[davo50]

Quote:

That's the thing, $350 to fix it? Thats ridiculous, you'd have to buy it for less than $50 to make money on it. It should be $150 maxx!
 

Hmm...  For the labor and re-capping that's pretty good.  I have had several amps re-capped and that's not bad at all.  Of course, I didn't do it to re-sell and make money.
 

 

[livewire]

Quote:

I am selling my Marantz as I prefer my Luxman for speakers due to its neutral sound, and since I've sold my HIFIMAN I have no need for the Marantz "warmth" and "punch" it provided for those  headphones. Plus I am interested in doing 5.1 or 7.1 so would really like to buy a new home theater receiver. At this time I am not willing to ship. Here is link to my local ad. Price is at higher end but I will lower as time goes plus Im negotiable especially for Head-Fier. 

Wow! That is an excellent deal.
If I lived closer, I'd snap it up in a heartbeat.
 

 

[Frank I]

The 350 is for a rebuild. So Ciafani you think a business should stay open and not make a profit. I think that is reasonable. With the cost of running a shop,technicians and employees that is way reasonable. Most companies  cannot stay in business without a profit and angelfire has employees and a shop in NY. People who rebuild their Pioneers is because they love them and want to keep them for another 30 years

 

[livewire]

Quote:

Hey, now!  You guys are kind!  Alot of good chatter on various topics of interest to me at the moment...sorta hard to figure where to begin...but want to honor the thread theme since some of the technical details are lurking under rocks elsewhere on the various forum threads, especially about using speaker taps with the Hifi-Man stuff.  Not that I understand it ("set DC offset zero to nil"? egads! woe is me...). 
 
I found RexAeterna's reference to bypassing the pre-amp section and using the power amp section in a "straight wire with gain" approach quite novel and it begs the question for me to ask for a response thereto: are you referring to accessing the signal produced by the power amp section through the headphone out jacks? (Wouldn't this even be possible?) 
I also want to know how does one "bypass" the preamp?  And on which Yamaha models is this best achieved if the sound source is the headphone out jack?  If the signal is flat, is it on the warm side of flat or more neutral like the Pioneer?
 
<snip>
 
 
 
 

I doubt you could do it through the headphone jack unless one was to rewire things internally.
 
On the backside of many vintage receivers there are binding post style jacks that are bridged
with connecting links that effectively connects the pre-amp section to the main amplifier section.
Simply removing the bridge links separates them, allowing one to hook directly to the amp section,
or to use the pre-amp to control an external higher power amplifier.
Some units also have front panel controls to aid in this function.
 
My Marantz 2275 and Pioneer SX-1010 both use the bridge links out back.
 
 

 

[Frank I]

 
Quote:

I doubt you could do it through the headphone jack unless one was to rewire things internally.
 
On the backside of many vintage receivers there are binding post style jacks that are bridged
with connecting links that effectively connects the pre-amp section to the main amplifier section.
Simply removing the bridge links separates them, allowing one to hook directly to the amp section,
or to use the pre-amp to control an external higher power amplifier.
Some units also have front panel controls to aid in this function.
 
My Marantz 2275 and Pioneer SX-1010 both use the bridge links out back.
 
 

The Pioneer SX650 and SX980 I owned both played them out of the jack with zero issues. The Marantz 2220B could not but Skylab had success using them out of the 2240 and 2275. But I still preferred them best out of the speaker tap bypassing the 150 ohm resistor in the Pioneer amps headphone jacks. .
 

 

[cifani090]

Quote:

Most of that 350 dollar charge is due to the labor involved ....it's not an easy job to pull all the caps (some resistors,diodes etc) from these older amps. They are not as modular in nature as the modern stuff. A complete rebuild of an amp can take anywhere from 4 hours to 2 days (2 x 8 hour days). It depends on what the tech finds once under the chassis lid. This is where learning to DIY pays off big time.
 
Peete.

I do understand that, and id want the guys to make money, and i do understand the problems involving rust,etc. The problem with lots of DIY, is that people are too lazy to spend money to put money and thinking energy in a case. Small business want you to buy it on appearance not specs. Which many people dont buy something on specs, but on the way it looks. Look at this, and dont tell me you want to buy it. Its not only nice, but its a B22, a B22! IMO the best all around headphones amp to this day, DIY or not.
 

