[AirForceTeacher]

Is this it?

http://www.frys.com/product/3051679?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

 

[vapman]

Is this it?

http://www.frys.com/product/3051679?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

yup thy come in lots of forms and factors, if its deoxit and sprays youre good.

 

[BucketInABucket]

Sometimes to get to tricky places, I like to use a blunt syringe and apply a couple drops instead of spraying directly. Helps prevent accidentally spraying too much too.

 

[vapman]

  Sometimes to get to tricky places, I like to use a blunt syringe and apply a couple drops instead of spraying directly. Helps prevent accidentally spraying too much too.

I got these for thermal paste
 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DXPRTHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Works great for me so far...
 
 
IRIRC deoxit comes iwth a nozzle about that isze so dont just  go full blast an youll be ok....

 

[SpeakerBox]

 

Listening session so far w/ T1 Gen.1 & K702 (Made in Austria) w/ new earpads (from Germany) & HD650.  I especially like the "Presence control" which enables the listener to adjust the 'midrange' frequencies accordingly.  It is especially great with the HD650.  With the damping factor of 50 & the "presence control" there is no veil.  I've read from a very good source that the HD650 is not veiled.  It's most of the amps used w/ the HD650 which are veiled & this amp proves the point. The HD650 is still one of the very best HPs ever made.

 
Interesting comments.  I do believe that sometimes there is a synergistic relationship between two pieces of gear.  I have a pair of HD555s modded to 595s that I was not particularly impressed with - that is until I plugged them into my just recapped Harman Kardon 330A (measly 20WPC) .  They sound awesome there!  Better than they do with my Pioneer SX-1250 to my ears anyway.  Go figure.

 

[BobG55]

 

 

Listening session so far w/ T1 Gen.1 & K702 (Made in Austria) w/ new earpads (from Germany) & HD650.  I especially like the "Presence control" which enables the listener to adjust the 'midrange' frequencies accordingly.  It is especially great with the HD650.  With the damping factor of 50 & the "presence control" there is no veil.  I've read from a very good source that the HD650 is not veiled.  It's most of the amps used w/ the HD650 which are veiled & this amp proves the point. The HD650 is still one of the very best HPs ever made.

 
Interesting comments.  I do believe that sometimes there is a synergistic relationship between two pieces of gear.  I have a pair of HD555s modded to 595s that I was not particularly impressed with - that is until I plugged them into my just recapped Harman Kardon 330A (measly 20WPC) .  They sound awesome there!  Better than they do with my Pioneer SX-1250 to my ears anyway.  Go figure.

Maybe the new caps make a big difference also.  I'm thinking of having the caps replaced w/ new ones for my KA8300.

 

[SpeakerBox]

A recap does make a huge difference, but I have fully recapped both the 1250 and 330A and the latter still sounds better with the 555s.

 

[vapman]

Sansui 8080 or Yamaha R-2000 on Craigslist 34 minutes from me. $350
 
Should i do it?
 

  A recap does make a huge difference, but I have fully recapped both the 1250 and 330A and the latter still sounds better with the 555s.

 
 
do you mean the recap is only noticable on the 555's?

 

[vapman]

Is this the wrong place to discuss newer EL34 based models?

 

[headphones1999]

 
guys how do I clean the parts that got green? not talking about the knobs (those will be replaced after recaping)

 

[SpeakerBox]

 
 
do you mean the recap is only noticable on the 555's?

 
Not at all - both the 330A and SX1250 sounded immensely better everywhere after recap and the 1250 is the better of the two overall.
 
It just happens that there is a certain synergy between the 555s and the Harman Kardon 330A that I find very enjoyable.

 

[Benny-x]

What can I do to fix knob "scratchiness"?

It this on the receiver's side or the knob side?
 
Either way, a good start is to give it a good wash with soap and water first, keep it all opened and air dry. Then Vaseline.

 

[PhoenixG]

  It this on the receiver's side or the knob side?
 
Either way, a good start is to give it a good wash with soap and water first, keep it all opened and air dry. Then Vaseline.

Please don't use any of those products on vintage electronics. Vaseline is conductive and can short or 'make weird' your analog volume pot. It's fine for car battery terminals and that's about it. While some digital volume pots are grease filled to give a more substantial feel, analog ones should never be. Soap and water also shouldn't touch electronics, especially vintage ones with unknown or non-sealed (sometimes literally paper) parts. Soap and water should only be used on cosmetic parts (milled knobs, face plates, etc.).
 
Read through the thread for a link to the deoxit 'how to' page to see how to clean contact points in receivers. That'll take the static noise out of knobs most of the time. To clean dust out of old units, start with compressed air, then move up to pure alcohol (after testing a small spot or two to make sure it won't strip your paint). I like to use q-tips and sponges on sticks for that.

 

[PhoenixG]

  that's exactly the way mine looked before the LED, kinda aqua-marine , the LEDs are bright, but not too bright for me.
my question is, why aren't the red dots in between the numbers red anymore ? is it due to the brightness of the LEDs?

I'd guess you are using monochromatic LED's that are really pure blue. Since the dots rely on reflecting and filtering some red light, they're just not getting what they need. Maybe if you replaced one or two of the blue LED's with white or red ones, your red dots would return.

 

[Benny-x]

Please don't use any of those products on vintage electronics. Vaseline is conductive and can short or 'make weird' your analog volume pot. It's fine for car battery terminals and that's about it. While some digital volume pots are grease filled to give a more substantial feel, analog ones should never be. Soap and water also shouldn't touch electronics, especially vintage ones with unknown or non-sealed (sometimes literally paper) parts. Soap and water should only be used on cosmetic parts (milled knobs, face plates, etc.).

Read through the thread for a link to the deoxit 'how to' page to see how to clean contact points in receivers. That'll take the static noise out of knobs most of the time. To clean dust out of old units, start with compressed air, then move up to pure alcohol (after testing a small spot or two to make sure it won't strip your paint). I like to use q-tips and sponges on sticks for that.

But he said he had a scratchy knob? We're all old timers in here sharing stories and pictures, the guy opened up about a scratchy knob, I felt obligated to share my experience.