Audio-gd Digital Interface
Aug 25, 2011 at 7:27 PM Post #2,536 of 4,156


Quote:
LiPO's can be very dangerous (fire) when charging and/or when they get wet. LiFE's are generally thought to be much safer but take note that the voltage per cell is a little different than LiPO.


     And really fun things happen when you short them out! (I did this once indoors and it blew up - but luckily it was a very small one, so no fire or damage - just don't breathe in the fumes..)
 
    Yeah, I think LiFe are around 3.3 volts per cell where as LiPO are around 3.7 volts per cell.
Quote:
LiPO's are also easily damaged if they are allowed to drain down too far before recharging.

 
Yup. So are Lead-Acid (which is why you need to buy a new car battery if you leave your lights on overnight more than a couple of times). The reason why this doesn't happen with the LiPOs in cell phones, computers, etc, is because they have a built in control board that only lets them discharge down to a certain voltage (like around 3.2V from 3.7V).
 
So no one's tried the DI with batteries?
 
 
Aug 29, 2011 at 1:50 PM Post #2,538 of 4,156
I just received a DI myself eventually!
 
I was very eager to try it but unfortunately it must have been hit during transfer and it's got a problem. It only outputs 1 channel of audio! I only get sound from my left speaker.
 
I ve sent an email to Kingwa but wanted to ask you guys here as well if you ve got any ideas.
 
Here's the mail I wrote :
 
....
 
I'm using the DI with an NFB-12 and this occurs both with headphones and
with speakers (HP out and Variable Out). Tried with other cables,
other sources, nothing. It's the DI.

I opened it up to see if there were any cables that were cut or pulled
off, but couldn't see anything like that.
What i noticed was that the usb input (the part that's IN the box) was
a little flimsy and it's back cap was a little off. I pushed it gently
back in and tried to see if that would solve the problem but it
didn't. When I plug the usb cable, it's pushed back. I also plugged
the usb cable and holded it with my finger so that it won't be pushed
and it stayed closed, but still no sound from the right speaker.

Any ideas?
I have a friend with soldering and DIY skills generally which I'll be
meeting next week. Should i give him any specific instructions to fix
it if I can't?


I also have another problem with my NFB-12 and a defected screw. I
tried to open it from above, to set  the jumper to allow Fixed output,
but one of the screws won't unscrew no matter how hard i try. Instead
of unscrewing, the screwdriver is digging in the screw and ruining its
shape! Would you know any way to unscrew that thing?
It's silly but its really hard to find a solution for it!
Would the variable output with volume knob full open be the same as fixed??
 
 
 
Sorry for the huge post but I'd be really thankful if anyone could help!
 
Aug 29, 2011 at 5:54 PM Post #2,539 of 4,156
That sucks hard when you mess up a screw.  I can only suggest pressing the screwdriver down really hard, or if the screw is slightly out, then use pliers to twist the screw until it comes out completely.
 
Aug 29, 2011 at 7:37 PM Post #2,540 of 4,156


Quote:
 It only outputs 1 channel of audio! I only get sound from my left speaker.


Please check the output setting on your computer.
 
When I first plugged in mine, it also outputs on one side only because the left-right balance setting was panned totally to the left.
 
 
Aug 29, 2011 at 7:44 PM Post #2,541 of 4,156


Quote:
I just received a DI myself eventually!
 
I was very eager to try it but unfortunately it must have been hit during transfer and it's got a problem. It only outputs 1 channel of audio! I only get sound from my left speaker.
 
I ve sent an email to Kingwa but wanted to ask you guys here as well if you ve got any ideas.
 
Here's the mail I wrote :
 
....
 
I'm using the DI with an NFB-12 and this occurs both with headphones and
with speakers (HP out and Variable Out). Tried with other cables,
other sources, nothing. It's the DI.

I opened it up to see if there were any cables that were cut or pulled
off, but couldn't see anything like that.
What i noticed was that the usb input (the part that's IN the box) was
a little flimsy and it's back cap was a little off. I pushed it gently
back in and tried to see if that would solve the problem but it
didn't. When I plug the usb cable, it's pushed back. I also plugged
the usb cable and holded it with my finger so that it won't be pushed
and it stayed closed, but still no sound from the right speaker.

Any ideas?
I have a friend with soldering and DIY skills generally which I'll be
meeting next week. Should i give him any specific instructions to fix
it if I can't?


I also have another problem with my NFB-12 and a defected screw. I
tried to open it from above, to set  the jumper to allow Fixed output,
but one of the screws won't unscrew no matter how hard i try. Instead
of unscrewing, the screwdriver is digging in the screw and ruining its
shape! Would you know any way to unscrew that thing?
It's silly but its really hard to find a solution for it!
Would the variable output with volume knob full open be the same as fixed??
 
 
 
Sorry for the huge post but I'd be really thankful if anyone could help!

You may need to drill it out which is much more simple that it sounds if you have a drill and bits of the proper size.
 
