[noknok23]

@DBaldock9 I am surprised you cannot play flac with Z1, afaik Z2 and Z1 share same functions (perhaps Z2 can read some higher bitrates files but that's it)

 

[activatorfly]

Another take; I've yet never used the line out of neither z1 or z2, so the line out jack had to go to make room for a larger capacitor.

I used
2 x 220uF 16V Nichicon FG
1 x 2200uF 16V Nichicon KA

All are a tight fit in z2.

Completely subjective impressions are that the sound is clearer and therefore has better positioning and the background is darker. I remember I had the same impressions after putting FG in the z1. I cannot say if the 2200uF one has an effect at all, for example on bass, but I surely don't miss anything in the bass department.

I also bought 2 x 100uF 16V Nichicon ES, they are the exact same size as the FG. But I am afraid I will kill the z2 if I solder anymore, so I won't try those... I don't know which are more recommended, FG or ES, thats why I bought both.

Btw I very highly recommend hificollective when in the EU, very good prices, 3,60 € shipping for small packages and no fees besides that.

Edit: I am over the moon with the sound now.



[/QUOTE

Rather than removing the LO socket - i'd prefer to move battery position lower & use jumper leads to lay the two 220uF 16V Nichicon flat on the pcb - i.e. under the control buttons. Can I use
0.6 mm Solid Copper Core 22 AWG to extend the capacitor wires (or stranded wire)? I've ordered the components from hi-fi collective - hope the configuration works ok!

 

[Ivan TT]

@activatorfly
Several different solutions here:

http://player.ru/showthread.php?t=192336&p=2242889&viewfull=1#post2242889
http://player.ru/showthread.php?t=192336&p=2266142&viewfull=1#post2266142
http://player.ru/showthread.php?t=192336&p=2266184&viewfull=1#post2266184
http://player.ru/showthread.php?t=192336&p=2268495&viewfull=1#post2268495

 

[knudsen]

Rather than removing the LO socket - i'd prefer to move battery position lower & use jumper leads to lay the two 220uF 16V Nichicon flat on the pcb - i.e. under the control buttons. Can I use
0.6 mm Solid Copper Core 22 AWG to extend the capacitor wires (or stranded wire)? I've ordered the components from hi-fi collective - hope the configuration works ok!

Yes I agree, that was what I tried in one of my z1's, 220uF KZ (the very best I believe) in front of the battery. But that operation was what ended up killing it I guess I am much too inexperienced and impatient compared to what I try, I could'nt find a good cable so I just tried a lot of different ones and ended up melting the pcb. I tried with expensive solid core silver from an interconnect, that was completely horrible, but probably because the sleeve and the core were unattached so the sleeve moved back and forth all the time. Then I tried with what I later found out was solid core 800V or something, that was to a similar degree impressingly unsuited for the task, much too thick and stiff.

These caps were also so big I would have to glue isolating tape on their connections to be absolutely sure they would not short each other or on the case. I did'nt know what tape to use for that or if it would be safe to do at all.

But I am very interested also in some cheap cable that is useable for stuff like this

I am sure it will be much easier with the 12.5mm long ones and some suitable cable, I was just not up for that solution.

Also I guess you need some suitable silicone to glue them to the pcb, and to glue the battery on top of the ports at the back, I haven't found that either. Do you have suggestions for that?

 

[Ivan TT]

But that operation was what ended up killing it

Awesome!
What an experience, not for the faint-hearted and let's face it, it was your sacrifice to the god (gods?) of HIFI audio!
I used shrinkwrap for isolation and bluetack to hold things in place.
Cable from computer looms (like IDE cable) is not bad, I had good experience with headphones cable, luckily I have a bit after killing a pair of EMX500 in the process of trying to retrofit LT1010 buffers in my Z2 (LT1010 I destroyed in the process too, by the way).
At least we are not modding Lotoo Paw Gold

 

[knudsen]

Awesome!
What an experience, not for the faint-hearted and let's face it, it was your sacrifice to the god (gods?) of HIFI audio!
I used shrinkwrap for isolation and bluetack to hold things in place.
Cable from computer looms (like IDE cable) is not bad, I had good experience with headphones cable, luckily I have a bit after killing a pair of EMX500 in the process of trying to retrofit LT1010 buffers in my Z2 (LT1010 I destroyed in the process too, by the way).
At least we are not modding Lotoo Paw Gold

Haha exactly In my country, I can sacrifice a z1 every 2 weeks for the price of going to the gym for 1 month, I know which I have more fun with

I think its about lowering the expectations, if just I and the tools themselves survive its a success Ah its not true, I get pretty mad at myself if its my own fault, which it often is... but to learn, one must make errors.

