Chord Mojo(1) DAC-amp ☆★►FAQ in 3rd post!◄★☆
Jan 29, 2020 at 4:52 PM Post #39,751 of 42,765
Yes, interesting that it's going back up after such a long sale. I got mine for 369 EUR from amazon.de in September. It's 389 EUR now but probably going up soon from what I see elsewhere. And I see that on amazon.co.uk it went way up from the low of 299 GBP they had in Q4 2019.

Does anyone know if they are still producing them? Or are they just selling from existing stock now?
 
Jan 29, 2020 at 5:29 PM Post #39,752 of 42,765
Mojo is still 100% a current Chord Electronics product. This price change is simply the end of a holiday promotion – not an indication of anything else. :)
 
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Jan 29, 2020 at 5:37 PM Post #39,753 of 42,765
Okay, I'd better layoff the r/conspiracy/ sub-reddit thread till CanJam.

Anyways, 399 seems to expire end of the month for those whom are in the market.

I prefer Gen2 products and tend to not early adopt Gen1, so will wait...
 
Jan 29, 2020 at 6:59 PM Post #39,754 of 42,765
Curious, since I am deciding between the mojo and Q5s myself. happy with the purchase?
Well I have both: Mojo and Q5s. If you prefer warm sound go for Mojo. If you prefer more detailed, sharper sound and not as warm as in Mojo case, go with Q5s. Balanced output of Q5s also makes important difference. Q5s is also better choice if you plan to use BT. I had no issues with BT streaming to Q5s so far. In the end you should listen to both first and later decide what kind of features are important for you. Ideally listen to both at the same time. In case of Q5s balanced output switching headphones cables also can add some details but it will not be a night and day difference. I would say that Mojo is more vulnerable to poor USB cables. Switching to a better one than short one from the box also makes a difference. Last but not least Mojo has separate ports for music and charging. Q5s has single port.
 
Jan 29, 2020 at 11:17 PM Post #39,755 of 42,765
Well I have both: Mojo and Q5s. If you prefer warm sound go for Mojo. If you prefer more detailed, sharper sound and not as warm as in Mojo case, go with Q5s. Balanced output of Q5s also makes important difference. Q5s is also better choice if you plan to use BT. I had no issues with BT streaming to Q5s so far. In the end you should listen to both first and later decide what kind of features are important for you. Ideally listen to both at the same time. In case of Q5s balanced output switching headphones cables also can add some details but it will not be a night and day difference. I would say that Mojo is more vulnerable to poor USB cables. Switching to a better one than short one from the box also makes a difference. Last but not least Mojo has separate ports for music and charging. Q5s has single port.


the cable that comes with the Mojo is poor for listening, I used it for a long time then bought a used Curious Hugo Link,
the difference was night and day, like trying a good budget dap then suddently listening to a TOTL sound.
If using a generic USB cable, try a better one (such as a Curious Hugo Link) and hear it for yourself. Audioquest Jitterbug also being used and
sounds great with the rest!
 
Jan 30, 2020 at 3:45 AM Post #39,756 of 42,765
the cable that comes with the Mojo is poor for listening, I used it for a long time then bought a used Curious Hugo Link,
the difference was night and day, like trying a good budget dap then suddently listening to a TOTL sound.
If using a generic USB cable, try a better one (such as a Curious Hugo Link) and hear it for yourself. Audioquest Jitterbug also being used and
sounds great with the rest!

I don't have any experience with Jitterbug but I do use ifi iUSB3.0. In my case it was USB cable that made real difference like you said; iUSB was just adding final touch that may not be needed for some. However iUSB solved a different problem with Mojo: charging and allows to charge while listening (bringing it closer to Q5s single port feature). On the other hand it all depends on quality of USB ports of transport you are using so your mileage may vary enormously. My advice is: throw away the cable from Mojo box first and then and only then add something to clean up USB input. For charging and cleaning up USB input I think that ifi iUSB3.0 rocks, since I haven't found anything else of such versatility and quality. However buying it just for Mojo maybe considering by some an overkill comparing price of all mention above devices.
 
