[barontan2418]

Thanks Jamie. Yes I do have a soldering iron but not certain I could identity those joints applicable to right channel. I did not assemble the myself. Thank again for your reply.

 

[Tom-s]

A way to check for a bad connection is by performing a pin prick test.
Using a wooden chopstick touch every solder joint.
When the crackling appears or disappears you've located the bad solder joint.
 
Edit: be very careful. Keep the other safety advice from the manual in mind.

 

[barontan2418]

Interesting. Its more a total loss of the right channel than crackling. Thanks.

 

[Allanmarcus]

Thanks Jamie. Yes I do have a soldering iron but not certain I could identity those joints applicable to right channel. I did not assemble the myself. Thank again for your reply.

Just take a simple approach. Reflow all, or as many joints, as you can. They see if that helped. if you want to be systematic, reflow a few joints, then test, then reflow more.
 
Figuring out which are for the one channel is as easy as following the connection from the RCA to the Pot, then out of the pot. You may need the manual to determine which wire from pot is the channel you are looking for.
 
Still, if it were me, I would just reflow a section, listen, then reflow another section until all the joints have been reflowed. I would start with the easiest ones.

 

[barontan2418]

Thanks Allen.In your opinion could component failure be just as likely as a cold joint to cause loss of right hand channel audio after approx 15 min of play?

 

[buke9]

Thanks Allen.In your opinion could component failure be just as likely as a cold joint to cause loss of right hand channel audio after approx 15 min of play?

I would try the things that the others have mentioned before worrying about bad components. If you have other tubes that would be my first move them on to the others . No one can diagnose your problem from here you have to try some things first. Good luck though.

 

[Allanmarcus]

Thanks Allen.In your opinion could component failure be just as likely as a cold joint to cause loss of right hand channel audio after approx 15 min of play?

It's possible. It's a good place to start.
 
Actually, and easier place to start is the source and the cable running from the source to the crack. Switch the left and right plug going into he crack. If the other channel fails then the problem isn't even wit the crack. 

 

[buke9]

And if you have a different source that's worth a try easy first then the hard stuff.

 

[buke9]

While we're in troubleshooting mode I have something strange that happens. When I have the Crack and Liquid Carbon plugged into to the Yggy both are fine unless I turn off the Liquid Carbon and the bass gets all distorted I know the solution don't turn the Carbon off but is just a bit strange I'm sure it is and impedance thing with some relay in the Carbon that changes something just though I would share.

 

[barontan2418]

Really impressed with all the advice given. Much thanks to all
I have already changed the tubes,source and cables to no avail but will certainly follow the soldering route. Thankd again.

 

[mrravioli]

I post this on the WA7 thread but it's always better to hear from both sides.

Hi, I'm considering upgrading from my ODAC/O2 combo for Beyerdynamic T1. I heard good words about tube amps for T1 but currently torn between choices. WA7 is freakin sexy and appreciate the usb-DAC/amp in one design (coz I only listening with my MacBook). Another choice is the Bottlehead Crack. Ive only heard praise on it and it's less than half of the price of WA7 and seems pair well with high impedance cans. However it requires building myself (I'm not experienced in this regard and quite busy these days) and also needs a new DAC to pair with (most likely some ODAC or MODI stuff under $200).

At all rates, the sound is still of prime concern. Would the WA7 deserve the extra cost or the Bottlehead deserve the extra efforts to pair with my T1? And I listen to Classical 90% of my time.

 

[Tom-s]

Building your own amplifier is not something to look at as extra effort.
It's more fun hobby-wise. It helps you understand the technology you're listening to.
Crack is a great choice to start with. 
The biggest advantage of building a crack is everything that comes after.
And in that, the options are limitless. Flavouring, seasoning and refining it's sound to your personal taste. 
It's a very versatile amplifier for high impedance headphones.
 
 
It's all about the journey!: http://www.head-fi.org/t/476650/crack-bottlehead-otl/7800#post_12695818

 

[mrravioli]

  Building your own amplifier is not something to look at as extra effort.
It's more fun hobby-wise. It helps you understand the technology you're listening to.
Crack is a great choice to start with. 
The biggest advantage of building a crack is everything that comes after.
And in that, the options are limitless. Flavouring, seasoning and refining it's sound to your personal taste. 
It's a very versatile amplifier for high impedance headphones.
 
 
It's all about the journey!: http://www.head-fi.org/t/476650/crack-bottlehead-otl/7800#post_12695818

Thx Tom, I might go the Crack route. Could you also recommend a DAC (with USB) to pair with the Crack? My budget would be $300 and can live with used ones. I did some research but the results was too dazzling and only confuse me more. Should I just buy the Schiit Modi or ODAC for around $100 instead?

 

[adydula]

I use a ODAC with my Bottlehead Crack and a HRT MSii+. Both work well and I can not tell any difference. There is no real need to spend more money here IMO.
 
Alex

 

[mrravioli]

  I use a ODAC with my Bottlehead Crack and a HRT MSii+. Both work well and I can not tell any difference. There is no real need to spend more money here IMO.
 
Alex

Thx Alex.
 
Actually I'm using a ODAC/O2 combo now. I bought it 2-in-1 for convenience then with no idea of upgrading, so have to shoot for a new DAC since the combo can't be used as DAC only. I was a non-believer of DAC making a difference in sound, be last week I tried to connect my Macbook Pro directly into my O2 (skipping the ODAC) and the sound became noticeably 'flatter' (don't have a big hifi vocabulary, 'flat' is the best word I can think of).
 
BTW, what's your HP and music style Alex? Can you also compare the O2 (amp part) to the crack? Seems we have very similar taste in equipment so I would take your words seriously.