 
 
Aug 29, 2011 at 7:51 PM Post #2,542 of 4,156
first thing I would suggest you do on all gear out of China is replace the screws.  Although all of the components inside are great, the screws are absolutely HORRIBLE, you will notice some will hold better than others and others might  **** near strip the first time you use them.
 
Actually on my NFB-2 when I was putting in the DIR9001 Spdif Receiver I ended up stripping one of the screws and had to mac guyver it out.  Which resulted in a a very slight cosmetic blemish(a little scraped paint)
 
Only unit from China that I have toyed with that had decent screws was the mav D1, and thats because hex screws are sexy when it comes to not being able to easily strip.  In the event you somehow did you can easily use some pliers.
 
Aug 29, 2011 at 8:10 PM Post #2,543 of 4,156
 
Quote:
first thing I would suggest you do on all gear out of China is replace the screws.  Although all of the components inside are great, the screws are absolutely HORRIBLE, you will notice some will hold better than others and others might  **** near strip the first time you use them.
 
Actually on my NFB-2 when I was putting in the DIR9001 Spdif Receiver I ended up stripping one of the screws and had to mac guyver it out.  Which resulted in a a very slight cosmetic blemish(a little scraped paint)
 
Only unit from China that I have toyed with that had decent screws was the mav D1, and thats because hex screws are sexy when it comes to not being able to easily strip.  In the event you somehow did you can easily use some pliers.


Assuming that the casing doesn't have holes so the hex screws can nearly fit flush with the rest of the casing.  =X
 
Aug 29, 2011 at 9:39 PM Post #2,544 of 4,156

 
Quote:
first thing I would suggest you do on all gear out of China is replace the screws.  Although all of the components inside are great, the screws are absolutely HORRIBLE, you will notice some will hold better than others and others might  **** near strip the first time you use them.
 
Actually on my NFB-2 when I was putting in the DIR9001 Spdif Receiver I ended up stripping one of the screws and had to mac guyver it out.  Which resulted in a a very slight cosmetic blemish(a little scraped paint)
 
Only unit from China that I have toyed with that had decent screws was the mav D1, and thats because hex screws are sexy when it comes to not being able to easily strip.  In the event you somehow did you can easily use some pliers.



What was your Macguyver technique if you don't mind me asking? I stripped a screw trying to open the case and am at a loss on how to get it out.
 
Aug 29, 2011 at 9:46 PM Post #2,545 of 4,156


Quote:
first thing I would suggest you do on all gear out of China is replace the screws.  Although all of the components inside are great, the screws are absolutely HORRIBLE, you will notice some will hold better than others and others might  **** near strip the first time you use them.
 
Actually on my NFB-2 when I was putting in the DIR9001 Spdif Receiver I ended up stripping one of the screws and had to mac guyver it out.  Which resulted in a a very slight cosmetic blemish(a little scraped paint)
 
Only unit from China that I have toyed with that had decent screws was the mav D1, and thats because hex screws are sexy when it comes to not being able to easily strip.  In the event you somehow did you can easily use some pliers.


how hard is it to put in the dir9001 receiver?
 
 
Aug 29, 2011 at 9:52 PM Post #2,546 of 4,156
Opening and closing the case was more work, the spdif receiver is secured by a single screw inside of the NFB-2 and theres only a single way to put it in due to this. 
 
Removing it is as simple as removing the screw, popping it out.  Popping the new one in, screwing it down.
 
Quote:
how hard is it to put in the dir9001 receiver?
 



Mac Guyver, Pliers, a small hack saw.  Just don't ruin your case, I got a little bit of scraping on the paint but the casing is otherwise undamaged. Took patience as well and I forgot my exact rhythm to get it out.
 
I lack power tools though, using a drill would of been MUCH easier with the right bit.
 
Aug 29, 2011 at 10:51 PM Post #2,547 of 4,156
Sweet thanks for the instructions I might have to check which one I have inside my NFB-10 ES.
 
Aug 30, 2011 at 6:30 AM Post #2,548 of 4,156


Quote:
Mind elaborating? I find that hard to believe, since the GT2 was a marked improvement over the Wireworld Ultraviolet. If sganzerla wants to try a lesser quality USB cable since he thinks that's the problem, I'd recommend looking at the ones made by Pangea Audio -- OCC copper conductors for $30 is a steal.
 



If the Ultraviolet is on the warm side while the GT2 is on the bright side, then the Formula 2 is somewhere in the middle. I think Belkin Gold is unbeatable as far as budget USB cables are concerned.
 
Seriously though, swapping USB cable should be the last last last thing you buy. 
 
Aug 30, 2011 at 9:45 AM Post #2,549 of 4,156


Quote:
Sweet thanks for the instructions I might have to check which one I have inside my NFB-10 ES.


Your NFB-10ES's SPDIF receiver is built inside the ES-9018 DAC chip.
 
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top