  • Swap the driver tube when you have it with you.
  • Get the manual, do voltage checks, and post the results on BH forum. The experts there should be able to tell you what went wrong by looking at those numbers.
  • If the issue is still not solved, cry. 
    biggrin.gif
 
Feb 11, 2013 at 12:17 PM Post #1,475 of 12,347

 
 
Top View: Copper Hammertone with a Golden Oak Finish
 
 
 

 
Under the hood: totally stock except for some heat shrink over some of the exposed leads.
 
Can't believe how great this sounds with the HD600s.  Compared to the Nuforce HDP they sound like a totally new headphone, I didn't expect this kind of difference for this price.  
L3000.gif

 
Feb 11, 2013 at 12:20 PM Post #1,476 of 12,347
Quote:

 
 
Top View: Copper Hammertone with a Golden Oak Finish
 
 
 

 
Under the hood: totally stock except for some heat shrink over some of the exposed leads.
 
Can't believe how great this sounds with the HD600s.  Compared to the Nuforce HDP they sound like a totally new headphone, I didn't expect this kind of difference for this price.  
L3000.gif

Are you using the HDP as a DAC for the setup now?
 
Feb 12, 2013 at 5:28 PM Post #1,482 of 12,347
Does anyone know how the Crack compares with the Bijou for use on HD650s?
I already have all the parts to build the Bijou, so this will get built for sure, but I am wondering if I need to try the Crack as well.
So far I am listening with the EHHA, and the HD650s sound boring.  Thanks for any info.
 
Feb 13, 2013 at 10:16 AM Post #1,484 of 12,347
Quote:
dpipple - To change the range of the volume pot, a simpler solution is to install some padding resistors before the volume pot. 50 Or 100 kohm Should do the trick.

 
You don't want to just increase this too much though, because it introduces noise. My solution was to use a 50k pot with a 50k resistor, for the same 100k input impedance.
 
Feb 13, 2013 at 11:57 AM Post #1,485 of 12,347
Quote:
dpipple - To change the range of the volume pot, a simpler solution is to install some padding resistors before the volume pot. 50 Or 100 kohm Should do the trick.

 
I'm no DIYer, have no tools, and no electronics fabrication or soldering skills. My Crack was built by someone else (who did a supreme job BTW!). My solution was to buy a pair of Harrison Labs 12dB line-level attenuators. They'll be here on Friday, so I don't have long to wait to see if they do the trick without compromising sound quality.
 

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