Chord Mojo(1) DAC-amp ☆★►FAQ in 3rd post!◄★☆
Jan 15, 2021 at 12:26 PM Post #40,953 of 42,765
I disagree.
I am aware many have done this, some even replaced the battery with super-capacitors .
Firstly, the battery does not die that quickly! many can tell you of over two years of everyday use, before battery starts to dwindle.
battery is an Li-ion type, just like the ones in mobile phones, and the lifespan is similar too.
the only issue is that Chord has neglected to offer a battery replacement at a reasonable cost.
Secondly, Mojo works on 7.4 volts, but usb power is 5 volts - Mojo does a DC.to.DC upscale to provide about 8 volts to recharge the battery. without a battery inside to absorb the noise from the upscaler , it gets into trouble. Also the battery provides a very low impedance power source, without it, the charging circuit is not up to the task - that's why using super-capacitors is a good compromise .
lastly, Mojo can operate and charge at the same time, which is a reasonable compromise to its slong charging time.
Mine is over one year old, and I get a good 6-7 hours before I charge it, probably can manage another 30 minutes or hour, but I do not go that far.
remember, this type of battery has a longer life, if kept within 40% and 80% charge. so don't let it die, if you can help it.

You disagree that i offer an alternative? I'm trying not to laugh but that's funny.
 
Jan 15, 2021 at 4:13 PM Post #40,954 of 42,765
You disagree that i offer an alternative? I'm trying not to laugh but that's funny.
No, I disagree that removing the battery and using it without, is a valid option.
Nothing personal, it is just my opinion (disagreement) because of the reasons I provided.
I am of the general opinion that we are not clever enough to re-engineer this device.
 
Jan 15, 2021 at 5:52 PM Post #40,955 of 42,765
Speaking of not being clever enough to re-engineer the Mojo I would recommend a second thought before settling for less than OEM original spec batteries. I've had a laptop battery from a popular but not OEM brand fail and aggressively swell before blowing up once and had I not been at home and happened to have a bucket of sand at hand it could very realistically have started a fire.

To each their own but if the cheapest Ali Express battery costs me $10/year to run and the OEM article $50/year I'd personally still stick to the OEM. Only exception being if I saw myself as fit to judge the safety of the construction of the battery I'm buying. Most people don't have the necessary knowledge to do so.
 
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Jan 15, 2021 at 6:25 PM Post #40,956 of 42,765
No, I disagree that removing the battery and using it without, is a valid option.
Nothing personal, it is just my opinion (disagreement) because of the reasons I provided.
I am of the general opinion that we are not clever enough to re-engineer this device.

Well, it is a valid option for me and I'm sure it is for others as well. There are no absolutes.
 
Jan 15, 2021 at 6:52 PM Post #40,957 of 42,765
Speaking of not being clever enough to re-engineer the Mojo I would recommend a second thought before settling for less than OEM original spec batteries. I've had a laptop battery from a popular but not OEM brand fail and aggressively swell before blowing up once and had I not been at home and happened to have a bucket of sand at hand it could very realistically have started a fire.

To each their own but if the cheapest Ali Express battery costs me $10/year to run and the OEM article $50/year I'd personally still stick to the OEM. Only exception being if I saw myself as fit to judge the safety of the construction of the battery I'm buying. Most people don't have the necessary knowledge to do so.
Absolutely !
the original battery is safe to 80 centigrade , 65 C constant operation.
I have looked, there are no 1650mAh - 80 C batteries that would fit.
Chord should release batteries in enough numbers.
 
Jan 16, 2021 at 9:35 AM Post #40,959 of 42,765
Absolutely !
the original battery is safe to 80 centigrade , 65 C constant operation.
I have looked, there are no 1650mAh - 80 C batteries that would fit.
Chord should release batteries in enough numbers.
UPDATE:
I have started to replace a dead battery for a friend.
So I took the old one out to see what it is.
The battery dimensions are ( 64mm X 34mm X 14mm ) if anybody is interested - nothing bigger would fit!
It is 7.4V 1650mAh.
It is comprised of two flat Lipo batteries ( Model 653465G ).
Operating temperature Charging: 0°C ~ 45°C Discharging: -20°C ~60°C
Charging voltage is 8.4V.
The only heat sources are two large chips in the centre.
In case anyone was interested.
 
