[Roses54]

Some photos i recently took of my Ironwood VO

Amazing pics! Fantastic looking set

 

[qboogie]

Amazing pics! Fantastic looking set

Great photography!

Side note: My friend who is a photographer says she gets peeved when people say ,"Your camera takes great photos," to which she always responds, "Your mouth makes nice words."

 

[PierPP]

Great photography!

He has a great camera for sure

 

[ColdsnapBry]

Ah dang, it's much harder to decide between the Aeolus (my trusty headphone for 3 years) or the Verite Open. Now that I have them next to each other and comparing!

Maybe someone who also had to decide could share their experience? It will serve as my one and only headphone, I'm not the type to hold onto multiple headphones.

I'm appreciating the extra bass detail, how it doesn't blurr during busy passages and soundstage the Verite Open has. I'm also appreciating the mids on the Aeolus with that little bass bleed into the mids the Aeolus has.

 

[kumar402]

Ah dang, it's much harder to decide between the Aeolus (my trusty headphone for 3 years) or the Verite Open. Now that I have them next to each other and comparing!

Maybe someone who also had to decide could share their experience? It will serve as my one and only headphone, I'm not the type to hold onto multiple headphones.

I'm appreciating the extra bass detail, how it doesn't blurr during busy passages and soundstage the Verite Open has. I'm also appreciating the mids on the Aeolus with that little bass bleed into the mids the Aeolus has.

It looks like you need one Verite Closed which is like Verite Open but slightly darker and thicker tonality. So that may be the headphone you are looking for

 

[ColdsnapBry]

It looks like you need one Verite Closed which is like Verite Open but slightly darker and thicker tonality. So that may be the headphone you are looking for

Yes, that sounds to my preference for sure. But I have a weird seal/ pressure issue with headphones for some reason, like Aeolus is almost too pressurized for me but I can manage with it.

 

[TheMiddleSky]

Ah dang, it's much harder to decide between the Aeolus (my trusty headphone for 3 years) or the Verite Open. Now that I have them next to each other and comparing!

Maybe someone who also had to decide could share their experience? It will serve as my one and only headphone, I'm not the type to hold onto multiple headphones.

I'm appreciating the extra bass detail, how it doesn't blurr during busy passages and soundstage the Verite Open has. I'm also appreciating the mids on the Aeolus with that little bass bleed into the mids the Aeolus has.

Back when I upgrade from aeolus to verite I had same problem as you.

Ultimately that make me let Aeolus go is the depth/dimension of each notes. Not just depth in soundstage, but for example on each percussion instrument, Verite able to give better structure imaging of instrument, make them as "whole".

Not to mention advantage of other aspect like detail and speed while still maintain naturalness of Aeolus.

 

[ColdsnapBry]

Back when I upgrade from aeolus to verite I had same problem as you.

Ultimately that make me let Aeolus go is the depth/dimension of each notes. Not just depth in soundstage, but for example on each percussion instrument, Verite able to give better structure imaging of instrument, make them as "whole".

Not to mention advantage of other aspect like detail and speed while still maintain naturalness of Aeolus.

Yea, you're definitely right. I'm hearing a few bass lines differently than I use to on my Aeolus. Hearing the subtle shifts in bass strings that I never picked up.

I've also built my system around the Aeolus with the Jot2 and SW51+, both neutral'ish amps. Curious to see my thoughts when my Bottlehead Crack + Speedball comes back from a repair.

Edit: Ah, my pair only has like 50 hours on. Wasn't sure how much the previous owner used it. I'll let them burn in for a bit!

 

[kumar402]

Could someone point me to right hardcase size that comes with Verite. I lost mine during move unfortunately. I will buy similar sized case for long term storage
Found the detail

 

[CaptainFantastic]

Ah dang, it's much harder to decide between the Aeolus (my trusty headphone for 3 years) or the Verite Open. Now that I have them next to each other and comparing!

Maybe someone who also had to decide could share their experience? It will serve as my one and only headphone, I'm not the type to hold onto multiple headphones.

I'm appreciating the extra bass detail, how it doesn't blurr during busy passages and soundstage the Verite Open has. I'm also appreciating the mids on the Aeolus with that little bass bleed into the mids the Aeolus has.

Keep them both is my advice. The way you describe how you like both for different characteristics makes it clear that you will miss the one you sell. Then a year out, on a relaxed Friday evening while pouring yourself a second glass, you will end up re-buying it and losing money in the process.

 

[Mike C]

Thanks, I appreciate the recommendation. I'll get around to getting the verite perf lambskin pads and see what think.

