[Uroboros]

Recently purchased a NFB-11.28 which arrived today. MY first brand new Audio-gd DAC So far I'm just using it with the optical input which brings me to a question. Anyone who happens to have this hooked up to the optical in, what cables might you be using. Seems the optical cable I was using on a previous NFB doesn't go in far enough to "snap". Guess the optical input is recessed ever so slightly on the 2017 NFB-11.28. I got some new cables coming in that hopefully will work better, but has anyone else run into this? TIA

 

[Elder]

I also had this problem with an optical cable which have a screw on metal jacket over the connector body. I took the jacket out and the problem was solved.

The metal jacket was just a finishing detail to hide the junction of the cable sheath with the connector body. The junction is done with a piece of plastic fused over the sheath and the connector forming a sort of strain relief piece. In the case of my cable, this joint is quite ugly. The metal finishing piece hides this ugly junction and reinforce the connector for handling.

I have other cables that do not have the metal part. They just fit right and firmly.

 

[Uroboros]

Thanks for the info. Turns out the standard Amazon cables fit fine. The fancier cables I bought fit as well if I screw off the shroud. But I'll stick with the cheap Amazon cables for now

 

[Zimtron]

I'm not sure if this is buried in this thread somewhere but the drivers for the latest version of USB are located here:

http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/dac/Amanero/AmaneroEN.htm

I used several guides on how to "properly" install the drivers on Windows 10 with no success. Not sure why they would make this so difficult.

 

[bloodhawk]

I'm not sure if this is buried in this thread somewhere but the drivers for the latest version of USB are located here:

http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/dac/Amanero/AmaneroEN.htm

I used several guides on how to "properly" install the drivers on Windows 10 with no success. Not sure why they would make this so difficult.

Mine works just fine Plug and Play. Didnt need to install drivers. But did that later on just in case.

 

[Zimtron]

Mine works just fine Plug and Play. Didnt need to install drivers. But did that later on just in case.

That's interesting, are you running 64bit?

Very impressed with this device so far, zero noise floor and incredibly neutral ... very good pairing with the HD600.

 

[bloodhawk]

That's interesting, are you running 64bit?

Very impressed with this device so far, zero noise floor and incredibly neutral ... very good pairing with the HD600.

Yep Windows 10 Pro 64 Bit.

 

[Zimtron]

Re listening to some CD rips I can no longer hear the noise floor I did with my Modi 2 Uber, I thought the entire time it was a poor recording on certain albums.

This thing makes Schiit look like crap.

 

[bloodhawk]

Re listening to some CD rips I can no longer hear the noise floor I did with my Modi 2 Uber, I thought the entire time it was a poor recording on certain albums.

This thing makes Schiit look like ****.

haha so true! I even compared the Multi Bit version, and actually found the 11.28 to be better. Even before that i couldn't tell any difference between the normal and multibit version to be honest.

 

[vemo100]

haha so true! I even compared the Multi Bit version, and actually found the 11.28 to be better. Even before that i couldn't tell any difference between the normal and multibit version to be honest.

I agree. I compared the Modi Multibit/Magni 3 with the 11.28 and I favor the 11.28. The Schiit combo's bass is a little bit boomy and the sound is more "digital" than natural to my ears.

 

[Zimtron]

haha so true! I even compared the Multi Bit version, and actually found the 11.28 to be better. Even before that i couldn't tell any difference between the normal and multibit version to be honest.

I was having audio dropouts with the Modi, come to find out it was a known issue. Top that off with the low quality switch on the front and the PITA it is having a separate amp/dac it was time to move on.

 

[Jokanok]

Increasing NFB-11 output to its maximum 5V (by means of variable output mode) means an increase of only 6dB. If the WA3 valved (or tubed, if you prefer) input driver is before the volume control, then increasing the input level may overdrive the valve a little bit. Overdriving a valve will cause some distortion, but valve distortion is, sometimes, pleasing. It may add some color and warmth, but it will alter the sound. Too much overdrive will cause compression and distortion like the ones we use to see (or hear) from guitar amps and pedals.

I did not find the input range specifications for the WA3 input, but some amps can support up to 10Vrms. If this is the case, you will not be able to overdrive the amp input.

Using a higher output from the NFB-11, will put its internal amp out of the "Class A" range. Audio-gd does not specify what is the level the amp will start operate in A/B class, just says in the manual "The NFB-11 built in high bias current amps , for most headphones at normal listen volume it is working at class A state". It is also possible that the NFB-11 have a higher distortion with the higher output, but, unlike valves, transistor distortion will never be pleasing at any level.

It is OK to experiment all possible combinations. Let your ear be the judge.

100 kohms input means the WA3 is an easy load for the source. It is quite OK for the NFB-11.

Cheers,

Elder

Hi Elder
I asked Mr Kingwa for more information because I had always thought that the analog output stage of the NFB-11, irrespective whether the headphone or the preamp section is used, always remained in class A.
I received following answer from Mr Kingwa:
"For the preamp or DAC output mode, the NFB11 always working in pure class A mode.
Fixed mode and high gain output level is 2.5V, but the unit had the 10V output ability so the distortion still very low."
Where did you find the info that at certain levels it would leave its class A state?

 

[Elder]

Hi Elder
I asked Mr Kingwa for more information because I had always thought that the analog output stage of the NFB-11, irrespective whether the headphone or the preamp section is used, always remained in class A.
I received following answer from Mr Kingwa:
"For the preamp or DAC output mode, the NFB11 always working in pure class A mode.
Fixed mode and high gain output level is 2.5V, but the unit had the 10V output ability so the distortion still very low."
Where did you find the info that at certain levels it would leave its class A state?

I concluded the amp would enter Class A/B above certain level after this note in the manual:

"The NFB-11 built in high biase current amps , for most headphones at normal listen volume it is working at class A state , so working long time will become a little warm, there is better keep it have good are follow state and don't cover other things on its top side ."

The NFB-11.28 manual page is here: http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/Headphoneamp/NFN1128/NFB1128EN_Use.htm

According to the Mr. Kingwa answer to your question, "for the preamp or DAC output mode, the NFB11 always working in pure class A mode".

It looks like the note in the manual refers to the headphones amp output only and I mistakenly assumed it was true for the line output as well.
I apologize for the misinformation.

 

[jist]

After owning this NFB-11.28 for a few months, I am now prepared to do some testing with the different digital filters.

Do any of you know if you can set/remove the filter jumpers on the fly? (without turning off the power, and perhaps even while playing music?)

The manual says you should power-off when switching the 'warmer sound' jumpers, but it doesn't mention that about the filter jumpers?

 

[jist]

Hm, it seems I wasted some time testing, by inventing my own non-existing filters.
(I had mixed up the jumper order)

For my own, and possibly other's reference, I created this cheat-sheet.
(NFB 11.28)