Jan 16, 2021 at 4:00 PM Post #40,960 of 42,765
Does anyone have experience of Hiby R2 with Mojo?

I’d be loading my Apple Lossless CD collection, c. 230gb, 500 albums, 13000 songs onto a 515gb sd card.

I might also stream Spotify to the Hiby R2 via Bluetooth from my Smartphone (not expecting HQ music that way).

Does it work well with the Mojo via USB?

Does the Hiby OS and Smartphone App cope with large libraries and navigation etc?

Other suggestions for a DAP welcome but on a tight budget (less than £100/$100).

FYI - Ideas I've already considered

- Ideally I'd love the Poly, but don't have the money.
- My smartphone doesn't have the capacity for 230gb of music.
- Streaming over DNLA from a PC is very unstable (in my LAN)
 
Jan 16, 2021 at 5:06 PM Post #40,961 of 42,765
Does anyone have experience of Hiby R2 with Mojo?

I’d be loading my Apple Lossless CD collection, c. 230gb, 500 albums, 13000 songs onto a 515gb sd card.

I might also stream Spotify to the Hiby R2 via Bluetooth from my Smartphone (not expecting HQ music that way).

Does it work well with the Mojo via USB?

Does the Hiby OS and Smartphone App cope with large libraries and navigation etc?

Other suggestions for a DAP welcome but on a tight budget (less than £100/$100).

FYI - Ideas I've already considered

- Ideally I'd love the Poly, but don't have the money.
- My smartphone doesn't have the capacity for 230gb of music.
- Streaming over DNLA from a PC is very unstable (in my LAN)
I have been using the Hiby R3 with the Mojo for about 2 years and it works very well.
The R3 is designed for stacking wit( the Mojo, Hiby even sold a special coax cable, but the USB cable works better IMO. Cables from Shanling or FIIO work well for me. One limitation is that when directly stacked, the Mojo picks up RFI if the R3’s Wifi is switched on. Therefore I use the R3 mainly offline, and for streaming I connect to my smartphone.

I suppose that the R2 shares the same connection properties and should work, but if you can get an older R3 (non Pro) it might be A good option too. Pictures of my stack with DIY case:
237B224C-7F89-4AEE-8D2E-FF42525801C3.jpegE989E0C9-A5D0-4181-9750-F368E92FEC0B.jpeg
 
Jan 16, 2021 at 5:39 PM Post #40,962 of 42,765
Does anyone have experience of Hiby R2 with Mojo?

I’d be loading my Apple Lossless CD collection, c. 230gb, 500 albums, 13000 songs onto a 515gb sd card.

I might also stream Spotify to the Hiby R2 via Bluetooth from my Smartphone (not expecting HQ music that way).

Does it work well with the Mojo via USB?

Does the Hiby OS and Smartphone App cope with large libraries and navigation etc?

Other suggestions for a DAP welcome but on a tight budget (less than £100/$100).

FYI - Ideas I've already considered

- Ideally I'd love the Poly, but don't have the money.
- My smartphone doesn't have the capacity for 230gb of music.
- Streaming over DNLA from a PC is very unstable (in my LAN)
Buy a used Android phone!
Put your microSD card inside, buy and install "Neutron Media player" for a few pounds.
That's it.
Neutron can playback and manage just about any audio file you throw at it, from MP3 to Flac to DSD.iso image files, wavepack ..... the lot.
You like audio processing, resampling, parametric equilizer, bit-perfect, DSD native ? ? Neutron does it all.
Connect it to wifi, and you get all the streaming you want through the phone itself.
Keep it on airplane mode if you wish - no player you can buy to feed an outboard DAC, can be as flexible as a used phone.
Alternatively use your existing phone.
 
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Jan 21, 2021 at 9:40 PM Post #40,963 of 42,765
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Jan 25, 2021 at 4:43 PM Post #40,964 of 42,765
UPDATE:
I have started to replace a dead battery for a friend.
So I took the old one out to see what it is.
The battery dimensions are ( 64mm X 34mm X 14mm ) if anybody is interested - nothing bigger would fit!
It is 7.4V 1650mAh.
It is comprised of two flat Lipo batteries ( Model 653465G ).
Operating temperature Charging: 0°C ~ 45°C Discharging: -20°C ~60°C
Charging voltage is 8.4V.
The only heat sources are two large chips in the centre.
In case anyone was interested.
2nd Update:
Recently I asserted that : we are not clever enough to re-engineer this device!
I am about to tell you what I have done in stark contrast to that statement, just for fun and for the heck of it.
While I had the Mojo opened up, I thought I do something about the Heat management within Mojo.
So with the circuit board loose on a towel, I connect everything up to see from where the heat comes from.
While playing most of the heat comes from the two large chips in the centre (the system/input chip and the FPGA gate array)

