Audio-gd NFB-10
Dec 30, 2011 at 9:02 PM Post #2,161 of 2,860


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Started doing some comparisons usb vs spdif (coaxial). I can only get the signal up to 24/48 for both spdif and USB. 96 is not available for some reason? Running Windows 7. Also none of them lock at 44.1. 48 khz is what is available.
 
 



I am having this identical problem.  I have tried USB, spdif, and optical but I am unable to get past 24/48 using any connection either in windows or WASAPI in foobar.  Anyone have any suggestions? Did you find a resolution oqvist?  
 
I can see 96/192 available in windows sound options for optical and spdif, but when i test them I get no sound ... same when I play any FLACs @ 96 or 192 with WASAPI.  Ditto for USB @ 96.
 
Edit: Figured it out, the filter I was using didn't support 96/192.
 
Dec 31, 2011 at 6:09 AM Post #2,162 of 2,860


Quote:


I have done a few passes between the inbuilt NFB-10 SE USB and the DI and honestly it's too close to call.  my JK mk3 is easier to pick but costs a lot more, and is also a little less dark compared to the Tenor USB interfaces.  As the unit is shipped I would generally prefer the USB input to the mk3 Hiface also, as the combination with mk3 sounds too bright, although [mk3 is] more organised and with better layering, imaging etc.
 
I will try lowering the voltage on the Wolfson SE and changing the clock on the Sabre ES to see if I can improve either.  As is I prefer the sound of the SE as the ES sounds a little dithered and the imaging or outline of instruments a little "pulled".  As both of them are I would much rather listen to the SE as it is far more musical and engaging with more convincing instrument imaging, tone and texture.
 
Can anyone recommend any SMD resistors to perform voltage mod on the SE?  I will have to see if I can figure which ones are currently in there and I'm guessing find some higher resistance to lower output voltage?
 
EDIT:  I should probably note that the brightness of the JK mk3 was entirely due to the coax cable connection.  When I changed to a 20 dB coax attenuator the tonality came back into line with the USB, no more grain or harshness.  IMO though the USB is neutral but slightly dark/smooth and takes a lot to be beaten.
 
Dec 31, 2011 at 6:22 PM Post #2,163 of 2,860


Quote:
I have done a few passes between the inbuilt NFB-10 SE USB and the DI and honestly it's too close to call.  my JK mk3 is easier to pick but costs a lot more, and is also a little less dark compared to the Tenor USB interfaces.  As the unit is shipped I would generally prefer the USB input to the mk3 Hiface also, as the combination with mk3 sounds too bright, although [mk3 is] more organised and with better layering, imaging etc.
 
I will try lowering the voltage on the Wolfson SE and changing the clock on the Sabre ES to see if I can improve either.  As is I prefer the sound of the SE as the ES sounds a little dithered and the imaging or outline of instruments a little "pulled".  As both of them are I would much rather listen to the SE as it is far more musical and engaging with more convincing instrument imaging, tone and texture.
 
Can anyone recommend any SMD resistors to perform voltage mod on the SE?  I will have to see if I can figure which ones are currently in there and I'm guessing find some higher resistance to lower output voltage?



Drez, many thanks.  I was hoping that the USB was decently well implemented on the NFB-10SE ... I will hold off on an interface device until I can A/B in person.
 
Jan 1, 2012 at 8:13 AM Post #2,164 of 2,860
Indeed the USB is very good and will probably need a very good SPDIF converter with equally good cable to be beaten.  The NFB-10 SE though is high enough quality to show these differences, just the stock USB is both high quality and of good synergy.
 
Jan 2, 2012 at 9:14 AM Post #2,167 of 2,860


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Great product, great price.  I'm a big fan.


 
Me too. The more I listen to the 10SE, the more I love how it sounds. After having it for nearly a month, its sound has finally stabilized due to burn in (I don't leave the unit on 24/7). It's a very neutral and revealing system. As I upgrade the links in my system, I can hear the differences immediately. I'll highly recommend the 10SE for a budget of up to $1k. For incredibly detailed, neutral and analog sound, it is hard to beat.
 
Jan 2, 2012 at 12:16 PM Post #2,168 of 2,860
Has anyone had issues with the response times with the buttons? It's a minor annoyance, but sometimes the controls become nonresponsive and it takes several presses before my inputs register. I can hear the relays click slowly and it takes about 3-5 seconds for the volume to go up or down one level even if I hold down the buttons. If I leave the unit alone and come back in 5-10 minutes, the issue goes away.
 
Other than that, I have no complaints. Great sound and features at an unheard of price point.
 
 
 
Jan 2, 2012 at 12:20 PM Post #2,169 of 2,860
I've only had mine a month and am at less than 200 hours but I don't have the lag time you mention. Sometimes I might have to push a button again but I think it was more my "fault" than the hardware in those instances.
 
Jan 3, 2012 at 11:38 AM Post #2,170 of 2,860


Quote:
 
Me too. The more I listen to the 10SE, the more I love how it sounds. After having it for nearly a month, its sound has finally stabilized due to burn in (I don't leave the unit on 24/7). It's a very neutral and revealing system. As I upgrade the links in my system, I can hear the differences immediately. I'll highly recommend the 10SE for a budget of up to $1k. For incredibly detailed, neutral and analog sound, it is hard to beat.



x2 Especially coupled her with LCD2r2... >.<
 
Jan 3, 2012 at 4:10 PM Post #2,171 of 2,860
Ok...back from my trip.  The 10se has over 250 hours. Gonna sit and listen tonight and give a thorough final evaluation. 
 
I'm sure it is pins and needles that you are sitting on. 
 
Jan 3, 2012 at 4:34 PM Post #2,172 of 2,860
Happy New Year, everyone! 
 
I've been listening to my Magnum V4 through the -10SE for the past few weeks and am loving it. Anyone looking for a sub-1K headphone rig, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this combo. 
 
To comment on the HD800 pairing that I wasn't thrilled about earlier, I don't think it was the -10SE's fault but rather me wrapping my head around this finicky headphone and the mastering on the music that I listen to. 
 
I don't have many amps to compare to, but I tried pairing the HD800 with an Objective2, my friend's Sansui 9090DB, and an Allied 498 receiver (re-branded Pioneer SX-9xxx -- which is definitely on the warm side, but not quite as warm as a vintage Sansui or Marantz). With modern pop recordings, that headphone has excessive treble energy with everything I've run it through. In fact, the -10SE was the smoothest of all the pairings except for the Sansui. It's apparent to me now that I'm going to need to run this headphone through tubes to take the edge off, given the recordings that I listen to. 
 
On well-mastered recordings, like albums from The National, there is not a hint of edginess or sibilance through the HD800. 
 
Anyway, there's a big meet in the Bay Area next month, so I'm looking forward to lugging this unit to compare to others. 
 
Jan 3, 2012 at 9:58 PM Post #2,174 of 2,860


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I have quite a few amps but i'm really loving the -10 with my magnum 3.5s



 
You like it better than your Apex and MApletree? 
 
Jan 4, 2012 at 8:42 AM Post #2,175 of 2,860
I have just observed something with the Filter settings - while 7 provides the best PRAT IME it lends a hard edge to vocals in my current setup.  This could possibly be down to the digital interconnect I am using which appears to be rubbish.
 
Still advice stands that if 1, 4, and 7 sound too bright try any other filter 
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  IME the SPDIF input is very sensitive to jitter, so unless you have your transport sorted the USB is a better bet.
 

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