[HeyManslowdown97]

The price of dual AK4493 T1 is also dropped now, not as expensive as what it used to.

With the better LDO’s don’t really think it’s worth upgrading if you already have the DSD Pro T1 Ak4497eq

However, if you have a Z3 with the Ak4493 it’s definitely worth looking at the Ak4493 2x and replacing the LDOs and the MSOP as an upgrade.

You can always get the module ak4497eq as the prices go down.

Also, wanted to mention that it’s not just impedance issue with matching headphones; it’s also sensitivity. Once I put the high PSSR LDOs lowering floor noise DBs and fixed the Power Rails magically the op amps started to perform like they should.

“THE PROBLEM: Put simply, a lot of headphones are not well suited for a lot of sources and vice-versa. There’s more involved than just using headphones with the right impedance. One of the most important things to consider is the sensitivity (efficiency) of the headphones.“

http://nwavguy.blogspot.com/2011/09/more-power.html?m=1

The audio signature is there but the amps sound more powerful and able to handle frequency response.

Which leads me to my last point highly compressed MP3 files don’t have the best frequency response and dynamic range so it’s something to considered when listening to your Zishans.

“Remember that the bit rate for uncompressed, CD-quality audio is 1411kbps. The initial goal of MP3 was to produce 'acceptable' results when coding at 128kbps. That's a data reduction of over 90 percent, producing a file about an 11th the size of the raw 16-bit, 44.1kHz PCM file.“

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.so...ues/what-data-compression-does-your-music?amp

 

[citral23]

I agree, despite being not ideal on paper, the DSD pro paired with low Z (16 ohms) single dynamic drivers sounds fine to me. Still, it sounds best with 150-200 ohms cans or buds because of the relatively high output Z.

With sensitive multi bas however it's not great, so far I've seen the AK4495 DSD is perfect for those because of very low output Z, Z2 and Z3 are terrible, don't know about the T1 yet.

 

[HeyManslowdown97]

...because of very low output Z, Z2 and Z3 are terrible...

Actually believe this has to do with the low frequency of the clocks at 11.2* being sampled to the DAC in the Z series vs the 45* 49* dual crystal clocks found in DSD modes and now the T1.

* apologies for not exact specs

 

[citral23]

I don't think so, as I've graphed that removing the output resistors on the Z2 prevents the FR going all over the place with multi BAs in the treble. Output caps are responsible for bass roll-off (as documented by the O2 conceptor and many other sound engineering websites), which isn't all that dramatic imo.

But there might be more to it, I'll try to document myself on your theory.

 

[HeyManslowdown97]

I don't think so, as I've graphed that removing the output resistors on the Z2 prevents the FR going all over the place with multi BAs in the treble. Output caps are responsible for bass roll-off (as documented by the O2 conceptor and many other sound engineering websites), which isn't all that dramatic imo.

But there might be more to it, I'll try to document myself on your theory.

The Opa1622 mods were somewhat of panacea the reason it charted better was because not only does it have high output current to power iems, it also doubles as high performance ultra low noise and low distortion op amp that helped the FR in your chart.

The Opa1622 mod on the DSD Pro in my opinion was masking a bigger problem in the power rails of the player. (It was a Great concept though and well thought out. It just restricts your op amp rolling)

The CMOS LDOs are excellent solution for low power application because they pack a power punch without hardly any loss. (which I believe turns the bipolar op amps into hybrids “BiCMOS” so you get the best of both worlds!)

That said putting in the better LDOs will enhance the opa1622 mod to greater heights!

 

[fabien32]

ES9038Q3M

I personally wait for the 4499 because to me the sound of the T1 with 4497 already sound better.than any of my 9038 dacs. also i know that the 9038 have a sound problem (ESS THD ‘Hump) that need special tuning

 

[HeyManslowdown97]

Tried putting the AD8397 in the lpf of the T1 & it's unstable! (When I turned the T1 on after installing the AD8397 2x the battery was drained to one cell and there was static with no audible signal. I was forced to press the reset button.)

Not sure about the AD8397 mod in the SE that Ivan posted since I opted for the AD8620BR (which sounds great and better than it did in my DSD Pro- not sure why though!)...The main problem with the AD8620 I had in the DSD Pro is that there was some harshness in some of the higher frequency in certain tracks but sounded amazing in the DSD Pro despite this problem! I’m sure it sounds different and maybe better in the lpf as a unity gain??

