it now becomes very unclear exactly how one sets the Master 11 for '0' oversampling.
Anyone know for certain?
There are no instructions that I can find either in the current 'use manual' or on the WAYBACK machine where the setting of the 'bypass' jumper is even addressed?
it now becomes very unclear exactly how one sets the Master 11 for '0' oversampling.
Anyone know for certain?
There are no instructions that I can find either in the current 'use manual' or on the WAYBACK machine where the setting of the 'bypass' jumper is even addressed?
Did I read somewhere that the bypass jumper was useless anyhow because those terminals were shorted? Sounds like maybe they are going back on NOS support? Sure would be nice to hear from Kingwa.
On another note, has anyone evaluated the neutral <--> warm settings? Are those working and what are your impressions?
Did I read somewhere that the bypass jumper was useless anyhow because those terminals were shorted? Sounds like maybe they are going back on NOS support? Sure would be nice to hear from Kingwa.
On another note, has anyone evaluated the neutral <--> warm settings? Are those working and what are your impressions?
So, I've settled on the warmest setting. I'm very sensitive to highs and the oversampling was making it a bit sharper up there than I like. I'm not fatiguing on the warmest setting. If you compare it to the old chart jumper chart, it should be 1X oversampling and a slow (50dB) stopband filter. I was thinking there was more bass slam, but I realized it's just because the volume is higher and I'm not wincing. I'm VERY happy.
Nice.. I like the ability to tailor the sound signature. Just wish the jumpers are external so we don't have to pop open the top every time we have the urge to tweak things.
So, I've settled on the warmest setting. I'm very sensitive to highs and the oversampling was making it a bit sharper up there than I like. I'm not fatiguing on the warmest setting. If you compare it to the old chart jumper chart, it should be 1X oversampling and a slow (50dB) stopband filter. I was thinking there was more bass slam, but I realized it's just because the volume is higher and I'm not wincing. I'm VERY happy.
So if these assumptions are correct and the way M11 is intended, then my unit may not be faulty after all:
- there is no way to bypass the DSP totally
- M11 only supports x1,x4 and x8 OS, and x2 OS is now not supported.
But the summary page of M11 on the official website has this description where x2 OS is supported ==> " It supports up to 32bit / 192KHz through USB and I2S input, 24bit / 192KHz through SPDIF inputs (NOS, 2X , 4X and 8X oversampling support)."
I feel like ive flown into the middle of a multi car pile up while it is happening. So most of us here have purchased an Exotic Hand Made headphone amplifier from a tiny shop very far away from people who do not speak our language. Im really bemused. When you buy a genuine hand made object you should expect to see the hand of the maker. If they have modded the pins with solder good! Its functional and hand done by a human. Perhaps the concern should be 'is the solder fast enough?' So one person sticks their multimeter in there and think they have come to a Conclution. I dont buy it. I'm reading a bunch of posts of guys making themselves unhappy with their perfectly functional toy. And yeah, do it on Sunday when Kingwa isnt around. Nice! Then what? Ask Kingwa to 'Explain Himself'? for using solder and glue on a pin. Complain to Apple for gluing together ipads. And forget the Microsoft Surface insides and other Mainstream electronic products. I think much of this afternoons posts could negatively affect Kingwa's business where much of the concern is needless.
So if these assumptions are correct and the way M11 is intended, then my unit may not be faulty after all:
- there is no way to bypass the DSP totally
- M11 only supports x1,x4 and x8 OS, and x2 OS is now not supported.
