Hello all, I need some help from a member with ATH-M50. What I need is the size of the outer "cup" of these headphones, more specifically the diameter from hole-to-hole, where the headband loop attaches.

Thanks Tomb, I was finally able to measure the voltages (my old dmm died, then no time, and so on..) so.. Input to Alien (from Soha 12v points through lm317 reg) - 10.50v 5v test point - 5.42v 3.3v test point - 3.30v so everything seems ok, right? Atleast in what concerns the voltages.

Hello. I just finally finished my AlienDAC...well actually I finished all the soldering about a year ago but just yesterday I got to hook it up. When plugging it in to any of my laptops, I first get greeted with the usual message about a USB device being plugged in the port. Straight after...

Hi, I've been listening through a SOHA amp and RP-21's the past 2 years, however, the RP-21 headband is giving up, and although I enjoy these cans a lot, I think it's time for something different. My listening habits have somehow change a bit aswell, I enjoy a high SQ, but as most of my...

Hi, I'm currently with RP-21's...running through AlienDAC/SOHA combo... The RP21's are starting to show some wear after nearly 2 years (cracked headband) so I'm considering new choices. So..should I change to any of the following? Grado SR60 Grado SR80 /SR60i Alessandro MS1 /MS1...

Are there other differences between the two than the display (for rpms?) and the slight change in the shape? If not, then probably its not worth the extra money (dont know the difference actually). Im using a 3956 clone from years and until nw I've never had any problems getting the desired...

Yepp, I get continuity there, also starting from pin 1 and turning the shaft, I get continuity on that "extra" pin on row two and the corresponding other pins. So it looks like the pins are the same order as on that picture (after all its the same blue selector) maybe theres a manufacturing...

Mine is 99% like this one The only difference is the placement of the row with more pins, if you look well, the one marked as position 1 has double the pins of the other rows (the same thing in the side where is the other screw). Well on mine, this row with more pins is on the place where...

thats clear, thanks. So I guess I should just multimeter it somehow to find out which pins/resistor places are for which positions of the switch.

Hi Guys. I've just got from ebay a stepped attenuator "kit" this doesnt come with instruction so I need bit of help. The selector is almost exactly as here http://www.diyfidelity.com.au/produc...products_id=32 so I'm using this as guidance. But I just can't figure out how do I know which pins...

Cant ignore asking...but what is that thing over what you took the pictures of the cmoy? Edit: nevermind, just saw the link to your Pro-Ject Xpression III

If the shipping ends out to be reasonable, I might be in.

Would the Sijosae buffer work, (and how good/bad) as a replacement for OPA2134 in the SOHA output stage. I know Jisbos is out, and its the way to go for SOHA, but until I finish the remaining pending projects, this one looks quite interesting.

If the cap sees higher than 10v across it, there would be a high risk for the cap to blow up. As fordgtlover said, stick with the stock one or find one rated at 16v or higher.

I just ordered one of these for my SOHA The resistors dont look anything special though, and I'm still not sure if it'll fit my enclosure. I've seen these same switches assembled with SMD resistors, so I might still try that.

If the pad was connected to a trace on the same side of the board, I guess you could scratch the coating from the trace with a razorblade and solder directly to it...carefully though.

He mailed me about 3-4 weeks ago that my package had been shipped, hadn't get it yet so emailed him again today. Hope it hasn't got lost somewhere.

I've been considering this one: VOLUME CONTROL TO 12AX7 6SN7 ECC88 ECC82 ECC81 EL34 6V6 - eBay (item 220226677417 end time Jul-20-08 08:23:40 PDT) Though, the resistors seem like the same generic ones I'm getting locally.

Quote: Originally Posted by adamus sorry mate, i was half asleep and didnt read properly. Either is fine. Do whichever is easiest to solder. By the way, we have almost identical setups. IF you havent gone down the jisbos route yet - - - DO IT. night and day. Yeah, I know, I...

Quote: Originally Posted by adamus what guage is it? there is very little power through the wire. Adamus, would you care to elaborate what you mean? I don't see the relevance of the gauge or the power to my question, as in both ways I described, there will be ONLY ONE conductor...

Well, the original headphone jack got broken on the SOHA (actually just the plastic washer cracked) so I thought it would be better to get the best I can find locally... I'm going to use IC/Instrument cable to wire it, I got some stereo one but I'm wondering which is best, to use just one run...

Quote: Originally Posted by vixr count me in to only buy "real" boards, from designers or authorized sellers... I double that. If there qill be a GB for the "official" boards, I'll definitely use that opportunity just so it wont be necessary to get Digi's boards on a later time...

Can't help you with the specs, but I can see the DAC IC is different, don't know this chip enough to say if it's better of worse. The strange part is they call it an amp but there are no specs on the amplification part. The AlienDAC by itself can not drive headphones and needs a separate...

Quote: Originally Posted by FallenAngel At 80%-90% volume on a SOHA, you'll blow your brains out with every headphone imaginable, might as well throw in the 51R, or better yet, get some nice boutique in there (I never liked any resistor personally, but if you must), put something nice...

Looks like its fixed now. This is what I did: 1- solder a wire (solid core copper - its what I had in hand) from pot body to Signal ground 2- solder Jack grounds to a wire attached under a screw in the case after these 2 changes, there was still a very light buzz (you could barely hear...