Jan 30, 2020 at 4:26 AM Post #39,757 of 42,765
For people who don't hear the 3-D sound of Mojo using USB (probably due to RFI) and don't want to spend unnecessarily, please try this cheap and reversible experiment:
Materials required:
- Your existing USB cable (use an OTG cable if your source is a mobile to avoid interconnects).
- A roll of aluminum tape like https://www.amazon.com/Sliver-Aluminum-Reflectix-Perfect-Patching/dp/B07S72XQQ1/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Sliver+Aluminum+Foil+Tape+for+Duct+Work,+1+in+x+66+ft+(4+mil)&qid=1580370244&sr=8-1

- 2 clip-on ferrites that fit your USB cable like https://www.amazon.com/Ferrite-Noise-Filter-Cable-3-5mm/dp/B01N0AV746/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=20+Pcs+Snap+on+Ferrite+Core+Cord+Ring+RFI+EMI+Noise+Filter+Suppressor+Cable+Clip+for+3.5mm/5mm/7mm/9mm/13mm+Diameter+Cable,+Black&qid=1580370520&sr=8-1

Procedure:
1. Attach one clip-on ferrite at each end of the USB cable about 0.5 inch after the connector to allow flexibility.
2. Wrap the whole cable in aluminum tape ensuring that the tape does NOT come in contact with the metal of the connectors. Do not leave even hairline gaps or holes

. FullImg.jpg

SideImg.jpg

Apologies for the quality of the images.

BTW I discovered this to be only way that worked for me. I tried doubly shielded cables, iFi iSilencer3.0 (similar to AudioQuest Jitterbug), etc. The lack of depth, muddiness, lack of instrument separation and piercing highs disappeared after implementing the solution above.
 
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Jan 30, 2020 at 3:12 PM Post #39,758 of 42,765
For people who don't hear the 3-D sound of Mojo using USB (probably due to RFI) and don't want to spend unnecessarily, please try this cheap and reversible experiment:
Materials required:
- Your existing USB cable (use an OTG cable if your source is a mobile to avoid interconnects).
- A roll of aluminum tape like https://www.amazon.com/Sliver-Aluminum-Reflectix-Perfect-Patching/dp/B07S72XQQ1/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Sliver+Aluminum+Foil+Tape+for+Duct+Work,+1+in+x+66+ft+(4+mil)&qid=1580370244&sr=8-1

- 2 clip-on ferrites that fit your USB cable like https://www.amazon.com/Ferrite-Noise-Filter-Cable-3-5mm/dp/B01N0AV746/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=20+Pcs+Snap+on+Ferrite+Core+Cord+Ring+RFI+EMI+Noise+Filter+Suppressor+Cable+Clip+for+3.5mm/5mm/7mm/9mm/13mm+Diameter+Cable,+Black&qid=1580370520&sr=8-1

Procedure:
1. Attach one clip-on ferrite at each end of the USB cable about 0.5 inch after the connector to allow flexibility.
2. Wrap the whole cable in aluminum tape ensuring that the tape does NOT come in contact with the metal of the connectors. Do not leave even hairline gaps or holes

.



Apologies for the quality of the images.

BTW I discovered this to be only way that worked for me. I tried doubly shielded cables, iFi iSilencer3.0 (similar to AudioQuest Jitterbug), etc. The lack of depth, muddiness, lack of instrument separation and piercing highs disappeared after implementing the solution above.

Very nice. Nice to see some 'out-of-the-box' diy. most 'out-of-the-box' solutions nowadays is just to throw a 'chi-fi' dap at the solution. In the low-mid 2000s, this site had a good combo of diy'ers. Now, it's a good amount of posters focusing on their on 'brand'. diy has taken a back seat.

Anyways, I did something similar before moving on to the a Gotham USB (5 layers of shielding); but I use it for power only. No data soldered on the Gotham. It's mainly used to power a Raspberry Pi. I did not though consider wrapping the ferrites in tape, well-played. It was a pain having the ferrites roll around.

gotham.jpg


On your next Amazon order, maybe give Faraday tape a try?

https://www.amazon.com/TitanRF-Fara...words=faraday+tape&qid=1580413500&sr=8-4&th=1

fara.png


That's what I used to wrap a USB cable before moving on to the Gotham. Not sure if much difference with Relectix. I believe Relectix is to block out sun/UV.

I wanted to try lining the inside on the Mojo with Faraday tape, but my 2nd hand Mojo buy here ended up a dud. Not sure of the heat-generation though...

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/crinacles-iem-ranking-list.857498/page-125#post-15030289

dong.png


Your really going to make me wrap a ferrite around the dongle now w/ tape...

It does work though as I blocked off a small portable router on all sides. Then I tried removing side by side until I got a SSID signal.

hotspot.png


Anyways, nice to see some experimentation ...
 
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Jan 30, 2020 at 7:28 PM Post #39,759 of 42,765
Very nice. Nice to see some 'out-of-the-box' diy. most 'out-of-the-box' solutions nowadays is just to throw a 'chi-fi' dap at the solution. In the low-mid 2000s, this site had a good combo of diy'ers. Now, it's a good amount of posters focusing on their on 'brand'. diy has taken a back seat.