The Lfp balanced in the T1 is native and non-single ended which is pretty awesome. I put two Opa1612-Q1s to drive the AD8620. They really compliment each quite well IMHO! (Side note: I did improve the lpf balance in my DSD Pro to make it sound more fuller with better bass response by replacing stock power caps with ultra low esr caps in the reserve. It sounds more balanced sounding like two mono “isolated” tracks being played and intertwined from the source mix in “stereo”)

 

[DBaldock9]

Tried putting the AD8397 in the lpf of the T1 & it's unstable! (When I turned the T1 on after installing the AD8397 2x the battery was drained to one cell and there was static with no audible signal. I was forced to press the reset button.)

Not sure about the AD8397 mod in the SE that Ivan posted since I opted for the AD8620BR (which sounds great and better than it did in my DSD Pro- not sure why though!)...The main problem with the AD8620 I had in the DSD Pro is that there was some harshness in some of the higher frequency in certain tracks but sounded amazing in the DSD Pro despite this problem! I’m sure it sounds different and maybe better in the lpf as a unity gain??

The Lfp balanced in the T1 is native and non-single ended which is pretty awesome. I put two Opa1612-Q1s to drive the AD8620. They really compliment each quite well IMHO! (Side note: I did improve the lpf balance in my DSD Pro to make it sound more fuller with better bass response by replacing stock power caps with ultra low esr caps in the reserve. It sounds more balanced sounding like two mono “isolated” tracks being played and intertwined from the source mix in “stereo”)

In the AD8397 datasheet, there's a Note - "To improve stability, a gain of 2 or greater is recommended."
If the gain of the LPF circuit is currently less than 2, you may have to attenuate the signal going into the LPF, and adjust the gain of the circuit to at least 2.
Another thing that could possibly help with stability, is to add bypass caps at the power pins of the op-amps.

 

[HeyManslowdown97]

Another thing that could possibly help with stability, is to add bypass caps at the power pins of the op-amps.

Thought about this too! If it’s question of adding an output cap on the original DAC (I can do it) But I honestly don’t have the slightest knowledge about how to make it stable by doubling the gain, etc that I will let someone with more knowledge post it’s solution.

There’s also another contact at the bottom of the chip which must be grounded???

Took a pic for the thread when I removed it! (Sorry it definitely needs to be cleaned)

Opted for the AD8022- what a nice sounding chip in the 3.5mm for my DSD Pro with two Opa2228 in the lfp. Really nice sound; it’s very intimidate with a nice soundstage!

Love the rawness of the AD8022 and yet it’s also refined! Most likely underrated because it doesn’t have an impressive spec sheet???

 

[captblaze]

any suggestions besides the trash bin for a brand new Z1 that wont respond to touch input on the bottom edge of the display? even hijacked one of my kids Nintendo ds pen to do a more precise input, but no response while tapping play, play mode and settings, but I can side scroll albums

 

[IcedFrosty]

any suggestions besides the trash bin for a brand new Z1 that wont respond to touch input on the bottom edge of the display? even hijacked one of my kids Nintendo ds pen to do a more precise input, but no response while tapping play, play mode and settings, but I can side scroll albums

Hello there,

The screen on T1 using resistive screen. Did you put too much pressure on it? It will work with just a little push in the soft screen. If you got depressed and operate the T1, I think that's a bad idea.

I suggest you to use the "BTN for next" feature, that allows you to select song blindly. If the screen is still working but a bit unresponsive, try not to make it worse. Oh yeah, did this happened after you calibrate the screen? Or you haven't tried to?

 

[citral23]

any suggestions besides the trash bin for a brand new Z1 that wont respond to touch input on the bottom edge of the display? even hijacked one of my kids Nintendo ds pen to do a more precise input, but no response while tapping play, play mode and settings, but I can side scroll albums

Try to do a factory reset

 

[captblaze]

Try to do a factory reset

can that be done without access to settings? the top half of screen responds, the bottom... not so much

 

[IcedFrosty]

can that be done without access to settings? the top half of screen responds, the bottom... not so much

Sure. Hold the volume down and power button at the same time for couple of seconds till it's blanking or something. Or try to use the reset button beneath the player (the small button near the charging LED).

Hopes this help.

 

[fabien32]

my muses02 arrived today i love the sound improvement