AKG K240 Sextett--Grado'd AKG?
Oct 13, 2007 at 1:55 PM Post #136 of 1,737
Quote:

Originally Posted by 003 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Whatever you do, do NOT poke out the paper behind the radiators
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I had compiled a list of the most common parts that would have to be replaced in a sextett and provided the akg part number, here it is:

cable sleeve - 2040Z1001

earpads - 2058Z10010

elastics - 2040M0303

foam - 2073Z1502

housing - 2058Z0501

lid - 2058Z0201

outer headband - 2040M0209

inner headband - 2058Z0901

swivel - 2040Z0502

cardan - 2040Z0401

Unfortunately you are looking at a very long wait to get parts from AKG.

Here is the akg service manual for the k240 series:
http://www.akg.com/mediendatenbank2/...5d215ac91a.pdf



The foams in mine are practically crumbling away. Is there an alternative replacement for these foams before I try contacting AKG?

Cheers!
 
Oct 13, 2007 at 2:45 PM Post #137 of 1,737
Quote:

Originally Posted by Zorander /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The foams in mine are practically crumbling away. Is there an alternative replacement for these foams before I try contacting AKG?

Cheers!



It's called reticulated foam, and is also known as filter foam, such as the kind used in air and water filters. Any acoustically transparent foam will work if you cut a piece of it to fill the earcups. Its primary function is to serve as a spring between the two sections of the earcup. I have a large roll of the stuff if you want a piece off of it.
 
Oct 13, 2007 at 7:51 PM Post #138 of 1,737
The $26 sextett showed up. I's a late production model.

I haven't listened to them yet - still in the middle of the deep cleaning process. But of course, that requires full disassembly.

It seems to me that the paper on the inside of the 'cup' is heavier than the paper used in my middle-production sextett, but perhaps still not as heavy as my early-production k240-M.

The middle-production sextett paper is very flimsy and almost see-through when held up to the light. This late-production paper has more of a fabric feel to it and completely blots out the light. The K240-M paper is tough and, well, papery.

Does this match what others have observed?
 
Oct 13, 2007 at 8:47 PM Post #139 of 1,737
You are referring to the black paper? Yes it is thicker on the later ones, but I have not tested whether it makes a difference because it seems like it would be of lower significance compared to the other differences. If you want, I will do a FR plot comparison with the same drivers/baffles using different earcup pieces, once I finish replacing all of my test equipment that got destroyed a few weeks ago.
 
Oct 13, 2007 at 8:50 PM Post #140 of 1,737
Quote:

Originally Posted by Fitz /img/forum/go_quote.gif
... once I finish replacing all of my test equipment that got destroyed a few weeks ago.



???
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Is there a good story there?
 
Oct 14, 2007 at 11:36 AM Post #142 of 1,737
Quote:

Originally Posted by Fitz /img/forum/go_quote.gif
It's called reticulated foam, and is also known as filter foam, such as the kind used in air and water filters. Any acoustically transparent foam will work if you cut a piece of it to fill the earcups. Its primary function is to serve as a spring between the two sections of the earcup. I have a large roll of the stuff if you want a piece off of it.


Thanks for the offer. I'm afraid shipping over to me might cause a bit too much though. Do you think those foams that come with computer components (motherboards, etc) are usable enough for replacement purposes?
 
Oct 14, 2007 at 4:42 PM Post #143 of 1,737
Quote:

Originally Posted by Zorander /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Thanks for the offer. I'm afraid shipping over to me might cause a bit too much though. Do you think those foams that come with computer components (motherboards, etc) are usable enough for replacement purposes?


I've seen a lot of different kind of foams with computer parts, so I dunno. To avoid affecting the sound, it would need to be completely open, where you can see straight through it with little difficulty. Regular open cell foam would likely alter the sound from the original design. It also needs to be about 1/4" thick to serve any purpose.

It wouldn't cost much for me to stuff some in an envelope and send it letter rate. The foam itself has virtually no weight.
 
Oct 14, 2007 at 4:52 PM Post #144 of 1,737
It used to be readily available at most home improvement stores. It came in a loop to be used with old style humidifiers. Not sure if it's still available that way, but you could check. Also check your local pet store. The same foam is used by Marineland in their H.O.T. Magnum filters. It's a replacable part that you can buy to slide over the corregated filter, as seen here...

http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/213952/product.web
 
Oct 16, 2007 at 1:53 AM Post #145 of 1,737
On the subject of K240 mechanics, I remember sometime ago somebody saying something about the headband having an internal crimp between the headband wires and the solder posts, which may be subject to reliability issues. I was stripping down a couple broken headphones for parts, a K270S which uses the same headband as K240, and the K141 which uses the lower profile version of the same headband. Both had the plastic blocks at the ends of the headband wires broken completely, and inside there was no crimp or other transition point... the solder posts are the ends of the actual headband wires themselves. The wires just are bent at a slight angle to go out to where they need to be, then molded in the plastic block.

Just thought I'd get that down somewhere in case it ever comes up in the future.
 
Oct 16, 2007 at 2:17 AM Post #146 of 1,737
Yeah, that was me, and my foggy memory. It was a K301 frame that had that issue, dunno why the heck i was thinking k141/k240.

so it's possible that the k(4,5)0(0,1) series may have that problem. Or not.
 
Oct 19, 2007 at 1:14 AM Post #147 of 1,737
Quote:

Originally Posted by 003 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The front grilles actually snap in and out. You can use one of those small flathead hobby screw drivers to pop it off. It will be easier if you pop it off by prying between the two little posts that snap in place as apposed to on top of them. You can tell where the posts are because on the grille there will be two spots where there are no holes, on either side of the driver. The posts are right under those two spots.

Anyway, using photoshop I have created pictures of the early, middle and late baffles based on what I have learned from you. Click them to supersize.

Early production (K240 Sextett EP, K240EP for short):


middle production (K240 Sextett MP, K240MP for short):
http://img526.imageshack.us/my.php?image=middleproductionjt1.png

late production (K240 Sextett LP, K240LP for short):



Peeking through the grilles, mine seems to be the MP variant (and it has orange backing). I may missed it but are there any sonic differences between different Sextett batches?
 
Oct 19, 2007 at 1:29 AM Post #148 of 1,737
Quote:

Originally Posted by Zorander /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Peeking through the grilles, mine seems to be the MP variant (and it has orange backing). I may missed it but are there any sonic differences between different Sextett batches?


Yes, the primary difference being a decrease in bass from one to another (early having most bass, late having least bass). Middle production is my favourite one. The differences are due to the baffle changes, but there are also small variances between drivers, which I currently suspect is due to inconsistencies in the black paper used on the front of the driver capsule. These are normally only visible on frequency response measurements and not through actual listening though, but the baffle differences are very obvious even during brief listening.
 
Oct 19, 2007 at 1:39 AM Post #149 of 1,737
Quote:

Originally Posted by Fitz /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yes, the primary difference being a decrease in bass from one to another (early having most bass, late having least bass). Middle production is my favourite one. The differences are due to the baffle changes, but there are also small variances between drivers, which I currently suspect is due to inconsistencies in the black paper used on the front of the driver capsule. These are normally only visible on frequency response measurements and not through actual listening though, but the baffle differences are very obvious even during brief listening.


The pair I have definitely has bass leaning on the heavier side (not as strong as a bass-heavy K340 anyway).

Can I take you up on the offer for the reticulated foam, Fitz? Let me know how much it will cost to send them my way.

Cheers!
 

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