Bluedio R+ Bluetooth 4.0 Headphones with NFC and APT-X
Jan 29, 2014 at 9:43 AM Post #46 of 337
Has anyone managed to pair these headphones to a bluetooth transmitter adapter ? I've tried 2 and I cannot get this to pair with the Logitech wireless adapter or the other which is a JUSTOP BTR006 Bluetooth Wireless Stereo Audio Receiver With 3.5MM Jack, Universal Adapter For Speakers, it pairs with my iPhone with no issues.
 
Jan 31, 2014 at 3:35 PM Post #47 of 337
I plan on buying a pair of these. Just curious what the sound quality is playing files straight from an SD card with the headphone's built in player. It's not a deal breaker for me either way but would like some input if anyone has used this function.
 
Feb 1, 2014 at 8:39 AM Post #48 of 337
  Thanks for this information. I've found a site that I can buy the USB-SPI from in english. Unfortunately your first link no longer works. I just purchased the R+ and will probably be getting the SPI tool to adjust the headphones thanks to all the information in this thread.

 
HakanaiSeishin,
 
Do you have a link to the USB-SPI tool that you found? I'm dying to drop the bass and up the mids on these!!
 
Has anyone had a go at opening them up without destroying them?
 
Feb 1, 2014 at 9:12 AM Post #49 of 337
I removed the felt over the tweeters. It really even out the sound, not so base heavy. It was very easy to do. Just pull off the ear pads,( just by pulling on them,then remove the clip by popping it off, cut the felt over the tweeters, attach the ear pads to the clip and snap the clip back into place. Took about 5 mins per side and well worth it.

I just ordered another pair (the legend silver) off of eBay. I love them.
 
Feb 1, 2014 at 9:19 AM Post #50 of 337
I removed the felt over the tweeters. It really even out the sound, not so base heavy. It was very easy to do. Just pull off the ear pads,( just by pulling on them,then remove the clip by popping it off, cut the felt over the tweeters, attach the ear pads to the clip and snap the clip back into place. Took about 5 mins per side and well worth it.

I just ordered another pair (the legend silver) off of eBay. I love them.

I did the same, but still feel that they have WAY too much bass, especially when up loud.
 
I wish spotify had an EQ. On windows there is an EQ addin for spotify and I cut the bass by 4-5dB and up the mids about 3dB!.
 
Feb 2, 2014 at 12:43 PM Post #51 of 337
I actually have the SPI tool now but unfortunately they don't include the custom micro-B male to male cable that is proprietary to this device to make it work with the headphones. I'm trying to contact them to send me one but I have a feeling I won't get anywhere, in addition they're all on vacation til the 7th. Fortunately I have had time to mess with the headphones themselves while I wait and there's a few things I know for sure from talking with them, using ADB on my phone, and extensive research:
 
- aptX does not work with smart phones, they said so themselves. They said it has something to do with the control buttons not being compatible with the data stream that is sent through aptX. They programmed them to turn aptX off if the device connected is a phone. I don't know why they did this and they personally told me that you can turn that back on with the SPI tool. I had a pair of Sony headphones that worked with aptX on my phone just fine but I returned them because the sound wasn't work the price. I confirmed through ADB that it doesn't work with the phone.
 
- the bass is much higher when using bluetooth than the wire, probably because of the limited frequency range of the standard bluetooth A2DP protocol. If I had another aptX device that wasn't a smart phone I could tell you if that's remedied through aptX but I don't, yet.
 
- The 3 biggest things I have done to drastically equalize the sound coming from these headphones are; 1) remove the foam over the tweeters, 2) use the 3.5mm wire, and 3) (biggest one imo) If your phone has it, turn on adapt sound and run through the setup process where it asks you to listen to beeps and say whether you heard them. Do it in a quiet environment and it should reduce the bass to an acceptable level without reducing the overall quality of audio like adjusting the sound through an app's software EQ (the default level literally causes me ear pain after about 20 minutes.)
 
On another note I'm pretty frustrated with the way Bluedio designed the firmware in these things, and even more frustrated at the whole acquisition of this device to program it. The amouther of hardware in the SPI is about the size of two postage stamps, they could have included it with the headphones for almost no cost.
 