Another thing I've noticed this week is the very prominent difference between A/B testing with SS vs. my tube amp. For example, right now with Universe perf lamb pads on the VO, I'm going back and forth listening to music with my Bottlehead Crack Speedball w/NOS tubes and the headphone amp in the RME ADI-2 DAC.

There is some more bass extension with the BHC, but the high end frequencies are softened, blurry (less detailed/crisp) and obviously this is a different presentation for my perception of detail and clarity in the VO. With the ADI-2 output, it's crystal clear, very detailed, and precise, but definitely less warm as the bass is tighter (nothing a little EQ could not address however, but it's not going to be "warm"). These days, I find myself leaning towards the analytical side of listening and preferring the SS presentation more.

I can tell you exactly why you hear the softened high frequencies with the Crack amp; you are quite simply hearing the electrolytic output capacitors.
It's a good OTL amp, I think the only 'compromised' thing about it is the output cap; and very, very few OTL amps use film caps due to the very large size (in the uF values needed) and high cost.
My Felicity OTL amp, with film output caps, has exceptional clarity and detail; I hear some fine details I never heard before on very familiar CDs, such as pre echo I never knew of. It has run in now and is a very good amp indeed.

If you built the Crack yourself, you will be well competent to change the caps to something like Jantzen or Claritycap film caps which are available in high values. It will not be easy as these are big, you will need to fit them outside the box, or get a larger box and fit everything inside. It's a lot of trouble and expense but IMO well worth doing as it will do two things; fix the specific issue you have and give you exactly what you seem to want (the best of each of the 2 amps); and take the amp to close to the highest level there is at any sane price - I know valve amps and I am not kidding. At a rough guess it would go from say a £1000 level to at least a £3000 level.

 

[skhan007]

I can tell you exactly why you hear the softened high frequencies with the Crack amp; you are quite simply hearing the electrolytic output capacitors.
It's a good OTL amp, I think the only 'compromised' thing about it is the output cap; and very, very few OTL amps use film caps due to the very large size (in the uF values needed) and high cost.
My Felicity OTL amp, with film output caps, has exceptional clarity and detail; I hear some fine details I never heard before on very familiar CDs, such as pre echo I never knew of. It has run in now and is a very good amp indeed.

If you built the Crack yourself, you will be well competent to change the caps to something like Jantzen or Claritycap film caps which are available in high values. It will not be easy as these are big, you will need to fit them outside the box, or get a larger box and fit everything inside. It's a lot of trouble and expense but IMO well worth doing as it will do two things; fix the specific issue you have and give you exactly what you seem to want (the best of each of the 2 amps); and take the amp to close to the highest level there is at any sane price - I know valve amps and I am not kidding. At a rough guess it would go from say a £1000 level to at least a £3000 level.

Thank you- this is great information! While I did not build my BHC myself, I'm quite handy with a soldering iron and service my own tube guitar amps, when needed. At taking a quick peek, I believe we're talking about the pair of blue 100 uf caps in the output section right next to the speedball components, correct? Could you kindly recommend values for recommended replacements for the Jantzen or Claritycap film caps you mentioned? My BHC is in a granite case (below), so modding the box is not possible, but I'm not opposed to having the caps outside the housing, if that's possible. If you have any links to any of the above, I would be most appreciative! I can also try to search on the BHC thread to see pics, as well.

 

[Mike C]

Thank you- this is great information! While I did not build my BHC myself, I'm quite handy with a soldering iron and service my own tube guitar amps, when needed. At taking a quick peek, I believe we're talking about the pair of blue 100 uf caps in the output section right next to the speedball components, correct? Could you kindly recommend values for recommended replacements for the Jantzen or Claritycap film caps you mentioned? My BHC is in a granite case (below), so modding the box is not possible, but I'm not opposed to having the caps outside the housing, if that's possible. If you have any links to any of the above, I would be most appreciative! I can also try to search on the BHC thread to see pics, as well.

Yes, the output caps are between the signal valves, and connect to the headphone socket. Blue on the bottlehead site.
100uF is a good value. Perfect for 600 ohm phones, very good for 300ohms phones.
With 300ohm phones, the key frequency (-3dB) is about 5Hz. Virtually no loss at 4x this, 20Hz. Opinions differ about phase effects, but this is definitely OK at 10x, i.e. 50Hz, and I reckon it's OK at quite a bit less than this, say 30Hz. I use 100uF and bass is definitely great (Holly Cole's Train Song is excellent for bass quantity and above all quality!). I've seen a design using 50uF with 300ohm phones with good results, so nothing here is hard and fast.
If size constraints force you to go for lower value caps than 100uF, I'm sure that about 80uF would be fine, but I tend to suggest more than 50uF unless you are forced to go that low.

