[bavinck]

  At that price I would be fine with refurbished, lol. But yeah, maybe some error.

Their description of their store said everything is brand new and authentic. I pulled the trigger on it. A bit risky, but for the price worst case I return them. Amazon is so easy to take a risk with.

 

[AzraelDarkangel]

Both store links disappeared, now it just links to the regular $600 retail price.

 

[bavinck]

  Both store links disappeared, now it just links to the regular $600 retail price.

The second link disappeared because I bought it!!

 

[JerseyD]

That was below dealer cost, so may be stolen goods. Beware.

 

[amaridev]

Hi,
is someone here who has modded the 1770 to balanced cabling? 
I am kinda looking for a 4 pin mini xlr in black that has the same measurements like the original connector from beyerdynamic. 

 

[foreverzer0]

Hi,
is someone here who has modded the 1770 to balanced cabling? 
I am kinda looking for a 4 pin mini xlr in black that has the same measurements like the original connector from beyerdynamic. 

I would imagine this wouldn't be that hard since the mini xlr already has 4 pins for I'm guessing the L+/L-/R+R-, however someone would need to test and confirm the correct pin out. Or ask Beyer directly but I've never had a response from them when I emailed via their contact form.

Edit: Actually nevermind! Too early on a Monday here. The input is 3-pin xlr. For an experienced DIYer it doesn't look to be that hard though to copy the left ear cup to the right and modify the wiring; it could be like the Audeze stye.

 

[Soundsgoodtome]

  To show what I mean by it being misaligned, here is what it looks like on my left driver.
 

Hey guys I'm trying to think of how I can make my DT1770 balanced. This looks like the input for the left driver and an interconnect for the right channel, correct? So I can run 4 wires into the left cup and then distribute the left and right signals and their grounds. Or does that board need to be in play for the right channel to properly work?

 

[foreverzer0]

 
Hey guys I'm trying to think of how I can make my DT1770 balanced. This looks like the input for the left driver and an interconnect for the right channel, correct? So I can run 4 wires into the left cup and then distribute the left and right signals and their grounds. Or does that board need to be in play for the right channel to properly work?

 
I think you'd have to figure out which set of wires correspond to which speaker, then replace the 3-pin XLR connector with another type that can support 4 signals and rewire. Otherwise, drill a hole into the other housing and configure it like Audeze headphones.

 

[Soundsgoodtome]

   
I think you'd have to figure out which set of wires correspond to which speaker, then replace the 3-pin XLR connector with another type that can support 4 signals and rewire. Otherwise, drill a hole into the other housing and configure it like Audeze headphones.

I'm good with drilling a hole, I'd rather use the stock routing even if that means a different type of cable from one headphone to another. I'll run a meter to see which cable is - on that board for both left and right and then I'll know which is the + (while it's still configured stock). From there I know which way to distribute 4 wires but I'm asking if the board needs to be in play for the right channel to work properly or I can wire direct to the cables running to the right cup.

 

[foreverzer0]

Been a while since I last opened the driver housing, it's pretty easy though. Also, I think it'll be clearer once you open it. I want to say the drivers are identical for manufacturing purposes, so that board should be the same on both, with the one connector being the signal input (with L+, R+, Shared Ground) and the other connector as a signal split output for R+, R-. So on the left driver, I think you can leave the signal split output side disconnected and connect R+/R- directly to your 4-pin male input.
 
Audeze style (hole drilling on right driver) would allow for even higher degree of potential though -- if you were to remove the boards and wiring completely and add your own upgraded internal wiring directly to the drivers (maybe some teflon tubed silver).

 

[amaridev]

Ahh, thanks for the picture. Let us know when you have metered the interconnect on the driver. Also the polarity...just from the colours I am not quite sure about the phase. I should really buy my own multimeter ^^
 
I think I'll handle it like Soundsgoodtome, don't want to drill a hole in the right can. I kinda like the single sided connection and it is easy to mod, so why not keep it. We could go even further and also change the wiring on the headband with some OCC Teflon cable, but honestly I doubt this would make a big difference soundwise. 
 
Anybody found high quality 4 pin xlr yet? I don't know where I can get these. On ebay I found a few in silver. But I am not sure if there build of same quality as the beyerdynamic connector. 
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Mini-XLR-Frontmontage-Einbaustecker-Kupplung-3-4-5-6-polig-/281634804186?var=&hash=item4192be11damCtl-VFaqvmBjvOi8Nsbivw

 

[foreverzer0]

  Ahh, thanks for the picture. Let us know when you have metered the interconnect on the driver. Also the polarity...just from the colours I am not quite sure about the phase. I should really buy my own multimeter ^^
 
I think I'll handle it like Soundsgoodtome, don't want to drill a hole in the right can. I kinda like the single sided connection and it is easy to mod, so why not keep it. We could go even further and also change the wiring on the headband with some OCC Teflon cable, but honestly I doubt this would make a big difference soundwise. 
 
Anybody found high quality 4 pin xlr yet? I don't know where I can get these. On ebay I found a few in silver. But I am not sure if there build of same quality as the beyerdynamic connector. 
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Mini-XLR-Frontmontage-Einbaustecker-Kupplung-3-4-5-6-polig-/281634804186?var=&hash=item4192be11damCtl-VFaqvmBjvOi8Nsbivw

While you should verify, I would guess the initial (left can) 3 wire input of white, red, black would be l+, r+, gnd; the second input (right can) of white/red would be l-/l+.

 

[ostewart]

Right on time for the IFA trade show in Berlin we complete our professional headphone portfolio
with an open-back flagship model:

The DT 1990 PRO.

As high end reference headphones the DT 1990 PROs take their place alongside
the closed DT 1770 PRO in the beyerdynamic professional line.

The DT 1990 PRO reference headphones combine these decades of expertise
in headphone technology with the latest Tesla driver technology in an open-back design.

Together with an ingenious open-back design, the high-resolution Tesla drivers ensure a wide,
dynamic and extremely natural stereo image. Designed for professionals, the DT 1990 PROs
are the perfect headphones for ambitious listening, mixing and mastering.


The DT 1990 PRO is having its premiere during the IFA in Berlin, from the 2nd to 7th September 2016.
 

 

[Slaphead]

[COLOR=000001]Right on time for the IFA trade show in Berlin we complete our professional headphone portfolio

with an open-back flagship model:

The DT 1990 PRO.


As high end reference headphones the DT 1990 PROs take their place alongside

the closed DT 1770 PRO in the beyerdynamic professional line.


The DT 1990 PRO reference headphones combine these decades of expertise

in headphone technology with the latest Tesla driver technology in an open-back design.


Together with an ingenious open-back design, the high-resolution Tesla drivers ensure a wide,

dynamic and extremely natural stereo image. Designed for professionals, the DT 1990 PROs

are the perfect headphones for ambitious listening, mixing and mastering.[/COLOR]


[COLOR=FF0000]The DT 1990 PRO is having its premiere during the IFA in Berlin, from the 2nd to 7th September 2016.[/COLOR]

[COLOR=000001]

[/COLOR]

My order will be going in ASAP.

 

[gonzfi]

Will this usurp the T1 as the main flagship?