But the summary page of M11 on the official website has this description where x2 OS is supported ==> "[COLOR=008000] It supports up to 32bit / 192KHz through USB and I2S input, 24bit / 192KHz through SPDIF inputs (NOS, 2X , 4X and 8X oversampling support)."[/COLOR]
I feel like ive flown into the middle of a multi car pile up while it is happening. So most of us here have purchased an Exotic Hand Made headphone amplifier from a tiny shop very far away from people who do not speak our language. Im really bemused. When you buy a genuine hand made object you should expect to see the hand of the maker. If they have modded the pins with solder good! Its functional and hand done by a human. Perhaps the concern should be 'is the solder fast enough?' So one person sticks their multimeter in there and think they have come to a Conclution. I dont buy it. I'm reading a bunch of posts of guys making themselves unhappy with their perfectly functional toy. And yeah, do it on Sunday when Kingwa isnt around. Nice! Then what? Ask Kingwa to 'Explain Himself'? for using solder and glue on a pin. Complain to Apple for gluing together ipads. And forget the Microsoft Surface insides and other Mainstream electronic products. I think much of this afternoons posts could negatively affect Kingwa's business where much of the concern is needless.
For the record, I don't know enough about circuit boards to know what's a shortcut or isn't. I just wanted to know how to use the jumpers without getting channel imbalance. I feel responsible for starting this, but I thought I was alone with the channel imbalance issue until cans mentioned it today. It just so happens that Kingwa and/or team updated the site today, so all is well. I think the fact that he allows his consumers to pop off the cover without voiding the warranty is very telling to his confidence in the build of his product. I agree, these are not robots placing and soldering - I like that it's a boutique, hand built product.
Glad you found the warmest setting to work well for you. Your Beyers are very treble heavy. If they can be tamed by the M11, that is friggin' great! Both your Audeze cans don't traditionally have a ton of treble.
Glad you found the warmest setting to work well for you. Your Beyers are very treble heavy. If they can be tamed by the M11, that is friggin' great! Both your Audeze cans don't traditionally have a ton of treble.
It seems that the warmest setting, although with a tamed treble seems to come a smaller soundstage.. tradeoffs. The M11 definitely seems to have the largest soundstage with stock settings.
Regarding phones, the LCD-2s are on the dark side, but the LCD-X has a quite a presence over 10Khz. My Beyer 770s are surprisingly not bright at all. Go figure. The HD800s and DT990s I used to have were the two headphones that I found particularly troublesome for my sensitivity to treble.
I feel like ive flown into the middle of a multi car pile up while it is happening. So most of us here have purchased an Exotic Hand Made headphone amplifier from a tiny shop very far away from people who do not speak our language. Im really bemused. When you buy a genuine hand made object you should expect to see the hand of the maker. If they have modded the pins with solder good! Its functional and hand done by a human. Perhaps the concern should be 'is the solder fast enough?' So one person sticks their multimeter in there and think they have come to a Conclution. I dont buy it. I'm reading a bunch of posts of guys making themselves unhappy with their perfectly functional toy. And yeah, do it on Sunday when Kingwa isnt around. Nice! Then what? Ask Kingwa to 'Explain Himself'? for using solder and glue on a pin. Complain to Apple for gluing together ipads. And forget the Microsoft Surface insides and other Mainstream electronic products. I think much of this afternoons posts could negatively affect Kingwa's business where much of the concern is needless.
That's one take, but not necessarily the correct one and pretty dramatic. Questions need to be asked and answered and preferably out in the open for full transparency to educate all of us. He doesn't need to respond on Sunday but he should respond, and hopefully with better answers than "it's your USB cable". The questions are very legit and should have simp!e answers.
I've emailed Kingwa already and I will post the update once i get his reply. Meanwhile I feel that I am responsible for starting all this.
I should have never assumed that the pin settings would be the same as the one for the older DSP-1 page (which i got a link from the Master 7 thread i think). I got concerned once i found out my bypass pins as well as IPS1 and IPS0 pins did not function as I assumed they would. But within the boundaries/settings outlined on the official M11 user manual page, my unit is fully functional and am perfectly happy with the sound.
I have no complaints about the workmanship at all. Just wanted to confirm whether the solder bridges are intended or not. I really appreciate everyone's help here and confirming that those solder bridges are normal and where they should be.
I do apologize to Kingwa and members here for bringing up a concern which may not even be a real concern or a problem in the end.
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