The case is absolutely lovely! Gorgeous ... I want one.

You may find space above the chassis, it is worth checking. Don't forget to insulate any exposed leads, obvious I know but best to say it.
For details of the caps I mention, have a look at:
www.hificollective.co.uk/components/capacitors.html where you will find size info. You should be able to find caps more locally.
For information on cap sound and quality:
www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
I find this a very good guide indeed. Note that there are very few good caps over 50uF, our choices are limited.

Just a suggestion or two.
First, do look on the bottlehead thread, and also google the subject, also search on Audio Asylum.
Caps can easily be fixed in place with silicon mastic - but it gives an ugly result. Can be hidden:
Look on ebay for 'plastic box electronics' or similar, you might find a black box that will cover the cap; glue it on carefully with small amounts of clear silicon mastic and it will look good.
An interesting project - lots of homework needed.
Feel free to email me mdcarrick@yahoo.co.uk
I'm not that much of an expert really but I'm willing to help.

 

[skhan007]

Yes, the output caps are between the signal valves, and connect to the headphone socket. Blue on the bottlehead site.
100uF is a good value. Perfect for 600 ohm phones, very good for 300ohms phones.
With 300ohm phones, the key frequency (-3dB) is about 5Hz. Virtually no loss at 4x this, 20Hz. Opinions differ about phase effects, but this is definitely OK at 10x, i.e. 50Hz, and I reckon it's OK at quite a bit less than this, say 30Hz. I use 100uF and bass is definitely great (Holly Cole's Train Song is excellent for bass quantity and above all quality!). I've seen a design using 50uF with 300ohm phones with good results, so nothing here is hard and fast.
If size constraints force you to go for lower value caps than 100uF, I'm sure that about 80uF would be fine, but I tend to suggest more than 50uF unless you are forced to go that low.

The case is absolutely lovely! Gorgeous ... I want one.

You may find space above the chassis, it is worth checking. Don't forget to insulate any exposed leads, obvious I know but best to say it.
For details of the caps I mention, have a look at:
www.hificollective.co.uk/components/capacitors.html where you will find size info. You should be able to find caps more locally.
For information on cap sound and quality:
www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
I find this a very good guide indeed. Note that there are very few good caps over 50uF, our choices are limited.

Just a suggestion or two.
First, do look on the bottlehead thread, and also google the subject, also search on Audio Asylum.
Caps can easily be fixed in place with silicon mastic - but it gives an ugly result. Can be hidden:
Look on ebay for 'plastic box electronics' or similar, you might find a black box that will cover the cap; glue it on carefully with small amounts of clear silicon mastic and it will look good.
An interesting project - lots of homework needed.
Feel free to email me mdcarrick@yahoo.co.uk
I'm not that much of an expert really but I'm willing to help.

Thank you- Very kind of you take the time and provide such thorough guidance. I very much appreciate the gesture! After a bit of reading today, I've seen some other folks suggest output cap values of 330uf or 470uf (so they've suggested going to larger values vs. the smaller 50 uf value, quite curious). Also, I'm wondering if switching the input tube from 12au7 to 6SN7 would yield the desired clarity in the treble frequencies.

 

[Mike C]

Thank you- Very kind of you take the time and provide such thorough guidance. I very much appreciate the gesture! After a bit of reading today, I've seen some other folks suggest output cap values of 330uf or 470uf (so they've suggested going to larger values vs. the smaller 50 uf value, quite curious). Also, I'm wondering if switching the input tube from 12au7 to 6SN7 would yield the desired clarity in the treble frequencies.

Re the large uF values, a quick mental calculation. 50uF works OK with 300ohm phones, so 470uF will work OK with 32 ohm phones. I guess 330uF would be reasonable with 32ohm phones, and as there are few absolute truths in hifi, and theory often does not agree with practice, for all I know it could be very good.
Anyway I think the large values you mention are to allow the amp to drive low impedance phones, not needed for 300 ohms.

It would be worth trying a 6SN7. One good thing about these is that affordable NOS ones are pretty good. The best ones fetch crazy prices, but more run of the mill NOS at reasonable prices are fairly close in performance; well that's my experience with 12SN7s.
Possibly even better is the E80CC which plugs right in, but you need to be careful as it takes more heater current. Essential to get advice on this before risking it. It's a superb valve (I've used it); Tungsram are the best, and will give more detail, Mullard are good, smooth but a touch laid back. Both are far better than any 12AU7.