It seems that the warmest setting, although with a tamed treble seems to come a smaller soundstage.. tradeoffs. The M11 definitely seems to have the largest soundstage with stock settings.
Regarding phones, the LCD-2s are on the dark side, but the LCD-X has a quite a presence over 10Khz. My Beyer 770s are surprisingly not bright at all. Go figure. The HD800s and DT990s I used to have were the two headphones that I found particularly troublesome for my sensitivity to treble.
I've been trying the warmest setting as well, and I definitely do feel that vocals are sounding more intimate and closer than the stock settings. This may be similar to the smaller soundstage you hear with your music i guess.
I dont think you should apologize at all. If the issues raised turn out to be non-issues, that doesnt mean you should not have raised them in the first place.
well, i feel that I should have contacted Kingwa first regarding my concerns and then share with you guys and not the other way around creating alarms everywhere.
Yes it could. Big Time. But im not as sure on m11. I have 30 plus years building mainframe computers, networks, pc's and all the stuff that goes along with it. Heat can make computers just act and sound goofy. I mean nonsense on screens. Slowing down. I could write a book on heat and computers. Why once we took trays of ice and blah blah blah. The m11 is a specialized computer. I believe the only way to totally get the measure of a machine (or an idea) is to test it until it breaks. I was reading this summer about how r2r dacs need to warm up. So I tested my m11 by putting it in my 90 degree garage and played Lady Gaga into my hd800's for 72 hours straight. The top of the m11 got quite warm but not as hot as my Lyr2 amp. No harm done to the m11 or hd800's. I find if I let m11 warm up for an hour it sounds better than cold. And six hours of warm up works wonders. My m11 stays on now from Friday evening until Monday morning. So yes heat could very well cause your issues but then I really got mine really hot without consequences. And no I did not listen to Gaga for 72 hours straight. I wonder if powering the m11 down and back up would help. Sometimes all the crazy drivers used by my Android tablets can freeze things up or start producing some funny noises. Try cycling power when this starts up again.
Yes it could. Big Time. But im not as sure on m11. I have 30 plus years building mainframe computers, networks, pc's and all the stuff that goes along with it. Heat can make computers just act and sound goofy. I mean nonsense on screens. Slowing down. I could write a book on heat and computers. Why once we took trays of ice and blah blah blah. The m11 is a specialized computer. I believe the only way to totally get the measure of a machine (or an idea) is to test it until it breaks. I was reading this summer about how r2r dacs need to warm up. So I tested my m11 by putting it in my 90 degree garage and played Lady Gaga into my hd800's for 72 hours straight. The top of the m11 got quite warm but not as hot as my Lyr2 amp. No harm done to the m11 or hd800's. I find if I let m11 warm up for an hour it sounds better than cold. And six hours of warm up works wonders. My m11 stays on now from Friday evening until Monday morning. So yes heat could very well cause your issues but then I really got mine really hot without consequences. And no I did not listen to Gaga for 72 hours straight. I wonder if powering the m11 down and back up would help. Sometimes all the crazy drivers used by my Android tablets can freeze things up or start producing some funny noises. Try cycling power when this starts up again.
I have tried cycling (power down and power up). That fixes the stutter temporarily. It usually comes back after about 20 minutes.
That's the puzzling part for me. Why does changing the input source or power cycling the device temporarily fix the issue? If it was heat, then won't the stutter/dropout immediately surface because they system is already hot??
I've emailed Kingwa already and I will post the update once i get his reply. Meanwhile I feel that I am responsible for starting all this.
I should have never assumed that the pin settings would be the same as the one for the older DSP-1 page (which i got a link from the Master 7 thread i think). I got concerned once i found out my bypass pins as well as IPS1 and IPS0 pins did not function as I assumed they would. But within the boundaries/settings outlined on the official M11 user manual page, my unit is fully functional and am perfectly happy with the sound.
I have no complaints about the workmanship at all. Just wanted to confirm whether the solder bridges are intended or not. I really appreciate everyone's help here and confirming that those solder bridges are normal and where they should be.
I do apologize to Kingwa and members here for bringing up a concern which may not even be a real concern or a problem in the end.
You do not have one single thing to apologise for. 'I Am Experienced' with the little electronic darlings on the whole. The best thing is you got good answers for all of us and you feel better and get to enjoy the m11 without concern.
I think what I am going to do when I get home, is remove the top cover and see if the stutter/drop out is stopped. Then I will know for certain that it is due to the heat the device generates.
A lot users don't know the setting issue on the sound, they often ask what sound change with the setting change.
SO we had to change the describe and the setting jumpers combo
Setting to the warmest sound is the NOS.
Kingwa
I think what I am going to do when I get home, is remove the top cover and see if the stutter/drop out is stopped. Then I will know for certain that it is due to the heat the device generates.
I think what I am going to do when I get home, is remove the top cover and see if the stutter/drop out is stopped. Then I will know for certain that it is due to the heat the device generates.
When I was using Jriver's WDM driver, I would get clicks and pops but it seemed to be CPU load related. I ended up trying Fidelizer and it took care of it (http://www.fidelizer-audio.com/). I've been on Tidal lately though, so I went to the WASAPI driver and haven't had any issues on that even without using Fidelizer. What is your source for the optical input?
It may be heat - giving it some more space above it may rectify the issue. Mine never gets what I would call hot... just warm.
I've emailed Kingwa already and I will post the update once i get his reply. Meanwhile I feel that I am responsible for starting all this.
I should have never assumed that the pin settings would be the same as the one for the older DSP-1 page (which i got a link from the Master 7 thread i think). I got concerned once i found out my bypass pins as well as IPS1 and IPS0 pins did not function as I assumed they would. But within the boundaries/settings outlined on the official M11 user manual page, my unit is fully functional and am perfectly happy with the sound.
I have no complaints about the workmanship at all. Just wanted to confirm whether the solder bridges are intended or not. I really appreciate everyone's help here and confirming that those solder bridges are normal and where they should be.
I do apologize to Kingwa and members here for bringing up a concern which may not even be a real concern or a problem in the end.
No apologies necessary. The instructions for jumper settings HAS BEEN CHANGED on the Audio-gd web site. While I can find no record from The Wayback Machine of the earlier instructions for the Master 11 many of us remember them as being the same as the Master 7 which HAS been changed as well and The Wayback Machine logs clearly show this.
"A lot users don't know the setting issue on the sound, they often ask what sound change with the setting change.
SO we had to change the describe and the setting jumpers combo
Setting to the warmest sound is the NOS."
which does not answer all the questions i asked him. But i now do know that i have been enjoying the NOS sound from my HD800 for the last several hours and i find the sound less fatiguing than the stock settings for sure.
which does not answer all the questions i asked him. But i now do know that i have been enjoying the NOS sound from my HD800 for the last several hours and i find the sound less fatiguing than the stock settings for sure.
The temperature is around 18-30 degrees celsius or 65-80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Last night my room was about 22 degrees C or 72 degrees F.
Today it is a lot cooler - 18C max. It's probably 13 degrees right now.
Right now, I have turned the M11 on, with the top cover still on, playing music. We'll see if it begins stuttering and when. I've written down the time of when it was turned on.
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