 
Quote:

Hmm...  For the labor and re-capping that's pretty good.  I have had several amps re-capped and that's not bad at all.  Of course, I didn't do it to re-sell and make money.

 
I know, i meant it in the way of when you see people selling something at a set price and wanting to negotiate but they have 3/4th of there cost in servicing that they want to get back out of the unit.
 
Quote:

The 350 is for a rebuild. So Ciafani Cifani you think a business should stay open and not make a profit. I think that is reasonable. With the cost of running a shop,technicians and employees that is way reasonable. Most companies  cannot stay in business without a profit and angelfire has employees and a shop in NY. People who rebuild their Pioneers is because they love them and want to keep them for another 30 years

I understand where you are coming from. Ive yet to get a receiver serviced, probably because i just sell them right away if there is a problem with them. If you guys watch "Pawn Stars" they've said time and time again, a boat is a money hole. IMO the same with these. I love my equipment, but if/when i go to sell it, i dont want to waste my time and loose money, i think that the bad economy has made me like this

 

 

[WarriorAnt]

Quote:

I do understand that, and id want the guys to make money, and i do understand the problems involving rust,etc. The problem with lots of DIY, is that people are too lazy to spend money to put money and thinking energy in a case. Small business want you to buy it on appearance not specs. Which many people dont buy something on specs, but on the way it looks. Look at this, and dont tell me you want to buy it. Its not only nice, but its a B22, a B22! IMO the best all around headphones amp to this day, DIY or not.
 

I've spent the last 7 months exploring the B22 and decided  never to buy one.   There are too many different builds and regardless of what the reputation of the builder is I don't think there are two B22 that sound the same.   I'll bet you can find ten different B22's here in the forum for sale or presently owned by members and if you put all ten in a room each one would have different brands of caps, resistors, transformers and I bet not one of them would same the same. 

 

[wotts]

Agreed. I would like to square mine off against others just to see the differences.

 
Quote:

I've spent the last 7 months exploring the B22 and decided  never to buy one.   There are too many different builds and regardless of what the reputation of the builder is I don't think there are two B22 that sound the same.   I'll bet you can find ten different B22's here in the forum for sale or presently owned by members and if you put all ten in a room each one would have different brands of caps, resistors, transformers and I bet not one of them would same the same. 

 

 

[Meewoo]

Quote:

But to report on the headphone output of the NAD 7225PE.  The HK was connected to an Adcom GFA-555 mkII 200 watt amp to drive the 91db sensitive Dunlavy SC-IVs.  I switched it out and put in the HK 730...and noticed an increase in bass depth and control and a more layered soundstage....for reasons explained well by RexAeterna...the HK has beefier power supplies and probably a better preamp section than the NAD.
This was confirmed with respect to the headphone output as well; the HK simply had a better match with all my headphones than the NAD.  Simply tells me that overall, the HK is better built and has a different sound signature than the NAD..something I would call more "organic", "stomach-filling".
 
So far, so good...I think I am getting a better feel for how NAD, HK, and Pioneer gear sound like.  Now this leaves me with Sansui and Yamaha units to look at.  I am quite impressed with the HK sound (Pioneer SX-1250...oh, simply another league, no kidding..just don't expect it to go for less than $600 on eBay and thats being freaking lucky).  The "come hither" sound of the HK makes me lust for the siren-call of a Marantz....(I say with conviction that my wallet-shaped ship will crash into the rocks...the bidding on the Marantz' is absolutely nuts...$200-$300 price spikes in the 5 seconds before bidding closes...sheesh!).  I have lost a few bid chances of late for a mint Marantz 2285 and there is a busted 2270 being auctioned off at a dirt cheap price that, if repaired by the guys referenced above for the prices quoted, would be a steal as I would get brand new parts for the same price I would get a "used" good condition working 2270 for.  But my experience with the big SX-1250 makes me want to spring for a Marantz 2325 so I can put the 2325 (at 125 wpc and capable of handling lower speaker impedance loads, to address a point raised earlier) in the place of the HK740 to do the Dunlavys a deep-sea bass dive down the frequency spectrum.  I would then get rid of the NAD 7225PE altogether....

