[Zashoomin]

Quote:

I started out using lead-free solder, with and without silver. Leaded solder was a revelation, and I found I much prefer 63/37 over 60/40. FWIW, I like Kester 245 better than Kester 44. The difference is that Kester 245 has a no-clean flux core, which is better if you do any PCB soldering.

Honestly lead-free solder is pretty horrible.  solder with lead is so much more easy to work with. 
 
Edit:  Let me clarify lead free is a lot harder to work with but not atrocious.  if you have something against lead than you won't have much of a choice.  Also its honestly not any more unhealthy to use leaded solder as the fumes that come off are boiling rosin not lead fumes.  Just make sure to wash your hands after. 

 

[ffivaz]

Quote:

Do you guys recommend a pointed or flat solder tip for the Crack (without the speedball)?  Also, I heard someone on here recommend this tip tinner.  Is this something I should look into?  Or is just tinning the tip with my solder good enough?  I have the WES51 solder.

 
I used a flat one, with the simple method demonstrated by Tyll Hertsens on his nice video about making the BH Crack. And it worked fine.
 
I used solder with lead. It is easier and is not environnementaly dangerous until you throw your kit away, in decades

 

[Beefy]

Quote:

I started out using lead-free solder, with and without silver. Leaded solder was a revelation, and I found I much prefer 63/37 over 60/40. FWIW, I like Kester 245 better than Kester 44. The difference is that Kester 245 has a no-clean flux core, which is better if you do any PCB soldering.

 
Yes, 63/37 (eutectic) is a must for electronics. It makes the 'freezing' point of the solder much more consistent, otherwise the solder can give a poor connection if anything is physically moved during cooling.
 
Wikipedia rocks this topic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder

 

[Doc B.]

Thanks for the enthusiasm, and thanks for patience with delivery! It may not seem it, but we are a pretty dinky outfit. Our margins basically allow only for part time help and at any given time we only have two people packing and shipping. Though lately we have had all hands on deck a few times to get this latest round of Crack shipments moving.

Nothing is pre-packaged, every *&^*&%^&! screw and washer gets counted out and bagged by a very patient, meticulous and over qualified Bottlehead employee. With all of the different kits we have these days we have to move through the packing in groups whenever possible. So they tend to ship out in batches, on a rotation that is largely influnced by "did those vendors ship those parts we ordered yet?". When a spike in orders like we had last month on Crack kits happens, it makes this process particularly interesting, kinda like you are juggling three tennis balls and a guy walks up with a big blue bowling ball and motions that he is going to throw it to you.

As for soldering, yes, 1/16" chisel tip, 63/37 leaded solder, and a sponge for tip cleaning are the way we do it. A decent soldering station is paramount. Hakko, Weller etc. are fine. We use a Hakko at work, I have an Ersa at home (really nice but $$$ and hard to find parts).

 

[calipilot227]

Crack build approaching final form...

 
Still need to install the Speedball upgrade, and the base needs some clearcoat. But I've been having too much fun listening 

 

[amcananey]

What paint did you use on the base?
 
Too bad the Bottlehead flair isn't available in silver!
 
Best regards,
Adam

 

[calipilot227]

Just some standard high-gloss black, sanded between coats (600 grit), and rubbed with steel wool following the final coat. I'll have to check the specific brand, I may have thrown out the can already.
 
And because we never get tired of glowing tubes,
 

 

[brunk]

Quote:

Just some standard high-gloss black, sanded between coats (600 grit), and rubbed with steel wool following the final coat. I'll have to check the specific brand, I may have thrown out the can already.
 
And because we never get tired of glowing tubes,
 

Oh my...are you trying to seduce me? 

 
Seriously though, well done! 

 

[Doc B.]

Interesting about the silver flair-
I made a key fob a few years ago that is a piece of mpingo with some elephant hide connecting the key ring to the fob. The wood has a Bottlehead badge attached. Over the years of riding around in a pocket the gold color has worn off the badge, revealing the bare metal underneath. So if one wanted a silver badge I think running it over some 400 grit wet or dry taped to a flat surface might do the trick. Have not tried it myself, so don't blame me if it turns out funky...

 

[brunk]

Quote:

Interesting about the silver flair-
I made a key fob a few years ago that is a piece of mpingo with some elephant hide connecting the key ring to the fob. The wood has a Bottlehead badge attached. Over the years of riding around in a pocket the gold color has worn off the badge, revealing the bare metal underneath. So if one wanted a silver badge I think running it over some 400 grit wet or dry taped to a flat surface might do the trick. Have not tried it myself, so don't blame me if it turns out funky...

I was thinking about how to make it silver colored myself. I'd like to request a silver option at checkout Doc 

 

[Doc B.]

OK, but I'll just charge an extra buck and include a piece of sandpaper.

 

[brunk]

Quote:

OK, but I'll just charge an extra buck and include a piece of sandpaper.

Lol, DIY to the very last detail 

 

[kozmos]

I got my mundorf mkp caps today, how do i locate positive and negative ?

 

[amcananey]

Unless the manufacturer indicates how you can/should identify which end is which, don't worry about it. Film caps don't really have positive and negative leads... It's not like electrolytics where if you install them the wrong way it goes "BOOM!".

 

[amcananey]

Lol, DIY to the very last detail 

 
I find this idea extremely amusing...I would love to see Doc actually implement it! :-D