In my experience the soundstage of the Taks didn't get WIDER, or DEEPER, but instead filled in more, if that makes sense. The tubes developed a more natural, realistic sense of space, being better able to give a feeling of the room. Like a better atmosphere for the music. I don't know if that...

You can just replace the fuse at the IEC inlet in the MK1 as well. I have a 2.5a SB (that’s the fuse rating for NA voltage) SR purple fuse in that slot. That’s where the power comes in, so that’s the best fuse to change I think. I think the change was subtle :scream: - but worthwhile, I guess...

One thought about tube choices and gear pairings (sorry I'm behind the discussion): I find all of my Russian tubes (and I'm sure 6S2S are no different) to be SUPER super quiet. Someone using sensitive dynamics like a VC would notice this more than someone using planars. Even easy to drive...

Same adapter, and I believe if you can use a 6J5 you can use a 6C5. They're pretty close electrically, as Mordy mentioned above. I couldn't tell you the difference sound wise - in general I find 6C5 to be a bit more balanced, smooth and intimate sounding than 6J5.

I think the best 6J5 I've heard are Brimars, just the least expensive ones from Langrex. But they are still expensive. What really knocked me out as being good deals are the metal cans, the earlier the better. I have a quad of Ken-Rad 6C5 (precursor to 6J5) from 1944 that are really quite...

I had a Crackatwoa when I got my HA-300, having owned a Crack before that. And yeah, Bottlehead makes some GREAT amps (or more accurately makes a great pile of parts that YOU make into a great amp!). But top of the line tubes really do make that much difference. And I personally came to enjoy...

Wow, yours look so pristine. The ones I found (VERY cheap on Aliexpress, so maybe there’s my problem) look like the end of Friday shift went to the pub for a few, then realized they missed an order, finished them, THEN rolled them around in an old barn for some reason. Very sketchy looking, yet...

I haven’t heard Elrogs, but I thought Taks were more solid sounding than WE. More you are there, on the stage. Very real sounding. I thought WE were softer sounding, but not much. Taks are a bit more present/extended both top and bottom, midrange is not as forward (or magical) as with WE. WE has...

For the HD800S, stock tubes are a bit warm and smooth. Nice, but doesn’t play as well with the Senn’s strengths. Get some tubes that enhance soundstage, and you’ll see the synergy. WE300b and Russian 6C8C, or what I had last night Raytheon brown base 6J5WGT, will have music flying around your head.

Thanks for the info, that’s really helpful. That actually makes the EML sound similar to the Taks I have now - more “normal” sounding than the “quirky” WE, with strong, tight, punchy bass. Maybe I’ll have to do THAT comparison someday.

Eh, you’re in a much better position than me to answer your question! I haven’t ascended to the level of amp rolling for my tubes yet. But now you owe us an amp comparison at some point :) Interesting that you find the EMLs more reference than the Elrog. I’ve heard neither, but Elrogs are often...

For 300Bs, in my opinion don't bother with anything but the best. I don't usually like to say expensive=best, but the WE and Takatsuki I've heard are just so amazing it'll bring tears to your eyes. Elrog are the others that'll be mentioned. They completely transform the amp into a real hi-fi...

Just my 2 cents, but to me the HD800S’s best trick is the soundstage, both width and depth. Still haven’t heard anything like it. So, that’s the feature that I want to lean in to. Tubes are known for their ability to create a sense of space and depth, more so than SS. So for me, tubes win - and...

Just listening to them both now. There does seem to be a bit more in the upper mids/lower treble on the Hifimans, giving voices a bit more "clarity," if not more detail. But it's not a huge difference on my system, maybe yours is different. So basically, I agree with you :) But there's more...

I currently have ‘em both. The HE1000se is pretty much spot on for what you’re asking. Even if I’m not actually sure they’re BETTER, but more of a side grade. The HE1000se is definitely more present in the sub bass, and is definitely at least as fast and detailed - but it misses a bit in the mid...

For such a pillar of the 300B community, Mr. Mayer sure does like making not-300Bs :) But I'm sure everyone, myself included, is very exciting to get more details. Has anyone else tried making actual new tube types in the modern age?

As has been mentioned probably a lot in this thread, try the Auteur hybrids to massage the warmth of the VC, while being MUCH more comfortable than the BE2s.

TOTL 300b, even in my limited experience, is a BIG jump. They just make everything sound more coherent and realistic, with the different options being flavour variations of more coherent and realistic. And, I also thought that the Japanese 22DE4s didn’t make too much difference at first. It was...

I had the Clears with my Pendant once upon a time. I wasn’t so much of a fan of the Clears in the end, so take my opinion with a grain of salt; but I thought the synergy was a little off. Like combining two devices with sharp precise impactful signatures cancelled each other out. The Clears...

For sure could be brain burn in. But then why does it occur in different ways with different headphones? And then why is my hearing of the HE1K consistent thereafter? I did have one headphone, ZMF Verite Open, that had brain burn every time I put it on. But only that headphone. Brains are...

I’m just bewildered as to what actually is burning in. The pads? They did soften up quite a bit, but would that account for the amount of change? It was a BIG change.

My HE1Kse definitely changed A LOT with burn in, surprisingly, for a planar. But the HA-300 is a fantastic match - still speedy, detailed and expansive, but with the option to roll in some warmer tubes. Great synergy there. Sorry about your wallet.

And it may be true for the HA-300, but with the rarity of different 22DE4, it’s hard to know! All the common coin base Americans are similar sounding to me.

Last night, for the first time since I got into The Quads, I put in one of my previous favourites, a pair of 6F8G National Union round plates. They...actually held up pretty well! I've made a bunch of tweaks since I last used them, including a new fuse (barely noticeable), new interconnects...

For what it’s worth, I would describe my LCD-4 the same way as you. I’ve often wondered if it’s because it has more upper treble, 10k-ish if I remember correctly, and how it affects how I hear the balance of the headphone; or if it is indeed just unit variability.