WA22 let's roll some tubes (Done Mod, Burnning-in)
Dec 9, 2009 at 8:04 PM Post #61 of 833
I had same problem before. 6F8G will quit down with use. Let it run about 20 hours, and see if the noise still there. Keep the wire away form the EML, that thing is HOT. If you want add some tubiness back to your system, use GEC 6080.
 
Dec 9, 2009 at 8:16 PM Post #62 of 833
Thanks Seamaster. Yeah it's a shame that adapter cable exits right towards the rectifier, which as you say does get hot as blazes. I might ask Glenn what his cable outer is rated to for heat actually, as I think it'll be impossible to get the wire more than a centimeter or two away from the EML.
 
Dec 9, 2009 at 8:28 PM Post #63 of 833
turn the Cap little bit, that will give you more clearance, 2~3 cm is all you need I think. Have you try to clean pins and caps? I aways clean all sockets, pins and contacts before use them.
 
Dec 9, 2009 at 8:57 PM Post #65 of 833
I use Deoxit Gold GX5. For pins and caps I spray it on a Q-tip then wipe the pins with. You do not have to clean them off, just leave the product on there. For Sockets I just spray in side and holes. Works geat! for heavily stained the pins, apply Deoxit Gold GX5, and let it sit over night and do it again.
 
Dec 9, 2009 at 10:30 PM Post #68 of 833
Cheers for the link. That stuff isn't cheap, but I guess it probably lasts quite a while.

On another note, I don't know about anyone else, but I do get a kick out of the thought that I'm listening to tubes manufacturered as far back as during WWII, and they sound great
L3000.gif
.
 
Dec 10, 2009 at 12:04 AM Post #69 of 833
Quote:

Originally Posted by pedalhead /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Thanks Seamaster. Yeah it's a shame that adapter cable exits right towards the rectifier, which as you say does get hot as blazes. I might ask Glenn what his cable outer is rated to for heat actually, as I think it'll be impossible to get the wire more than a centimeter or two away from the EML.


I got those same adapters from Glenn last month. Before I ordered them I asked him if he could make them with red wire as suggested by Seamaster and he said: I have new silacon [sic] rubber red wire that I am going to use on the new adapters that i'll be making for you. I then asked him what was "new" about the wire and his answer was: "New wire is more flexable has more strands can stand high temperatures and looks better. I think it sounds better Hard to tell just 5" of different wire in a [w]hole system. It's much more expensive for me to buy. You will like it." --Regards Glenn. I know his answer doesn't exactly address what the cable is rated at but it does tell you a little more about its makeup. I hope this helps.
 
Dec 10, 2009 at 12:18 AM Post #71 of 833
Quote:

Originally Posted by pedalhead /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Cheers for the link. That stuff isn't cheap, but I guess it probably lasts quite a while.

On another note, I don't know about anyone else, but I do get a kick out of the thought that I'm listening to tubes manufacturered as far back as during WWII, and they sound great
L3000.gif
.



That stuff works like magic. Well worthy the money. I spray all the socket and connectors when I 1st got my WA22

I feel the same way. 
 
Dec 10, 2009 at 2:55 PM Post #73 of 833
Quote:

Originally Posted by pedalhead /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Great news...the noise on my amp is definitely caused by the proximity of the left adapter wire to the rectifier tube. I've rotated it as far away as possible, and it's no longer an issue. Phew!


Good to hear. I might order one of these adapters and try out the 6F8G.
 
Dec 10, 2009 at 4:38 PM Post #75 of 833
Quote:

Originally Posted by pedalhead /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Good idea, though I'd recommend getting two adapters
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I just might do that. :wink:

What tubes make the most dramatic changes? I am wondering what order I should roll the tubes.. Rec/Driver/power?
 

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