Anyways, I did something similar before moving on to the a Gotham USB (5 layers of shielding); but I use it for power only. No data soldered on the Gotham. It's mainly used to power a Raspberry Pi. I did not though consider wrapping the ferrites in tape, well-played. It was a pain having the ferrites roll around.



On your next Amazon order, maybe give Faraday tape a try?

https://www.amazon.com/TitanRF-Faraday-Tape-High-Shielding-Conductive/dp/B07CRLCGCH/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=faraday+tape&qid=1580413500&sr=8-4&th=1



That's what I used to wrap a USB cable before moving on to the Gotham. Not sure if much difference with Relectix. I believe Relectix is to block out sun/UV.

I wanted to try lining the inside on the Mojo with Faraday tape, but my 2nd hand Mojo buy here ended up a dud. Not sure of the heat-generation though...

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/crinacles-iem-ranking-list.857498/page-125#post-15030289



Your really going to make me wrap a ferrite around the dongle now w/ tape...

It does work though as I blocked off a small portable router on all sides. Then I tried removing side by side until I got a SSID signal.



Anyways, nice to see some experimentation ...
Does Gotham also sell those 5 layer shielded cables with micro-USB to USB A?
 
Jan 30, 2020 at 11:00 PM Post #39,760 of 42,765
Very nice. Nice to see some 'out-of-the-box' diy. most 'out-of-the-box' solutions nowadays is just to throw a 'chi-fi' dap at the solution. In the low-mid 2000s, this site had a good combo of diy'ers. Now, it's a good amount of posters focusing on their on 'brand'. diy has taken a back seat.

Anyways, I did something similar before moving on to the a Gotham USB (5 layers of shielding); but I use it for power only. No data soldered on the Gotham. It's mainly used to power a Raspberry Pi. I did not though consider wrapping the ferrites in tape, well-played. It was a pain having the ferrites roll around.



On your next Amazon order, maybe give Faraday tape a try?

https://www.amazon.com/TitanRF-Faraday-Tape-High-Shielding-Conductive/dp/B07CRLCGCH/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=faraday+tape&qid=1580413500&sr=8-4&th=1



That's what I used to wrap a USB cable before moving on to the Gotham. Not sure if much difference with Relectix. I believe Relectix is to block out sun/UV.

I wanted to try lining the inside on the Mojo with Faraday tape, but my 2nd hand Mojo buy here ended up a dud. Not sure of the heat-generation though...

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/crinacles-iem-ranking-list.857498/page-125#post-15030289



Your really going to make me wrap a ferrite around the dongle now w/ tape...

It does work though as I blocked off a small portable router on all sides. Then I tried removing side by side until I got a SSID signal.



Anyways, nice to see some experimentation ...

The Faraday tape is a great idea. Thx.
I think the ferrites should fit snugly on the cable (even without the tape) and not move. There should not be an air gap between the ferrite and the cable.
 
Jan 31, 2020 at 3:56 AM Post #39,761 of 42,765
Jan 31, 2020 at 4:48 AM Post #39,762 of 42,765
Hello!

Sorry if this was mentioned somewhere, but i am unable to find it.
Can i use this cable for phone with Mojo?

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01GGKYAIU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_CN-mEbN5Q0PV1

Thanks!

If you are using an Android phone with Type-C connector, then you need OTG functionality like this one:
https://www.amazon.de/CableCreation-USB-Kabel-Android-Geräte-Datenkabel-Verbindungskabel-Grau/dp/B0744BKDRD/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_1/261-3211693-1166069?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0744BKDRD&pd_rd_r=99e45119-a474-4d7d-a622-1378df290078&pd_rd_w=SINje&pd_rd_wg=pIGgK&pf_rd_p=a2f6bca6-dcb1-4822-8e28-66b64b37970e&pf_rd_r=9NZJ1RBGAAR8PXJRZSQ5&psc=1&refRID=9NZJ1RBGAAR8PXJRZSQ5

Please ensure that the OTG functionality is on the phone (Type-C connector in your case) end.

Edit: I goofed up. Please don't use the cable I suggested above. It appears trom the translation, that micro usb is the phone side
 
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Jan 31, 2020 at 4:51 AM Post #39,763 of 42,765

Android phones haven't required an OTG cable for a while. It recognizes a device regardless of whether or not the cable is OTG.
 
Jan 31, 2020 at 4:55 AM Post #39,764 of 42,765
Android phones haven't required an OTG cable for a while. It recognizes a device regardless of whether or not the cable is OTG.

I don't know much about the subject, but I know that my Android Samsung S9 bought in 2019 needs OTG to work with the MoJo.
 
Jan 31, 2020 at 5:00 AM Post #39,765 of 42,765
I goofed up.Please don't use the cable I suggested above. It appears trom the translation, that micro usb is the phone side
 
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