Here's a picture of my first attempt (from another forum) to jerry ring a cable up to the SPI (red lights) which is just custom hardware housed in a bluedio external battery pack. Needless to say it didn't work because the cable is a custom 5 wire micro b M/M cable that has all 5 wires, typical micro-B cables only have 4, but 5 pin connectors. I've been thinking of ripping apart a couple cables and making my own but will wait for bluedio's response first.
 
http://goo.gl/DkyuUL
 
Feb 4, 2014 at 12:43 AM Post #53 of 337
HakanaiSeishin,
 
Cheers for that.
 
I have done the foam mod, and it helped a bit (but my ears push against the tweeters now).
Unfortunatly, audio wise, I'm using an iPhone with does not have the Adapt sound. It has a Bass reduce profile which is quite good, but it does not work for 3rd party applications like Spotify :frowning2:
 
Using the 3.5mm cable sounds very different, but the amp in the iPhone is CRAP and when using the 3.5mm cable they really need an amp. When I am using my computer I use the USB connection. They arnt have a little less bass when using USB, but I get to use the internal amp and dac in the headphones. (on a side note, there appears to be no EQ profiles when using USB).
 
With the Bluedio USB-SPI, Can you provide a picture of the ports on the device? From your picture it looks like both the USB cables (1 from the device to the PC and 1 from the device to the headphones) have plugs that can be removed. Are the both USB A sockets? If so, have you tried using the USB A to Micro USB cable that comes with the headphones to charge/use as a USB audio device?
 
Cam
 
Feb 4, 2014 at 2:44 AM Post #54 of 337

I suspect that you are "TD854" on AVS Forums.
 
Would this work for you? It's not a Male to Male, but it is USB Female Mini 5 Pin to male micro 5 Pin. If you used the Male Micro to Male Micro that I think that the SPI works with and put this on the end it should work as it will be 5 Pin all the way through.
 
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-USB-Female-to-Micro-USB-Male-Adaptor-Convertor-Connector-/251095680011
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-USB-to-micro-USB-data-cable-adapter-For-Motorola-compact-design-/130898714338
 
Feb 4, 2014 at 10:51 PM Post #55 of 337
  I suspect that you are "TD854" on AVS Forums.
 
Would this work for you? It's not a Male to Male, but it is USB Female Mini 5 Pin to male micro 5 Pin. If you used the Male Micro to Male Micro that I think that the SPI works with and put this on the end it should work as it will be 5 Pin all the way through.
 
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-USB-Female-to-Micro-USB-Male-Adaptor-Convertor-Connector-/251095680011
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-USB-to-micro-USB-data-cable-adapter-For-Motorola-compact-design-/130898714338

I bought something similar to that and am still waiting on it. The problem is from what I've read about USB cables, even though the connector for mini and micro B has 4 pins, one of the pins is almost always unwired and/or used as a ground. With the SPI it works like this:
 
Computer (USB A) >> SPI (USB A) and then SPI (Micro B) >> Headphones (Micro B)
 
The problem here is that the micro B cable that was supposed to be included, is as far as I can tell, completely custom. The reason I say this is that if you notice there is another set of 6 connections of bare wires that would be used to program the CSR chip if you had it outside of the casing of the headphones. My assumption here is that they wired those 6 connections through the micro B port to make it a little more user friendly to communicate with the CSR board instead of having to use bare wires. So what I'm thinking is they used the 5 pins and additionally, the housing of the usb connector to make up the 6 pin connection. I actually tried to rip apart the SPI to see how the connector is wired for the micro-b but the thing is impossible to get apart.
 
Anyway, I'll know in a number of days if the mini to micro connector works, I already have the cable to go with it bit if it's wired 4 pin it most likely will not work. On the bright side I know for sure the SPI is communicating with the PC as the red lights flash when it's polling, I also know it's outputting "something" to the headphones when it tries to poll, even through the cable that doesn't work, as I hear quiet feedback through the speakers of the headphones during polling.
 
Feb 4, 2014 at 11:36 PM Post #56 of 337
  I bought something similar to that and am still waiting on it. The problem is from what I've read about USB cables, even though the connector for mini and micro B has 4 pins, one of the pins is almost always unwired and/or used as a ground. With the SPI it works like this:
 
Computer (USB A) >> SPI (USB A) and then SPI (Micro B) >> Headphones (Micro B)
 
The problem here is that the micro B cable that was supposed to be included, is as far as I can tell, completely custom. The reason I say this is that if you notice there is another set of 6 connections of bare wires that would be used to program the CSR chip if you had it outside of the casing of the headphones. My assumption here is that they wired those 6 connections through the micro B port to make it a little more user friendly to communicate with the CSR board instead of having to use bare wires. So what I'm thinking is they used the 5 pins and additionally, the housing of the usb connector to make up the 6 pin connection. I actually tried to rip apart the SPI to see how the connector is wired for the micro-b but the thing is impossible to get apart.
 
