Usb 24 192khz M2tech Hiface
Jul 15, 2010 at 2:31 PM Post #1,456 of 1,958
This USBface is 24/96 input or 24/192input?
confused_face_2.gif

 
Jul 15, 2010 at 2:58 PM Post #1,458 of 1,958


Quote:
Changing to a 1.5-2m length digital cable would likely have the same effect, assuming that reflections are the problem.
 
Steve N.
Empirical Audio

Ah, yes the cable length chosen so as reflections hopefully arrive at the DAC in between the transition decision stages. I reckon it's probably better to try getting rid of the reflections rather than try to manipulate their arrival time at the DAC. Anyway, what's the price of buying a quality cable of 1.5 - 2m ? I doubt its' anything like the price of two attenuators. 
 
 
Jul 16, 2010 at 2:24 PM Post #1,459 of 1,958
A good S/PDIF cable is at least $500 IME.  It's needed anyway, even with the attenuators, in order to minimize skin-effect, dispersion and losses that slow and move the edges.
 
Steve N.
Empirical Audio
 
Jul 16, 2010 at 2:53 PM Post #1,460 of 1,958
I'm never going to spend that kind of money only for an S/PDIF cable. This is quite ridiculous. I got the Oyaide DB-510 and this is as far as I will go. I'd rather put my money somewhere else in the audio chain.
 
Jul 16, 2010 at 3:08 PM Post #1,461 of 1,958
I got my Hiface yesterday. This is my forst foray into computer-based music server. Previously I've used media players like WDTV and Popcorn A-200 with toslink and coax out respectively. I wanted to hear if a laptop/hiface combo would offer better sound quality as a digital transport.
 
I listened for a few hours with several permutations:
 
1) 3M Belkin USB -> Hiface->RCA-RCA Adapter-> AD1865-based DIY DAC
2) Hiface -> 4ft. Neotech PCOCC Coaxial -> DAC
 
Software
 
1) 1.03 Foobar w/WASAPI
2) .8.3 Foobar w/ KS
 
My laptop runs Vista
 
First off the overall the sound quality is indeed superior to the media players I have used. No question. Hiface is clean, clear, and quiet.
 
I preferred what I heard using the long Belkin USB. Tones were warmer, highs very slightly recessed, but very very quiet background. With the Neotech Coax the sound was more neutral/cool, more dynamic, a teeny bit splashy on the top end but overall I'd say neutral. Now I obviously did not wait for any burn-in, this is just fresh out the box impressions. Also, I would not be surprised if the coax was the more accurate presentation due to recent component changes in my set-up. I can see how some may find the Hiface forward and bright, but I'll side with previous comments that this may have more to do with other components. Most retail speakers for instance tend to have a hotter top end and this could be a not so great match for the Hiface. I think the Hiface gives a straight neutral presentation. My DIY speakers were designed with a pretty flat response and the Hi-face sounded just a hair splashy, but not forward, and I am very sensitive to bright/forward sound. Drives me nuts. If indeed it does break-in it would probably be perfect.
 
The soundstage was fine. I would not describe it as closed or narrow. I think 'intimate' is the word I would use to describe what I heard.
 
Imaging is off the hook/chain/rope/whatever
Very good detail retrieval
 
Software
 
I found the 8.3 w/ KS to not sound as good as the 1.03 w/ WASAPI. But I am very
new to the software side of things and I probably missed some optimizations along the way.
WASAPI sounds really, really good.
 
I think the Hiface is very much an 'audiophile' product. What I hear caters to that delicate, precise
balance of transparency and detail. The Hiface I think will let you know if you have any weak links
in the chain.
 
 
That said, I am trying to order the Audio-gd DSP-3. That thing looks tight!
 
biggrin.gif

 
Jul 16, 2010 at 3:43 PM Post #1,462 of 1,958


Quote:
A good S/PDIF cable is at least $500 IME.  It's needed anyway, even with the attenuators, in order to minimize skin-effect, dispersion and losses that slow and move the edges.
 
Steve N.
Empirical Audio


Can you say something about each of these & say how they are minimised in a quality cable & if minimising their effects is worth 30 times the cost of an attenuator?
 
Jul 16, 2010 at 9:22 PM Post #1,463 of 1,958
Jul 16, 2010 at 9:32 PM Post #1,464 of 1,958


Quote:
Would a 3.3v regulated supply like these be an improvement over the stock hiface?
 
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=114
 
http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/796
 
I know it would be best to get the lithium LiFe batteries, charger, etc. but that's going to come more money (if via jkeny) and more time (if i diy) than I have right now. If either of those only get me halfway there as far increase in sound quality i'll be happy...

To supply this 3.3V to the Hiface, you need to do the DIY bit that isolates the clock supply & clock handling supplies - once you've done this you can use any supply you want (the batteries are the best I've heard) but this is the bit that you don't have the time to do so you can't use the 3.3V supply unless you first do this DIY first! Circular answer I know!
 
 
Jul 17, 2010 at 1:53 AM Post #1,465 of 1,958
From my experience, battery mod polish up the slight digital edginess and slightly improves on most other sound elements that makes a difference.
 
Jul 17, 2010 at 4:05 AM Post #1,467 of 1,958
OK. The improvement is obvious, my mileage might be different but it does improve.
 
Jul 17, 2010 at 11:53 AM Post #1,469 of 1,958


Quote:
From my experience, battery mod polish up the slight digital edginess and slightly improves on most other sound elements that makes a difference.


I agree with Regal, the mod hugely improves the sound with the right equipment. Your description sounds to me how I would describe the improvement with the attenuators!
 
Jul 17, 2010 at 1:11 PM Post #1,470 of 1,958
 
Quote:
 Can you say something about each of these & say how they are minimised in a quality cable & if minimising their effects is worth 30 times the cost of an attenuator?

 
  1. Skin-effect - mostly a function of the conductor diameter
  2. Losses and Dispersion - a function of the dielectric - teflon is good, expanded Teflon is better, air is even better, vacuum is best
  3. Impedance matching - as close to 75 ohms as possible
  4. Conductor metallurgy - jumbled crystal lattice causes lots of micro-reflections.  Good cables use pure perfect crystal silver or gold
  5. Conductor Geometry - Correct geometry rejects common-mode noise and RF
 
This is needed in ADDITION to the attenuator, not to replace it.  The problem is that the signal is out of spec.
 
This is just like any other claim someone makes.  Unless you have heard a really good S/PDIF cable, most just dont get it and refuse to believe it.  BTW, there are plenty of $500 cables out there that are junk too.
 
Steve N.
Empirical Audio
 

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