[attmci]

I have a Tung Sol 5998 and a Mullard CV4003 on the way.

You need to try a smoke glass TS 12au7 and a 7316 then stop driver tube rolling on the Crack. They are working very well with your 5998. GEC or 421 sounds better, but they are overkill for a Crack unless you plan to move to a better amp later.

These are fake:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Quad-Vinta...332918&hash=item5d7bacafb9:g:nFUAAOSw9mpZ6Zos

 

[FunyunBreath]

You need to try a smoke glass TS 12au7 and a 7316 then stop driver tube rolling on the Crack. They are working very well with your 5998. GEC or 421 sounds better, but they are overkill for a Crack unless you plan to move to a better amp later.

+1 on the 7316 being the end of the road for driver tube rolling

 

[Quadfather]

You need to try a smoke glass TS 12au7 and a 7316 then stop driver tube rolling on the Crack. They are working very well with your 5998. GEC or 421 sounds better, but they are overkill for a Crack unless you plan to move to a better amp later.

These are fake:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Quad-Vinta...332918&hash=item5d7bacafb9:g:nFUAAOSw9mpZ6Zos

What is the next step up from the Crack?

 

[Allanmarcus]

What is the next step up from the Crack?

S.e.x., cracka twoa, then mainline.

 

[Kitchener]

What is the next step up from the Crack?

Consumer debt.

 

[Quadfather]

Consumer debt.

5 pairs of headphones, 3 digital audio players, and a tube amp. I am already there LOL

 

[FunyunBreath]

Lol, the key I think is selling off the stuff you don't need

As soon as I finish my Mainline build the Crack is going to a new home haha.

 

[Kitchener]

Yeah, I think most of us are there!
Right now I’m down to two “serious listening” headphone systems:
Crack + HD6XX (bedside)
STAX SRM-313 + Lambda Pro + Topping D30 DAC(office)

One Sennheiser Momentum On Ear Wireless for on-the-go listening.

One Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro for PlayStation/computer games/videos.

Can’t really see myself cutting down here.
Better pay of my debt and save up for whatever comes

 

[attmci]

What is the next step up from the Crack?

Depends on what is your life after the hd-650/800 (i.e. LCDs etc). And don't forget the DAC.

 

[Quadfather]

Depends on what is your life after the hd-650/800 (i.e. LCDs etc). And don't forget the DAC.

Right now, I am using an Audioquest Big Sur to hook up my DAPs.

 

[DavidA]

Yeah, I think most of us are there!
Right now I’m down to two “serious listening” headphone systems:
Crack + HD6XX (bedside)
STAX SRM-313 + Lambda Pro + Topping D30 DAC(office)

One Sennheiser Momentum On Ear Wireless for on-the-go listening.

One Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro for PlayStation/computer games/videos.

Can’t really see myself cutting down here.
Better pay of my debt and save up for whatever comes

A lot or restraint on your part, I wish I was even half way there as you can see from the picture below:

Its an older picture and some of the headphones have changed but the quantity is still the same, or might have gone up, LOL.

 

[bloodhawk]

The 10"x10" Panel came in-

 

[Paladin79]

Plenty of space, very nice.

 

[Th3Drizzl3]

That looks awesome. hmmmm. lol

 

[ALL212]

Confessions of a Crack addict...

My last post (from what I can find) was back in 2013. Since then I've built a stock Crack that didn't stay stock but got sold and I kept what I refer to as the BAC or Big A$$ Crack - the plate above reminded me of it. The goal was to create enough space with a custom made plate to do all of the mods I wanted to do without trying to cram them all in that small stock area. In a way I cheated a bit as I work for a company that has a sheet laser and I have friends in the department that programs the laser. I designed the layout and then passed it to them.

The goal was to get the standard crack kit and the speedball installed with all of the goodies. Goodies included the upgraded diodes, upgraded PS caps including one full film cap, PS inductor, film caps tipping any electrolytic caps, film output caps, 6SN7 instead of 12UA7 socket and upgraded volume pot. I wanted the design to keep the on/off switch at the front and keep the volume and headphone jack at the front. Mogami W2534 wire in the signal path if possible.

Once done I also tipped the output film caps with the MX series of Clarity Cap (base caps are PX Clarity caps). I added resistors to the volume knob as I thought the volume came up too fast. You'll also notice damping material on the plate as I thought the slight clicks of the volume Pot were lessened by that.

Base Layout: I left the first two caps sticking up through the chassis.

Top plate done minus tubes: Just some bling around the headphone jack.

Done except for the extra resistors at the volume:

Volume Pot wiring:

Next to his cousin - the modified but stock plate Crack: Socket adapter on the stock plate allows use of the 6SN7 tube.

The only mistake I made was after I adjusted the distance of the speedball from the transformer I didn't remeasure the distance between the holes mounting the speedball. So it's just mounted with one screw. As light as it is this doesn't cause any issues.

A year or two ago I built the Mainline and this past winter built the Crack-a-two-a. Folks - Mainline wins, I don't care what components you put in the Crack or derivatives thereof. However, this amp rocks!

Aaron