Contact info on this page. http://phonoclone.com/rjm.html

I like the whole idea of the Kameleon. It really takes the guess work out of matching different headphones with different amps. Thanks for sharing your efforts, BMF.    Oh, boy, I think I should order a set of these boards soon. (I'd really like to try the Cavalli hybrid you mentioned earlier...

Hey, Hey, BMF. Good to see you're still noodling with the audio gear!   How does the Kameleon's sound compare to Solderdude's other products? I liked his tube designs, but the Polaris didn't entirely win me over.    I picked up a pair of Phillips SHP9500s for a great price and I've been...

Looks like a cool project, BMF. With the filters, do you find your headphones becoming more similar, perhaps to the point where a low cost headphone becomes the near equivalent of a more expensive one?

File under better-late-than-never.   My impressions... These phones required a bit of burn-in. Maybe 10 hours. Out of the box, there was too much energy at the top end, so they were fatiguing to my ears.   After 10 hours, they sound very good out of a portable digital player or smartphone...

Canadians, they're currently $70 on Newegg.ca. http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826138190

I'd love to attend but other commitments won't allow it. Have a great session, all. And share photos and impressions, please!

I'm using a restored Yamaha A-550 to drive headphones. The caps haven't broken in but I'd have to say it's a nice combination with my orthos off the speaker taps. Definitely on the warm side and never fatiguing.   

Dang, I won't be able to make it. Please take plenty of photos and share! I hope you all have a great meet.

An enthusiastic if tentative yes. I'll bring RJM Sapphire II amp and Hifiman HE-6 headphones. Perhaps DIY stuff too. 

Thanks, nick! I don't know how I'd overlooked it in the basement (or how long it's been since it was last turned on.) Very non-fatiguing sound quality. My only wish is that it had a pre-out and a main-in so I could add a little tube pre-amp in front of it. Once I've enjoyed it for a bit, I'll...

  Not exactly vintage, but certainty elderly...   I saved this early 90's Denon PMA-860 from my mother's basement, where it was used as part of a laserdisc karaoke system. I'm using it to drive HE-6 off the speaker taps. (The bamboo box on top houses an L-pad resistor network to attenuate the...

The location of the mod has changed since I originally posted it (darn that google). Here's the location it now resides at... https://plus.google.com/109082108141353641215/posts/GR5QRgMANZa

Signing in with some impressions. My build: Appearance: I love the Victorian or Steampunk look of these things. Black walnut cups from 7keys and pads are Zonk G-crush. Headband is from a set of Urbanear Plantains. Drivers are flush mounted to the rim of cup, with a thin strip of duct tape...

Wow, way to go! Lots of good work here. I especially admire your ability to acknowledge that some changes don't make any change!    REW is invaluable. It's worth the time and effort; it helps confirm what you hear by letting you "see" it too. 

Cross-posted from one of the T50RP threads.   ZGLISZCZ proposes using pre-formed balsa strips. Sounds like an interesting alternative to adhesive felt.    Quote:

I think I recall reading something to the effect that you shouldn't modify or alter the LED on the O2 amp because it was actually being used in the signal path as a diode. Or something. (Note that I'm talking about the O2 amp here. I raise this just as a curiosity/trivial point that in some...

  1) Depends on the cable, but with the Canare quad cable I mentioned above, you'll get two white and two blue wires, if memory serves me. To differentiate them, you'll need a multimeter to test which ends which. Alternatively, you can trace one wire from end to end....not recommended. :)  ...

If you're new to DIY cables, why not start cheap and cheerful? I'd recommend using something like Canare L-4E5C quad microphone cable. Once you strip off the outer coating, the shielding and the paper and strings, you'll have four wires that are spiralled around each other. You can leave it...

Are you sure it's the DAC? (Can you reproduce the problem by hooking the Polaris up to another source (CD player, iPod, Sansa, etc)?)

One of the beautifies of the Polaris is that you can change all the settings — except the gain — on the fly. So you can A/B test the different settings instantly. It makes finding your preferences much easier than if you had to turn-off the amp with every setting change. 

Thanks, fleasbaby. 

Anyone compared hard-gluing the driver into place versus friction-fitting them with tape/weather stripping? Any appreciable difference in sound? Also, is the consensus that the driver should be mounted flush with the end of the cup? 

I think there are actually three versions of the Project Polaris. The rare v1.0, which is the version that went to some early adopters. There's version v1.1, which was the recent production model (which is graphed in iancraig10's post above). And now a new version. Fran's explains the...

This post shows that PX200 drivers look very similar to the PX100 drivers. The dimensions are similar to the PX100 drivers I have (which I measured at 46.5 mm).