I love the Hyperion.. Wonderful little IEM, especially with the early discounts that were offeredthe hyperion has landed
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I love the Hyperion.. Wonderful little IEM, especially with the early discounts that were offeredthe hyperion has landed
Mind you, forgive me for thinking aloud , I was expecting more feedback in the way of official Head fi reviews for Trinity's latest offerings :~ie Masters and PM6s and Hunters . I know the wait has been excruciating with unexpected delays and problems for the everyone but I was hoping for some Earphone Supremus to lay down their official impressions for those who are still waiting and the rest of the community.
Free with the icarus ivI love the Hyperion.. Wonderful little IEM, especially with the early discounts that were offered![]()
I'm still trying to figure out the technical difference between the Icarus IV and the PM6?
Ignoring the balanced armature part; just between:
Icarus IV: "11mm dual coil electroacoustic transducer"
& PM6: 2 x dual coil dynamic drivers in a push-pull configuration
If anyone with technical knowledge could advise, I'd really appreciate it!
Namely:
1) what is an 'electroacoustic transducer'? How does it compare to a dynamic driver? Or it's a different name for the same thing?
2) As far as I know, IEM's such as the Campfire Audio Vega have a single dynamic driver per side (per individual earphone I mean).
So am I understanding correctly that the PM6 actually has TWO dynamic drivers per side (in a push-pull configuration lol)?
3) So, and I realise any answers will be pure speculation, any thoughts on what difference these two technologies are likely to have in terms of the sound signature?
Especially with regards to (but not limited to) the bass, power, accuracy, sub-bass, etc?
I have reasons for asking, but I'd rather wait to hear any responses before posting further![]()
To add to the previous explanations above, push/pull (or isobaric) configurations are used to help reduce distortion in the sound waves being produced, to give a cleaner sound. The drivers fire "out of phase", because the inward and outward movement of a driver is not completely symmetrical, so having them both move in and out at the same time would just exaggerate any asymmetry and create more distortion in the sound output. Putting the drivers out of phase attempts to cancel the asymmetry in their movement and the related distortion due to flux modulation.
I'm no expert, but there are loads of explanatory articles on the internet (mainly regarding subwoofer design), which I read up on and pinched a bit of the above from when originally writing up a description on the Sabre many moons ago. Hope that helps!
There are just too many unknows with Flare Pro for me to jump on the order:
1. Can I avoid using the bluetooth DAC?
2. If not, how much would it weight? Must be quite a heavy load on the ear. R2Pro's (and A's and S's) Y splitter already seemed to weight enough to hurt not only on the ears, but on the chest after a while
3. Over-ear wear seems to be a no go (as per the instruction booklet)
4. Ad says balanced connection, but the illustrated jack seems to be a 3.5 TRS
5. Talk about QC issues and unresponsiveness... we've been promissed balanced cables when backing the R2's, and even though the team was extremely responsive at first, they ignored any email sent to them before long (about two months after the campaign ended)
6. If R2's received mixed to good reviews, Flare's latest product, the Isolate received much less positive reviews to say the least...
If I use the largest size foam tips/L Kombi size tips, would that be a ML or L for spiraldots?
@Hi-Fi'er, thank you for that suggestion! Here’s what I’ve tried:
I removed the black foam damper from the green filters and placed them into the gold undamped filters. Observations: the bright highs are somewhat tamed but at a cost… the highs seem more “closed-in” now and also I seem to be hearing a spike in the highs (maybe 8kHz). The bass seems more over-emphasised it would seem. There doesn’t seem to be a change in the sibilance which is still present in some tracks.
I tried the green filters (since I’ve removed the foam dampers). Observations: Too bright! The highs seemed especially strident and I had to stop after 10 minutes. (I have a wee bit of a headache now…)
Giving some thought to what @bk123 (and @Miko 7 earlier) said about modding the damping materials I cut one of the black foam damper in half and inserted each end into the gold undamped. Oof! I do believe I may have just found a sweet spot here. The highs were noticeably more manageable and still sounded fairly “open”. The bass now seems more balanced in relation to the frequency range. Unfortunately there’s still sibilance in those same tracks.
I’m now experimenting with the half-cut black foam dampers in the other filters to see how they fair. I’m liking the blue more now. I mentioned earlier that I thought I heard some congestion in the mids/mid-highs with the stock blue filters. I’m happy to report that the half-cut dampers have just about eliminated the congestion. This is a serious contender for my favourite all-rounder filter now.
Just a note here, these tracks I’m noticing sibilance in sound fine on a Shure E2c, Trinity Delta V-II and to some extent my pair of PM4. Now I’m not sure if the bright highs in the Hunter are responsible for the perceived clarity and detail whilst the flip-side of this tuning coin is the oft-mentioned sibilance (vocals, high hats, cymbals inclusive). I’m wondering if this is the new Trinity house sound?
In the meantime I’ll be trying out some more experiments (different length cuts of the black foam dampers, different damping materials, different density dampers, etc). I’ll report back when I find anything interesting.
Cheers! (Sorry for the long post...)
I thought the M/L spiral dot was 13mm and had a bore of >4mm.Large Kombi - 12.5mm wide, 9mm tall, bore dia of 5mm
M/L Spiral Dots - 12.5mm wide, 8.5mm tall, bore dia of 3mm
That's at least what my calipers say. In person the spiral dots sit nice and deep in the ear canal thus decreasing the moment arm and making the fit significantly more secure compared to the kombis. Sound is a lot "larger" as well
You know I went back to blue filters when my Spiral dots come in and the blue filters sounded excellent but even with the full black dampening certain violin and piano pieces are unbearable. I'm actually thinking about adding black dampening material to the blue filters. Keep us posted what you come up with and I'll do the same
Large Kombi - 12.5mm wide, 9mm tall, bore dia of 5mm
M/L Spiral Dots - 12.5mm wide, 8.5mm tall, bore dia of 3mm
That's at least what my calipers say. In person the spiral dots sit nice and deep in the ear canal thus decreasing the moment arm and making the fit significantly more secure compared to the kombis. Sound is a lot "larger" as well
You know I went back to blue filters when my Spiral dots come in and the blue filters sounded excellent but even with the full black dampening certain violin and piano pieces are unbearable. I'm actually thinking about adding black dampening material to the blue filters. Keep us posted what you come up with and I'll do the same
[QUOTE="Miko 7, post: 13535336, member: 465791"You know I went back to blue filters when my Spiral dots come in and the blue filters sounded excellent but even with the full black dampening certain violin and piano pieces are unbearable. I'm actually thinking about adding black dampening material to the blue filters.
[QUOTE="Miko 7, post: 13535336, member: 465791"You know I went back to blue filters when my Spiral dots come in and the blue filters sounded excellent but even with the full black dampening certain violin and piano pieces are unbearable. I'm actually thinking about adding black dampening material to the blue filters.
I thought the M/L spiral dot was 13mm and had a bore of >4mm.