Audio GD Master-11(Combination from Master 7 and Master 9)
Nov 2, 2015 at 3:23 AM Post #857 of 2,556
  Here's an idea of the space between my top bench and the M11. 
 
The gap between the M11 and the top bench is approximately 6cm or 2.36inches.'
 

 
That looks like plenty of clearance for good air flow.  Thermals should not be a problem.  And ambient 25C is considered normal room temperature for electronics, at least where I come from.
 
Nov 2, 2015 at 3:23 AM Post #858 of 2,556
I just want to make it clear that I suspect it is due to heat. It could be caused by something completely unrelated.
 
Nov 2, 2015 at 3:33 AM Post #859 of 2,556
   
Yeah, it most definitely doesn't answer the recent questions in this thread.
 
BTW, in NOS mode, does the soundstage become more compact?

I cannot discern with confidence whether the actual soundstage feels more compact or not but like i mentioned before, the vocal sounds slightly more intimate and closer. Other things I noticed are that there is relatively less air between instruments and sound is more coherent and fuller than before, and overall sound seems more organic now. I am not very good at describing sound and i don't know if i am describing properly but all i can say is that the occasional etch i hear with my HD800 (no mod) is gone and i can listen for longer sessions and things are sounding quite pleasant. 
 
Nov 2, 2015 at 3:41 AM Post #860 of 2,556
Since I am very satisfied with M11 NOS mode + HD800, I wonder if I should reconsider upgrading from stock to Norne Draug 2 cable. People say Draug 2 adds bass and body + removes etch, and i don't know if upgrading cables will make my HD800 sound overly bassy and rounds treble too much... 
 
Nov 2, 2015 at 7:24 AM Post #861 of 2,556
I wonder if there would be any merit in installing one of these heatsinks onto the DSP?
 
http://www.moddiy.com/products/3M%252d8810-Black-Chipset-Heatsink-%2828mm-x-28mm-x-9mm%29.html
 
Nov 2, 2015 at 7:53 AM Post #862 of 2,556
  Since I am very satisfied with M11 NOS mode + HD800, I wonder if I should reconsider upgrading from stock to Norne Draug 2 cable. People say Draug 2 adds bass and body + removes etch, and i don't know if upgrading cables will make my HD800 sound overly bassy and rounds treble too much...​
 
 

 
My experience with cables is that the difference they make is not huge.  I would go for it for the aesthetics alone. 
 
Nov 2, 2015 at 7:58 AM Post #863 of 2,556
   
Yeah, it most definitely doesn't answer the recent questions in this thread.
 
BTW, in NOS mode, does the soundstage become more compact?


 While listening on the LCD-Xs, the soundstage did seem to become more compact.  Possibly a good thing for HD800 owners, but I enjoy a sizeable soundstage.​
 
Nov 2, 2015 at 3:04 PM Post #864 of 2,556
I wonder if there would be any merit in installing one of these heatsinks onto the DSP?

http://www.moddiy.com/products/3M%252d8810-Black-Chipset-Heatsink-%2828mm-x-28mm-x-9mm%29.html
Just my instincts talking here but I wouldn't do it to mine. My machine becomes only warm to the touch and it's been up three days now. The cover seems heat sink enough. The was another poster who had pasted some topping on the chips that was supposed to make things 'better'. I believe heat issues soon arrived. Once you put it on, at some time you are going to take it off 'just to see' and then it's sticky residue on Chip blah blah and blah. I doubt the solution costs $1.99. Actually even a tiny fan blowing on a hot cover cools it down really well. I've tested :)
 
Nov 2, 2015 at 3:42 PM Post #866 of 2,556
Just my instincts talking here but I wouldn't do it to mine. My machine becomes only warm to the touch and it's been up three days now. The cover seems heat sink enough. The was another poster who had pasted some topping on the chips that was supposed to make things 'better'. I believe heat issues soon arrived. Once you put it on, at some time you are going to take it off 'just to see' and then it's sticky residue on Chip blah blah and blah. I doubt the solution costs $1.99. Actually even a tiny fan blowing on a hot cover cools it down really well. I've tested
smily_headphones1.gif

 
 
That was me. and it was with 3M EMI absorbtion material. BUT, the problem was NOT heat. After talking with kingwa, he states the DSP does not get hot, does not matter if it has EMI film on it. The "stuttering" i experienced was because I had the M11 on for many days, weeks or even a month straight without resetting the M11 as he recommended. He states 24x5, not 24x7... but that sounded confusing I thought. He just said it's like windows, needs to reboot once in a while. So a quick power off and reset is needed to reset the DSP once in a while. Otherwise stutters can happen.  I have NOT removed any EMI film and never experienced a stutter since knowing this info from Kingwa. 
 
