Audeze LCD-2 Orthos
Feb 26, 2011 at 2:23 PM Post #9,871 of 18,459
Ok I asked this before but anyone has managed to try a dacmini with the LCD2? I am really liking the dacmini as a compact source and amp solution. The other would be the stagedac/concerto combo. Problem is I don't know how good is the stagedac. Skylab seems to use another source to feed his concerto. And it would cost more as well. Maybe the dacmini is too new in the market for there to be many people to have paired them with the LCD2?
 
Feb 27, 2011 at 1:15 PM Post #9,873 of 18,459


Quote:
i tried many things but i don't manage to have both side symetric in their rotating range. The left earcup is i think how it should be (~30°) but the right one is loose  (360°).
If i tightens the screw then the right earcup can't move and it doesn't seem a compromise can be achieved no matter how i turn the screw...

Are you tightening the correct screw?  One tightens the detent spring, the other tightens the rotation stop.
 
 
Feb 27, 2011 at 2:30 PM Post #9,874 of 18,459
well, there is one screw on the aluminium block (along with 4 others in the inside, which i also tried to settle but had no effect at all).
And then is the bottom screw, and i let this one tightened, as it should be right ?
 
you can see on this pic that it doesn't have a screw before the spring (like mine)
 

 
whereas this one has
 

 
is it the problem?
 
Feb 27, 2011 at 2:48 PM Post #9,875 of 18,459
 
Quote:
well, there is one screw on the aluminium block (along with 4 others in the inside, which i also tried to settle but had no effect at all).
And then is the bottom screw, and i let this one tightened, as it should be right ?


There are 8 screws per side that are associated with the block/mechanism.  You can ignore the 6 phillips style screws after verifying they are snug.  That leaves the two small adjustment screws (one slotted type and one allen-head type).  As kwkarth mentioned, one is for rotation stop and one is for the "detent" spring to control up/down movement on the shaft.  Audeze has a video on block replacement that might be informative for you.  In my experience it is very important to use some low-strength thread locking compound on the two adjustment screws, otherwise the adjustment will not hold long at all.  Loctite and Permatex are examples of brands.  You want low strength, not permanent type!  Back the two adjuster screws out all the way and confirm if there if thread locker residue on the screw.  The screw should have a little resistance to turning the whole way out.  If necessary, add some thread locker.  If the screw previously had thread locker, you probably don't need to add any.  It takes a little trial/error to get the right combination of adjuster screw settings.
 
BK
 
 
Feb 27, 2011 at 4:49 PM Post #9,877 of 18,459
thank you i understand now^^ . I thought the little thing inside was a spring and i didnt make the connection with the allen key :) Everything is working fine now
wink.gif

 
Feb 27, 2011 at 5:27 PM Post #9,878 of 18,459


Quote:
 In my experience it is very important to use some low-strength thread locking compound on the two adjustment screws, otherwise the adjustment will not hold long at all.  Loctite and Permatex are examples of brands.  You want low strength, not permanent type!  Back the two adjuster screws out all the way and confirm if there if thread locker residue on the screw.  The screw should have a little resistance to turning the whole way out.  If necessary, add some thread locker.  If the screw previously had thread locker, you probably don't need to add any.  It takes a little trial/error to get the right combination of adjuster screw settings.
 
BK
 

 
How strange. My adjustments have not moved at all, and I set them months ago. Although I only changed the setting for how easy the height adjustment slides.
(perhaps that's a good thing since there was no allen key in my package)
 
 
Feb 27, 2011 at 5:55 PM Post #9,879 of 18,459
Is it normal for the wood case to develop cracks over time? I am letting a friend borrow my LCD-2 so I took my wooden case and dusted it off. It had developed 6 cracks in different areas on top on the side and the bottom in random areas? The wood is ultra thin so it´s perhaps to be expected?
 
Feb 27, 2011 at 6:00 PM Post #9,880 of 18,459
The wood is not a ply type so yes, I would expect this. Is is desirable, no, and what should be used is not solid wood but a ply or very stabilized wood. I am in the tropics and the case is fine. When i come back to a dry climate and the moisture content of the wood decreases and the wood shrinks, I know it will crack, unfortunately. I would go with the Pelican case. 
 
Feb 27, 2011 at 7:56 PM Post #9,881 of 18,459


Quote:
thank you i understand now^^ . I thought the little thing inside was a spring and i didnt make the connection with the allen key :) Everything is working fine now
wink.gif

 
Excellent!  Good work!
 
Feb 28, 2011 at 1:16 AM Post #9,883 of 18,459
It seems that the LCD-2 is starting to exhibit the same cracking problem as the HE-5LE. It must be the nature of the beast.
 
Feb 28, 2011 at 1:26 AM Post #9,884 of 18,459


Quote:
It seems that the LCD-2 is starting to exhibit the same cracking problem as the HE-5LE. It must be the nature of the beast.

They are talking about the wooden case, from what it appears, not the headphone wood housing. 
 
I just got some Twag V2 for the LCD-2 and I am delighted (not a word I have used for audio that I remember anyway). The sound is more of everything and so open and flowing. The highs are so liquid and natural and extended. The bass is extremely well controlled, taking on a different character. Hard to describe but it vacillates in a way that a note is shown to be more than the single note but a reverberating sound changing rapidly. It reminds me of when I played bass guitar many years ago, that vibrating feel that grabs you when bass is done right ( I often read texture here but more than that). 
 
Feb 28, 2011 at 2:30 AM Post #9,885 of 18,459
 
Quote:
It seems that the LCD-2 is starting to exhibit the same cracking problem as the HE-5LE. It must be the nature of the beast.


I'm sure you meant the HE-5 (non-LE) 
smile.gif

 

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