If you like HK sound and prefer big power, why not try a Citation pre-amp with your Adcom 555? I like my citation 11 pre-amp more than 730 and already sold 730. (The buyer first decided to buy my Sony STR-7065, but I let him try the HK 730 and he immediately changed his mind.) If you want to use Citation to drive phones, you need this cable

The HK 730 just can't touch the Citation line in sound quality.
You can get Citation 11 from ePay for around $120 plus shipping (you may need to DIY the headphone cable, check AK for info), pairing with your adcom 555, I think you will be a camper.
 
I have (had) many NADs, my ranking for them is 3140->7020(receiver version of 3020)->3130->7245pe->310.

 

[jc9394]

Which Marantz is better for headphone?  2252b or 2265b?

 

[sling5s]

Everyone says you need at least 2Watts to get the LCD-2 to sound it's best.  How much watts are coming out of the Pioneer SX-737 headphone jack (watts for 50ohms)?
 

 

[DefQon]

Currently rebuilding/refurbishing a vintage JVC-JA S10 integrated amp, the outside shell is in perfect condition and it sounds pretty good, clear and bit on the analytical side which makes my 12AU7 amp bit too muddy and warm like in a comparison. Got a Marantz lying somewhere as well, only problem is that pot doesn't work.

 

[cifani090]

Quote:

I've spent the last 7 months exploring the B22 and decided  never to buy one.   There are too many different builds and regardless of what the reputation of the builder is I don't think there are two B22 that sound the same.   I'll bet you can find ten different B22's here in the forum for sale or presently owned by members and if you put all ten in a room each one would have different brands of caps, resistors, transformers and I bet not one of them would same the same. 

I agree where your coming from, someone should do a DIY board that has interchangeable caps, resistors, and transformers and than someone can do a shootout.
 

 

[jc9394]

On beta22, to me, I really don't care how many versions are out there as long as the one I have is good sounding.  In fact, I highly prefer the beta22 over WA22 with LCD-2.

 

[Wharfrat]

 

I am selling my Marantz as I prefer my Luxman for speakers due to its neutral sound, and since I've sold my HIFIMAN I have no need for the Marantz "warmth" and "punch" it provided for those  headphones. Plus I am interested in doing 5.1 or 7.1 so would really like to buy a new home theater receiver. At this time I am not willing to ship. Here is link to my local ad. Price is at higher end but I will lower as time goes plus Im negotiable especially for Head-Fier. 

I don't think your price is at the high-end at all!  Very fair.   I just lost out on a bid yesterday for a 2250B which went for $181.  It wasn't in as nice a condition as yours nor did it include the fine speakers.   PM me if you ever think of shipping as I am still in the market for a Marantz 2250 and higher numbered models.  The speakers could do duty on my desktop rig....
 
Thanks for the reply to my inquiry about bypassing the preamp section....the bridge pins...jeez! I already use that approach to connect the HK to the Adcom...The terminology helps as I had a vision of me in a mad scientist cloak opening up the innards, clipping a wire here or there and McGyver-ing a paper clip or wire hanger  between parts of the unit....

Meewoo: I have been thinking the same about the Citation...but prices have been all over the place.  $120 sounds reasonable considering my HK 730 was had for $60 and I felt like a thief upon listening to it....I do have a speaker tap adaptor similiarly constructed as shown in your pix, but none of my HP have 4-pin female XLR connectors and would have to be professionally recabled to make the adapter usable and to make matters worse, many HP amps with XLR jacks need you to have a MALE XLR connector on the HP cable!.  So thats 2 X $250+ right there....(reminds me of a boat skipper who complained to me that the cost of boat engine components are inversely proportional to their size and you need to have a backup just in case you're far from land....).  So for now I will have to live with the headphone jack output, resistors and all...
 
Luxman and Yamaha...I will have to go back thru this humongous thread and identify models that ya'lls deem worthy of HP-out use unless somebody wants to be super-duper nice and give me a list of Luxes and Yams to do homework with.  McIntosh is also on my research radar but there is very little commentary posted anywhere on the HP-out quality of McIntosh units....even less so about any particular model. 
 
I primarily am into vintage stuff cuz of the HP quality and price, not to mention the looks and feel of wood and metal...IMHO the vintage receivers and integrateds are no-brainers from a cost-performance perspective.  I am saving up for the big boys, though: Darkstar or Apex with HE-6/LCD-3....when I grow up.