I wouldn't bother with a heatsink myself, but the EMI is not a bad idea and definitely didn't make things worse. I have some photos showing all the areas I used it on. I can say my setup sounds nothing short of incredible imho. :D
 
and that EMI film is not cheap, one 8.5x11 sheet is around 60-80bucks from what I rememember.  I don't remember if I posted the photos in the Dac19, master11 or nfb28 thread. I've added EMI film to my wife's NFB28 as well.  no issues with heat, only need a dsp reset.  My M11 was super warm that day, but still not enough to be a problem.
 
and a small low DB fan on top could make a difference to cool it down if you wanted...
 
sticky residue is easy to clean off BTW. Isopropyl Alcohol.
 
Nov 2, 2015 at 3:51 PM Post #867 of 2,556
If that's the case (reboot needed) then they really ought to provide a reset momentary switch on the panel somewhere, rather than requiring the unit go through an entire thermal cycle as well.
 
BTW, is there actually an RTOS running inside this thing?  Firmware?  Can this be user-upgraded?  
 
Nov 2, 2015 at 4:03 PM Post #868 of 2,556
   
 
That was me. and it was with 3M EMI absorbtion material. BUT, the problem was NOT heat. After talking with kingwa, he states the DSP does not get hot, does not matter if it has EMI film on it. The "stuttering" i experienced was because I had the M11 on for many days, weeks or even a month straight without resetting the M11 as he recommended. He states 24x5, not 24x7... but that sounded confusing I thought. He just said it's like windows, needs to reboot once in a while. So a quick power off and reset is needed to reset the DSP once in a while. Otherwise stutters can happen.  I have NOT removed any EMI film and never experienced a stutter since knowing this info from Kingwa. 
 
I wouldn't bother with a heatsink myself, but the EMI is not a bad idea and definitely didn't make things worse. I have some photos showing all the areas I used it on. I can say my setup sounds nothing short of incredible imho. :D
 
and that EMI film is not cheap, one 8.5x11 sheet is around 60-80bucks from what I rememember.  I don't remember if I posted the photos in the Dac19, master11 or nfb28 thread. I've added EMI film to my wife's NFB28 as well.  no issues with heat, only need a dsp reset.  My M11 was super warm that day, but still not enough to be a problem.
 
and a small low DB fan on top could make a difference to cool it down if you wanted...
 
sticky residue is easy to clean off BTW. Isopropyl Alcohol.

When my M11 was really warm 2 nights ago and the stutter/clicking began, I did power down the M11 for approximately 5 minutes. Note, that my m11 has never been on for longer than 8 hours.
 
The power cycle did work, but the stutter/clicking happened again after about 20-30 minutes. 
 
I'm yet to message Kingwa. 
 
I want to try the M11 without the top cover and see if the stutter happens again. 
 
____
 
I was thinking too, that 3 small 40mm low db fans on the top cover, acting as exhaust, would move the air through the case and prevent this occurring. The only problem is, where do you get a 12v source to power the fans. 
 
Personally, I think the top cover needs more of the ventilation slots, particularly immediately above the transistor heatsinks towards the front of the case. 
 
Nov 2, 2015 at 4:11 PM Post #869 of 2,556
Have you try different USB port? Now a day, a motherboard contains many USB ports driving by different USB chips.  For my computer, there would be this one port that would not work at all, so I just move my mouse and keyboards to that and use the other set for DAC output.
 
Nov 2, 2015 at 4:18 PM Post #870 of 2,556
  Have you try different USB port? Now a day, a motherboard contains many USB ports driving by different USB chips.  For my computer, there would be this one port that would not work at all, so I just move my mouse and keyboards to that and use the other set for DAC output.

I've only ever used my Macbook Pro and Android phone with the M11. Both were on battery when in use with the m11. 
 
When the stutter began, I was using my MacBook. So I change the usb cable from the port on the left-hand side to the right-hand side. This temporarily stopped it for about 2 minutes, before the stutter occurred again. Then removed the USB from my Macbook and plugged it into my android. Again, this temporarily stopped it for about 10-15 minutes but the problem surfaced again.

Note: the M11 was quite warm at this time and had been on after about 5-6 hours in a 25 degree C room. 
 
 
After having no luck with the USB, I moved onto optical. This worked flawlessly for about an hour, but the stutter came back, albeit with less frequency. 
 

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