Anyway, I'll know in a number of days if the mini to micro connector works, I already have the cable to go with it bit if it's wired 4 pin it most likely will not work. On the bright side I know for sure the SPI is communicating with the PC as the red lights flash when it's polling, I also know it's outputting "something" to the headphones when it tries to poll, even through the cable that doesn't work, as I hear quiet feedback through the speakers of the headphones during polling.

 
I'll wait until you get your 5 Pin Mini to 5 Pin Micro.
 
I don't think they wired it that way. The datasheet for the CSR talks about the SPI interface being shared, and when you want to put the device in to SPI debug and programming you need to pull a pin on the IC high.
 
 
From Data Sheet:
 
Section 9 describes the various digital audio interfaces multiplexed on the PCM1 interface. The PCM1 interface also share the same physical set of pins with the SPI interface. Either interface is selected using CPI_PCM#:
* SPI_PCM# = 1 selects the SPI
* SPI_PCM# = 2 selects the PCM
 
Also:
 
7.3 "To use the SPI interface, the SPI/PCM# line requires the option of being pulled high externally.
CSR provides development and production tools to communicate over SPI from a PC, although a level translator circuit is often required. All are available from CSR."
 
 
I suspect (and this is a MASSIVE guess) that Bluedio have put an additional circuit between the USB header on the headphones and the CSR 8645 IC. Potentially this is to allow them to use their Bluedio USB SPI in this way as the CSR8645 suggests presenting the SPI pins from the IC to some headers that are accessible during production. I believe that CSR didn't intend end user programming of the BlueCore. Also, the CSR SPI tools only have the bare wires shown on the Bluedio SPI. (I was looking into finding a CSR SPI and cracking them open to access the headers directly. I didnt even consider that Bluedio have this SPI with a USB interface.) Given that the user manual mentions end user modification of the EQ, their SPI has USB and their manual on changing the EQ says to plug in the USB cable, I am starting to think that this will be possible, using a 5pin to 5pin cable. 
 
Now that I have seen this I have a renewed desire to get this EQ sorted as attempting to open them up was unsuccessfull (I felt like they were about to break when trying to open up the side.
 
Feb 5, 2014 at 6:17 PM Post #57 of 337
Unfortunately this doesn't work 
frown.gif

 
http://i.imgur.com/6EqnvG5.jpg
 
I tried switching the cable around if that matters, still didn't work, PS Tool detects the SPI but not the CSR chip.
 
Edit: Finally found a micro-B M/M cable I can buy online, but it's going to take a while to get here and may not even work, but I'll keep trying, for science.
 
Feb 5, 2014 at 9:36 PM Post #58 of 337
Following this thresd INTENTLY !! Just received my bluedio r+ and love them but that bass HAS to be cut !!! If anyone can figure out how a mere mortal can flash this thing or get some of that bass cut without removing foam, PLEASE let us know ! Thanks for all your efforts !!
 
Feb 5, 2014 at 10:20 PM Post #59 of 337
  Unfortunately this doesn't work 
frown.gif

 
http://i.imgur.com/6EqnvG5.jpg
 
I tried switching the cable around if that matters, still didn't work, PS Tool detects the SPI but not the CSR chip.
 
Edit: Finally found a micro-B M/M cable I can buy online, but it's going to take a while to get here and may not even work, but I'll keep trying, for science.

 
What is the cable combination in that picture?
 
Is it a Male to Male Mini USB Cable? Was it sold as 5 Pin to 5 Pin?
 
Feb 6, 2014 at 4:39 PM Post #60 of 337
after reading all the comments and attempts to remedy the extra bass on these headphones, (since i own a pair as well... =) got it today) i already removed the foam from them, fairly easy to do even though i was a bit skeptical about doing so with my new toy. and still didn't hear an enormous difference. 
I had forgotten about the EQ on my Iphone 5 (where i mainly listen to my music) and switched it to Bass Reducer, which now sounds powerful and equalized. Can get super loud without overpowering the bass or putting distortion to the drives. Extremely happy with this EQ, since i can get it to work with apple products without having to go through the SPI device mentioned in other notes. 
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top