Calling All "Vintage" Integrated/Receiver Owners
Jul 12, 2011 at 11:48 AM Post #1,951 of 19,143
Very exciting, you will have to let us know how the Pioneer compares.
 
Jul 12, 2011 at 12:33 PM Post #1,952 of 19,143


Quote:
Sounds like you need some DeOxit. My Pioneer did the same thing PLUS the power switch was SUPER sticky. Like moving it through molasses. Picked up a small can from RadioShack and blasted the pots and switches. Do this with the faceplate off, obviously, and move the dials and switches the full range of motion to rub off some of the oxidation. It could take a couple of hours to a day for the effects to show fully. 
 
Good luck!
 



Thanks!
 


Quote:
After the deoxit spraying you need to work the controls as AuralRelations says - like several DOZEN times. 



Will do my good man!
 
Jul 12, 2011 at 4:29 PM Post #1,953 of 19,143
Caig, the maker of Deoxit, also makes a product called FaderLube.  It is a good practice to follow Deoxit (after allowing time for the solvent to evaporate) with FaderLube to make the pots/switches move smoothly.
 
Jul 12, 2011 at 4:46 PM Post #1,954 of 19,143
Skylab,
What model/brand is that rack you have your vintage gear in in the picture of the Pioneer speakers if you don't mind my asking?
It looks like about the  size I need to hold some of my gear unless it's a lot wider than it looks.
I'm looking for something not too brutally expensive in the 19d x 24 wide range.
 
BTW I love the stuff you keep showing us!
 
Love my Marantz 2226b and Klipsch Cornwalls as my vintage speakers.
 
Jul 12, 2011 at 5:47 PM Post #1,955 of 19,143
Believe it or not, I bought the rack at Best Buy.  I'm not sure of the exact brand.
 
Jul 12, 2011 at 5:47 PM Post #1,956 of 19,143
Ok, back from applying the D series  deoxit and I have a question.... Should I leave my receiver off for a whole 24hrs to let that stuff work itself until I put on the G series deoxit? or can I use it while its working itself (the d series)?
 
 
edit: and in the process I used the whole deoxit can (for the whole receiver that is) dunno if thats good or bad.... lol
 
Jul 12, 2011 at 6:24 PM Post #1,957 of 19,143
Quote:
Caig, the maker of Deoxit, also makes a product called FaderLube.  It is a good practice to follow Deoxit (after allowing time for the solvent to evaporate) with FaderLube to make the pots/switches move smoothly.

 
I used the D5F-6 and it claims to have lubrication.  Do I still need to use FaderLube?  FaderLube seems to be designed for non-metallic contact.  I wonder if the DeoxIT Gold will be more suitable for the lubrication of metal contact (or maybe just D5F-6 is sufficient)?
 
 
 
Jul 12, 2011 at 8:42 PM Post #1,958 of 19,143
I just went to buy some DeOxit, it came in a two pack with the regular version and gold version for about $15 bucks. I also bought some electrical component dust spray. Unfortunately, while trying to remove the screws underneath the receiver it looks like I stripped the head of one. I've tried with pliers to take it out to no avail. I wasn't sure what to do next so I hooked it up to my speakers and played some blues! Still, I'm not sure how to approach this stripped screw head problem if the head isn't big enough to wrap some needle nose pliers on it.
 
I too am looking for an inexpensive component rack, the first place I went to was Target then Homegoods. Now that Skylab mentions it I have to swing by Best Buy to see what they got, of course I think they'll charge a bit more. 
 
Jul 12, 2011 at 8:44 PM Post #1,959 of 19,143
Yeah, I went to Target first, and they had nothing useable.  So I went to best buy next...the rack was under $200, but of course I had to put it together...
 
Jul 12, 2011 at 9:13 PM Post #1,960 of 19,143


Quote:
IStill, I'm not sure how to approach this stripped screw head problem if the head isn't big enough to wrap some needle nose pliers on it.
 

eh............
I have encountered the same problem.
mad.gif
I was searching online for method yesterday, here is a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_s6CxwFoNM
I don't have those tools, so I just give up. If someone know a good method, please let us know!
 

 
 
 
Jul 12, 2011 at 9:23 PM Post #1,961 of 19,143


Quote:
Skylab,
What model/brand is that rack you have your vintage gear in in the picture of the Pioneer speakers if you don't mind my asking?
It looks like about the  size I need to hold some of my gear unless it's a lot wider than it looks.
I'm looking for something not too brutally expensive in the 19d x 24 wide range.
 
BTW I love the stuff you keep showing us!
 
Love my Marantz 2226b and Klipsch Cornwalls as my vintage speakers.



 
I envy you rprokop64. I used to own a pair of walnut finished Cornwall II back in the late 80s, early 90s and loved them. I think they are the most balanced sound out of the Heritage series. If I had the space to place a vintage system those would be my speakers of choice with either a Marantz like yours or a Pioneer like Skylab.
 
 
Moon Audio Stay updated on Moon Audio at their sponsor profile on Head-Fi.
 
https://www.facebook.com/MoonAudio/ https://twitter.com/MoonAudio https://instagram.com/moonaudio https://www.moon-audio.com/ https://www.youtube.com/@moon-audio sales@moon-audio.com
Jul 13, 2011 at 6:20 PM Post #1,962 of 19,143


Quote:
 
I used the D5F-6 and it claims to have lubrication.  Do I still need to use FaderLube?  FaderLube seems to be designed for non-metallic contact.  I wonder if the DeoxIT Gold will be more suitable for the lubrication of metal contact (or maybe just D5F-6 is sufficient)?
 
 


Am not familiar with the product you used.  Sorry......
 
 
Jul 13, 2011 at 6:31 PM Post #1,963 of 19,143
In AudioKarma.org's Bartertown (subscriber only section) there is are a Pioneer SX-1980, Pioneer SX-1250 and Sansui G-22000 for sale.
 
Jul 13, 2011 at 6:37 PM Post #1,965 of 19,143
There was a cosmetically challenged SX-1250 on for $250, but I am pretty sure it's sold.

The SX-1980 is in very nice condition, but the seller wants $2,200.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top