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Warning first ; Be really carefull if you open it up, specially the click-buttons as their metal caps are only held in place with a tiny tape - I almost lost mine.
These chips are stuck to the underside of the battery, so they heat up, they transfer their heat to the battery, which is not a good idea - specially that their centers are the hot spots, so they heat up two spots on one side of one of the batteries. I thought I do something about that.
Next I connected the charger, to get the thing really hot!
Incidentally, the battery remains cool as a cucumber discharging or charging, so none of the heat is due to the batteries.
While charging, the circuit components on the underside of the board near the charging socket get really hot! enough to burn your finger if you keep it on it more than a few seconds. These components are sitting in an airgap (about 1-3 mm) above the bottom shell. They were next on my list.

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The cluster of components on the left and centre can get really hot while charging.

Also the underside of the board where the large hot chips from otherside sit, also get hot - next item on the list.
So I carefully located these hot sections, and stuck 1.5mm and 2.5mm heat conducting pads on the bottom shell. these pads are widely used for cooling in computer systems.
This would thermally bond the hot components to the bottom shell, fairly easy.

To take the heat from the two large chips on the top away from the battery and to the shell to dissipate out, needed more effort.
So I cut a strip of pure copper sheet (17mm X 100mm X 0.5mm thick) and bent it into this shape.

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It is so shaped so it would touch the tops of the chips, but avoid anything else on the circuit, the end wings have thin thermal pads attached to them, because ultimately they would be touching the inside of the top shell to pass the heat on. The two black pieces of sponge would press the copper to the chips to make a good contact.
Thermal pads are attached to the chips (0.5mm thick), and the copper heatsink is inserted on the top shell.

1611609537626.png


Lastly, a tiny amount of heatsink compound is applied to the top shell contact areas with the bottom shell, and the shells are brought together gently.

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The foam inserts on the strip cause the shells to sit apart a few mm's - as I tighten the screws gently and in sequence, the shell would close up, squeezing a little paste out. no worries, it cleans up easily with white spirit and tissue paper.
The strip of copper is now sitting with a small airgap to the battery, hopefully it is cooling the chips and conducting the heat to the outer shells.
So what did it achieve?
- Mojo is a few grams heavier, not by much, but you can tell!
- Within a minute of switching on, the entire case starts to get warm, much faster than before, it may even feel like it is warming more, but it is not.
- Charging and listening at the same time, causes the case to warm up really quickly, I take this as a good sign. It means the heat is getting out quickly so it can dissipate faster, causing the final temperature equilibrium to be a few degrees lower. Provided you don't use a case, as it would nullify all this effort.
-
Wonderfully the initial fizzing noise while charging is gone! I assume the thermal pads stop the buzzing components from vibrating. Mojo just goes into charge mode without making any noise.
- The entire shell is at same temperature, no hot spots.
- As I write this it has been playing for 3 hours straight, it is just warm to touch - Just!
- I believe the battery lasts a little longer, but I have not actually tested this.

Well I had fun doing it.

BTW - this is my DIY interconnect from my phone to Mojo.

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It is about 750mm long, has a tiny USB hub and a MicroSD card reader soldered in the middle, two small ferrite cores at ends. The MicroSD card is 512GB, it holds my music. The phone detects both the card and Mojo through the same cable. Cable is super flexible 3mm X 2mm.
 
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Jan 25, 2021 at 5:38 PM Post #40,965 of 42,765
Haven’t tried the topping, but the mojo does sound way better than the ltp s1

imc I bought used for around 280 bucks, though battery life is quite crappy, im struggling to keep it up. I tried a battery supplier that was recommended here, though their answer was rather crappy “we don’t ship international” that was it. As a business owner whenever I get a response like that I imagine they must be swamped in sales and work, since for me every sale counts and every customer experience is valued

This battery discussion seems to come up again and again. At the end of the day I don't see why Chord does not make it easy and economical for Mojo owners to replace their batteries. It would be a win win, better experience for the customers, better product support and they are not giving the batteries away for free.
 

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