Are you sure bluetac won't destroy the component in the long run? I've read not every silicone can be used, it must be acidic-free or something in order to be safe

 

[Ivan TT]

Haha exactly In my country, I can sacrifice a z1 every 2 weeks for the price of going to the gym for 1 month, I know which I have more fun with

Exactly, can one get Z1 subscription? Like having one sent every fortnight, billed on credit card, 12 month term, first month free?

I think its about lowering the expectations, if just I and the tools themselves survive its a success Ah its not true, I get pretty mad at myself if its my own fault, which it often is... but to learn, one must make errors.

Same here, childhood traumas, &^T&$^T*#&!
Just listen to Asking Alexandria - Poison, it helps (source: personal experience).

Are you sure bluetac won't destroy the component in the long run? I've read not every silicone can be used, it must be acidic-free or something in order to be safe

I have Z2 subscription LOL
I'm more concerned about not peeling off PCB traces, you know how you remove a poster of a wall and it comes off with a piece of concrete, bluetack firmly in place?
I repeat: we are not modding Lotoo Paw Gold here, worst case I'll just buy another one.
Or two.

PS: did you at least salvage that awesome wooden knob you had on your Z1?

 

[Ivan TT]

I think its about lowering the expectations, if just I and the tools themselves survive its a success

Now, to rise the bar up...
How about replacing LPF SOIC8 opamp?
Challenge accepted?

 

[knudsen]

PS: did you at least salvage that awesome wooden knob you had on your Z1?

Knob is alright yes, thanks for asking It is still a little shaken though, understandably. I've gotten this for my remaining z1, it is nice and solid but not 100% centered when turning. I think it is meant to be fitted on a solid round shaft, not one with grooves in it like zishans use

 

[knudsen]

Now, to rise the bar up...
How about replacing LPF SOIC8 opamp?
Challenge accepted?

Haha, I've seen that is much recommended... but no, thats not for me atm

 

[Ivan TT]

my remaining z1

So you had two???!!!
I gave one away as a gift and another one is gathering dust...

it is nice and solid but not 100% centered when turning

First world problems
I placed a washer inside the shaft, to keep it from deforming when tightening hex screw up.

Haha, I've seen that is much recommended... but no, thats not for me atm

Come on, YOLO, what can go wrong?
Anyway, I'll give it a go, can hardly imagine how improved Z2 would sound like, given that it sounds absolutely awesome on stock LPF opamp ATM.
PS: ordered LME49720MAX

 

[Cyberpunk2077]

Could anyone reupload fw file ?

 

[DBaldock9]

Tried, but could not make it work, sorry.
Definitely .cue files work though, hope it helps.

Currently, what I've done, for easier navigation, without a screen, is to create one WAV file per album - and that allows the Prev and Next buttons to skip from album to album, but not track to track.
No Cue File is needed, since once you start playing the single WAV file, it plays straight through, from beginning to end, in the order that the Tracks were combined into the file.

In order to verify that Cue Files work, you would have had to combine multiple Tracks into one large music file.
If you're doing that, do you still have the ability to skip forward / backward from one track to another?

A playlist just points to where tracks are located, within the folder structure - so the tracks are still separate, rather than combined into one large file per album.
Thus, two different Playlists could refer to the same set of Tracks, in a different order, without having to combine the Tracks into single WAV files, one each for the two different orders of playback.

 

[golov17]

Could anyone reupload fw file ?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9fNdT9kI077cUtkOWRtTDBicmM/view?usp=drivesdk

 

[activatorfly]

Yes I agree, that was what I tried in one of my z1's, 220uF KZ (the very best I believe) in front of the battery. But that operation was what ended up killing it I guess I am much too inexperienced and impatient compared to what I try, I could'nt find a good cable so I just tried a lot of different ones and ended up melting the pcb. I tried with expensive solid core silver from an interconnect, that was completely horrible, but probably because the sleeve and the core were unattached so the sleeve moved back and forth all the time. Then I tried with what I later found out was solid core 800V or something, that was to a similar degree impressingly unsuited for the task, much too thick and stiff.

These caps were also so big I would have to glue isolating tape on their connections to be absolutely sure they would not short each other or on the case. I did'nt know what tape to use for that or if it would be safe to do at all.

But I am very interested also in some cheap cable that is useable for stuff like this

I am sure it will be much easier with the 12.5mm long ones and some suitable cable, I was just not up for that solution.

Also I guess you need some suitable silicone to glue them to the pcb, and to glue the battery on top of the ports at the back, I haven't found that either. Do you have suggestions for that?

0.6mm wire was recommended by hifi collective - so I'll be using this next week:
https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-06-mm-solid-copper-core-22-awg-2-amp-bell-wire-10m-red-bl92a

I'll try evo-stick timebond glue or double sided tape to affix them to the pcb + maybe duct tape to isolate the connections? (Any other suggestions would be welcome....)

I've already lifted the battery at an angle, resting on the switches & adjacent to the the backplate - which leaves plenty of room for cap placement:-