ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod
Aug 10, 2014 at 11:12 PM Post #691 of 801
  Hi New here, I been browsing through this thread and have been convinced to do the removable cable mod and after much trial and error it was a success. The only thing I am still wanting to do is put some sleeving on the original cable that was cut. I have a new 3.5 jack and was just wondering what would work good as I have tried some paracord that i picked up locally but it was to small to fit the cable and am now wondering what I should try. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 

Put the old cable aside and pick up some Mogami, take the sleeving off and put that through the paracord. If you are planning to put all 4 strands in one sleeve then you're looking for 550 paracord. You're also going to need some connectors for the two ends. I suggest Aphenol.
 
http://www.redco.com/Mogami-W2799.html
 
http://www.redco.com/Amphenol-KS3PB-AU.html
 
Aug 10, 2014 at 11:36 PM Post #692 of 801
Ok so I already have 2 of these connectors so I will not need the ones you suggested, but let make sure I'm understanding you correctly, you are suggesting to get the mogami cbale and pull rubber shielding off then feed those four wires through the paracord correct?
 
Aug 11, 2014 at 1:22 AM Post #693 of 801
Yes do that. The cable will be very flexible without the shielding on it. 
 
I find it easiest and quickest to score the rubber insulation with an exacto knife and then peel it off. Then unravel the copper wire wrapping around the wires, and then unravel the paper under that. 
 
The wires are free! 
 
Aug 11, 2014 at 1:55 AM Post #694 of 801
  Ok so I already have 2 of these connectors so I will not need the ones you suggested, but let make sure I'm understanding you correctly, you are suggesting to get the mogami cbale and pull rubber shielding off then feed those four wires through the paracord correct?

 
  Yes do that. The cable will be very flexible without the shielding on it. 
 
I find it easiest and quickest to score the rubber insulation with an exacto knife and then peel it off. Then unravel the copper wire wrapping around the wires, and then unravel the paper under that. 
 
The wires are free! 

Yeah you definitely can't pull the out if its any decent length of a cable. You're going to want to take a knife and run it down the length of the cable just deep enough to cut the rubber.
 
Aug 11, 2014 at 7:55 PM Post #696 of 801
Hey,
 
I'm activly working on this mod.  
 
When I test for connectivity between the inside wires after soldering, my multimeter is reading connectivity.  should the happen?  Im reading around 34 ohms between the connections.
 
looking at it, it doesnt look like I have a solder connection between the connections.
 
Aug 12, 2014 at 9:20 AM Post #697 of 801
Hey,

I'm activly working on this mod.  

When I test for connectivity between the inside wires after soldering, my multimeter is reading connectivity.  should the happen?  Im reading around 34 ohms between the connections.

looking at it, it doesnt look like I have a solder connection between the connections.
How do you mean? Are you measuring from channel to channel?

There is an ATH M50 mod thread in the DIY subforum, and a few weeks ago, someone had a short between channels. I put together a post here.

Short answer is that you should see continuity between channels because they share a common ground. If you measure each channel to ground, you should see identical (or close to identical) resistance values.
 
Aug 12, 2014 at 10:10 AM Post #698 of 801
How do you mean? Are you measuring from channel to channel?

There is an ATH M50 mod thread in the DIY subforum, and a few weeks ago, someone had a short between channels. I put together a post here.

Short answer is that you should see continuity between channels because they share a common ground. If you measure each channel to ground, you should see identical (or close to identical) resistance values.

 
That's actually what I saw.  Connectivity between all of the different channels.  But a resistance between them.  I desoldered everthing and resoldered it again.  Used a magnifying glass and really checked the connections to ensure the soldered didn't touch.  I finished the Mod last night.  It sounds great and now I need to start making some custom cables.
 
Aug 23, 2014 at 5:20 PM Post #701 of 801
I accidentally pulled out all the wires from there bases now i get no sound if i put them against there bases i am only getting sound from the left side no sound from the right unfortunately. HELLLPPP!!! 
 
Sep 6, 2014 at 11:22 AM Post #703 of 801
Hi guys. Yeah after few months of MIA。
I think i am the first idiot to screw up my ATH-M50 RD... Lol...
I guess i just suck at this ****. &*^%##*)_ 
I actually succeeded at the end part. Then i burned my wire that was connected to the other 2 points of the driver.
BOOOOM. Its gone. Yeah its ****. Tried to solder it back on but no, couldnt do it lol. Spent few hours trying to solder it back. And i burned my driver plastic???? How stupid can that be lol.
If anyone is interested in getting this headset from me(if you know how to revive it), contact me. 
Or will there be any kind souls willing to help me fix it at no charges... I'm also okay T_T
Heres a pic. 
 
Sep 6, 2014 at 11:59 PM Post #704 of 801
Hi guys, 
 
new member here with a first post!
 
so i finally decided to ditch my gaming headset and go with a real headset and after reading quite a bit of review, i am 99% sure that the ATH-M50 will be my first set. However, since i plan on using these headphones for gaming and VOIP in addition to music, i would like to use it with the V-moda boompro mic which is why i am looking into this mod. 
 
while this mod looks fairly straightforward, i do not trust myself to do it on a brand new set of headphones (i have no problem taking apart a car engine but things like this scare me, go figure). so what i am looking for is maybe a store that can do it for me or maybe even a local forum member in the Boston area that has done it before and wouldn't mind doing it again (i will pay of course).
 
thanks!
 
Sep 7, 2014 at 12:08 AM Post #705 of 801
Hi guys. Yeah after few months of MIA。
I think i am the first idiot to screw up my ATH-M50 RD... Lol...
I guess i just suck at this ****. &*^%##*)_ 
I actually succeeded at the end part. Then i burned my wire that was connected to the other 2 points of the driver.
BOOOOM. Its gone. Yeah its ****. ....

Dunno how it become like that, but I think it still work as long as the speaker inside is not over heat/burned.
The circuit look OK...

Lot of people can help in putting back all together but it might not worth it due to shipping fees.
 

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