[Liu Junyuan]

   
Actually, I feel like the amp holds up quite well.  Even just using the SE output, there was a notable improvement in soundstage and overall presence from my old amp (NFB-15.32 built-in amp), which I found to be pretty on par with my old Matrix M-Stage.  I also noted similar results when comparing the amp stage to the Geek Out SE (which uses the GO 1000's amp), though obviously there's an even bigger difference in output there.
 
Obviously, going to the balanced output gives even more gains.
 
Those are some nice amps you listed.  What DAC would you use them with, if you don't get the A-GD?  I was also considering the Gustard at one point.  If I hadn't been set on going balanced with my next DAC and Amp, I probably would have gotten that one.  Of course, knowing what I know now, I might just get the NFB-29.  It's really hard to beat the value of the A-GD options.  I just don't see any other combination of DAC's and Amps that are on par for the price.
 
I haven't heard enough high end DAC's and Amps to back up this next statement, but I do have a theory:  like with all the headphones I've tried in the $200ish range, I think that if you've done all the research and now you're agonizing over small differences, you should just pick one and get it.  I'm sure you'll be pleased with any of the ones you get, especially if you're not A/B'ing directly with the other choices.  (And if you are A/B'ing, it shouldn't be a difficult choice anyways.)

Thanks for the information. I would use the DAC on the A-GD, but I would also roll between it and my Gungnir, to change things up when I wanted. The advantage of going with the A-GD is that I would have more options as well as a nice SS amp.

 

[scizzro]

Well I went to turn on my 28 this morning only to find it keep turning itself off. If I hold in the power switch, it stays on fine, but when I release it, it powers down.

 
Guess I'll shoot them an e-mail..

 

[jodgey4]

As a temporary measure, you can open up the 28 by removing the top panel (including cutting the warranty sticker) and see if anythins is wrong with the switch. It won't void anything, I'm told Kingwa just puts the sticker on it so it doesn't ever get opened up during customs as a safety precaution. You could play with the warmth jumpers at the same time too while it's open if ya wanted.

 

[scizzro]

  As a temporary measure, you can open up the 28 by removing the top panel (including cutting the warranty sticker) and see if anythins is wrong with the switch. It won't void anything, I'm told Kingwa just puts the sticker on it so it doesn't ever get opened up during customs as a safety precaution. You could play with the warmth jumpers at the same time too while it's open if ya wanted.

I told them I was comfortable checking the switch with a meter in the e-mail if that was OK. I'd much rather them just send me out a new switch than ship the damn thing to China and back, even if it's on their dime.
 
You using the jumpers?

 

[jodgey4]

I have used the jumpers before, it make my cans kinda gain that 'Sennhesier' sound if you know what I mean, warmer midbass that sounded a little wet, softer highs, still managed to not sound veiled though. And I don't think the frequency response was changed, that's just where I noticed it the most for whatever reason. I didn't try it for long... the seemingly more clear normal sound was just too special for me to pass up. I think I'd rather trade my 2.2F's for 2.2 non-F's instead of playing with jumpers.

 

[scizzro]

Well I got permission from them to test the switch. The switch is acting as a momentary switch rather than a latching switch, and I'm assuming that's faulty. Can anyone else confirm that?
 
I wanted to take the switch out to examine it but I can't get it out of the chassis. I don't have a low profile screwdriver to reach the second screw (hidden in the photo, where the arrow is pointing, parallel with the upper standoff). I really don't want to take the inner boards out just to reach the screw =S. Edit** : The front panel comes off with the removal of the 6 exterior screws holding it on. Makes getting to the screws much easier.
 

 

[Kingwa]

It is worth to try  change the unit connect to other power outlet on wall direct, replace other power cable for check.


This is the ALPS switch, it had the world grade quality, can't easy fault in the short time.

 

[scizzro]

  It is world to try  change the unit connect to other power outlet on wall direct, replace other power cable for check.
This is the ALPS switch, it had the world grade quality, can't easy fault in the short time.

Thank you for the reply Kingwa.
 
Through e-mail, we determined it was a bad switch. For future reference, this is what it looked like
 

 

[jimmychan]

That is the spring/hook in the switch that fails. Sometimes just the parts loosen up.

 

[elwappo99]

 

  It is world to try  change the unit connect to other power outlet on wall direct, replace other power cable for check.
This is the ALPS switch, it had the world grade quality, can't easy fault in the short time.

Thank you for the reply Kingwa.
 
Through e-mail, we determined it was a bad switch. For future reference, this is what it looked like
 

 
Meh, I see no problem. Just keep one finger on the power switch 

 
 

  It is world to try  change the unit connect to other power outlet on wall direct, replace other power cable for check.
This is the ALPS switch, it had the world grade quality, can't easy fault in the short time.

 
Always nice to see you post on here 

 

 

[Rockcoon]

I seriously wantet that 28th for my he500. But its no good if dac go and cover itself with fire immediately after unboxing. Or everything is not so bad?

 

[WhiskeyJacks]

  Looks pretty dope to me!  I have some Hifiman connectors sitting around for my HE-500 but haven't found time to make a cable for them yet. 
 
Amen to the wife, my life would be insane, and not in a good way without mine =)   I can't tell you how many times my wife has caught me at 2 am with a soldering iron being like "what the hell man!"
 
Glad you got the balanced working too - I think it really adds that Je ne sais qois (spelling???) with the NFB-28

The NFB 28 is a fantastic all in one unit for the price, I have tried at least a dozen dacs and amps this past year and have settled on this unit for as long as it will last me. It is top notch for the price. SE output sounds great, decent power and good speed and clarity. However, my modded he-560s out of the balanced 4pin xlr sounds just that bit more detail, speed, and obviously more power at the lower impedances such as the Hifiman series.
 
Are you still rocking your NFB28 Zach, and how have you been man

 

[Miracle1980]

Any other feedback regarding the jumpers for the warmer sound? I would be more interested in what you "miss" once you use them. I understood that the sound would be warmer with softer highs... But on the other hand will i feel lacking something else?

 

[conquerator2]

Any other feedback regarding the jumpers for the warmer sound? I would be more interested in what you "miss" once you use them. I understood that the sound would be warmer with softer highs... But on the other hand will i feel lacking something else?

I tried changing the jumpers on the SA31SE. I assume the effect is similar - smoother overall tonality, slightly more punch to the low frequencies, slight loss of details. IMO. YMMV.
I prefer neutral, but it is a nice option to have. 

 

[Miracle1980]

Using only the NFB-28 with usb (connected to a computer) will i have some benefits purchasing the Audio-GD Digital Interface 2014?  Or this is meant to be used with other devices (decoder, TV, etc.)?
Thanks