[ChrisOc]

I have been listening to Mahler (Symphony No. 1), Beethoven (Symphony No. 7) and Stravinsky (Rite of Spring and Firebird Suite (1919)) on both my Starlights and Starsea today and I love both for the type of classical I listen to (which is mostly orchestral). Both present classical music differently with the Starlight the more spacious (in terms of soundstage) of the two. I do love the "up close and personal" sense I get from the Starsea and enjoy listening to classical on both iems. I will report further on how the Starshine renders classical music as soon as they are delivered , which should be anytime now.

I could not agree more with your description of the presentation of sound on the Starlights and the Starseas. They are both appealing in a different way.

Looking forward to your impressions of the Starshines!

 

[WendyLi]

What is your favorite color for earphones?

 

[ChrisOc]

What is your favorite color for earphones?

I am still struck by the TRI I3 silver.

The I3 is best TRI to touch and hold (contours, weight and shape) in my view (yes, a bit slippery) but I am not sure silver is a colour, so vivid orangey yellow would be my choice.

 

[dharmasteve]

I have been listening to Mahler (Symphony No. 1), Beethoven (Symphony No. 7) and Stravinsky (Rite of Spring and Firebird Suite (1919)) on both my Starlights and Starsea today and I love both for the type of classical I listen to (which is mostly orchestral). Both present classical music differently with the Starlight the more spacious (in terms of soundstage) of the two. I do love the "up close and personal" sense I get from the Starsea and enjoy listening to classical on both iems. I will report further on how the Starshine renders classical music as soon as they are delivered , which should be anytime now.

I got surprised seeing the strange C, C-, B marks for the TRi Starlight. Unsurprisingly most of the community find them way better than those grades and they also have excellent timbre and revealing treble. Whilst the Starsea does not have the Timbre of the Starlight it has other factors that make it great for Classical Music. The Starshine's are different still, suitable for long listens and I will be interested to hear your views on it. With the Azla Sedna Xelastecs and driven 4.4mm or 2.5mm balanced (They really need strong driving), the bass steps up a notch.

 

[Robigy]

Anyone else having bad driver flex with the i3? i have the 2 pin version and it creates a sort of suction that i find really uncomfortable. wonder if that's the case with the MMCX version, as i see they have different venting holes..

 

[baskingshark]

Anyone else having bad driver flex with the i3? i have the 2 pin version and it creates a sort of suction that i find really uncomfortable. wonder if that's the case with the MMCX version, as i see they have different venting holes..

I haven't tried the 2 pin version (I only have the MMCX version of I3) and I don't get driver flex with it. Driver flex is usually due to a too tight seal, and is partially related to the tips we use and/or our ear anatomy, maybe sometimes it occurs in certain IEM shell designs with insufficient venting. I found a few ways to mitigate it, YMMV:

1) Use foam tips instead of silicone tips, works sometimes for me. Probably cause the foam is porous and lets air escape thru the foams rather than going into the IEM shell.

2) Sometimes using another silicone tip that has lesser isolation/seal may reduce driver flex, though at the expense of isolation. Try a variety of different ear tips and sizes if you can, some tips give more driver flex than others.

3) Try opening your mouth and pulling up the earlobe before inserting the IEM, this opens the ear canal a bit for more space to insert the eartip, and hopefully some air can escape during insertion with the bigger diameter of the ear canal. This technique usually helps me get rid of driver flex 90% of the time.

4) Insert the ear tip slowly or not too deeply initially, and slowly make fine adjustments to push it in. Or insert it at an angle.

 

[Robigy]

I haven't tried the 2 pin version (I only have the MMCX version of I3) and I don't get driver flex with it. Driver flex is usually due to a too tight seal, and is partially related to the tips we use and/or our ear anatomy, maybe sometimes it occurs in certain IEM shell designs with insufficient venting. I found a few ways to mitigate it, YMMV:

1) Use foam tips instead of silicone tips, works sometimes for me. Probably cause the foam is porous and lets air escape thru the foams rather than going into the IEM shell.

2) Sometimes using another silicone tip that has lesser isolation/seal may reduce driver flex, though at the expense of isolation. Try a variety of different ear tips and sizes if you can, some tips give more driver flex than others.

3) Try opening your mouth and pulling up the earlobe before inserting the IEM, this opens the ear canal a bit for more space to insert the eartip, and hopefully some air can escape during insertion with the bigger diameter of the ear canal. This technique usually helps me get rid of driver flex 90% of the time.

4) Insert the ear tip slowly or not too deeply initially, and slowly make fine adjustments to push it in. Or insert it at an angle.

thanks for the reply, i don't mine the driver flex as much as the suction effect , if it was properly ventilated it shouldn't happen.
(every small move of the head and they keep inserting themselves deeper and deeper into my ear), it doesn't happen with foam tips, but i don't like foam tips

 

[PhonoPhi]

To follow up on this sad experience of mine with TRI I3 after multiple PMs with Wendy over the last week.


Hi friend,

I think you misunderstood me. I admitted that your I3 may not work well, then replied you our warranty policy, and asked you to contact La Electric AE store, the store you purchased the I3, which is the regular procedure for solving the problem since you didn't buy the I3 directly from our official store. There is no doubt that you should contact the AE store first rather than ask me to do what you are expected to get. I know you are a victim, so I made a sincere apology for you at the very first time. And I know we KBEAR has a responsibility since I3 is one of the models of our sister brand. I told our factory to improve products' quality already and we are dedicated to making our products better. But the AE store also has a responsibility to help you. You are the direct consumer of AE store and you paid money to buy I3 from that store. Shouldn't you ask them to provide after-sales service for this product? Is there anything wrong with the logic or the order of processing your concern/problem?

You are right. I am not customer service. To be frank, this is not my duty. But I still want to do something for you, maybe just a little bit from your perspective. It turned out to be not enough, right? My job is like what you said, just "to post pretty pictures and solicit sales". That is why I told you that we have special staff who is responsible for agent business, and let you contact the AE store, then AE store will reach the staff who works on the project and figure out a solution for you. For this, I made an example (a return to fix for your I3) in my message. So this made you think I am escaping from your problem? Or refusing to help you or so?

Frankly speaking, I can understand you fully. I hope you can understand me as well. If there is something in this post that let you feel unpleasant or offensive, I am sorry! I just do what I can do and do what I think is right. What's most important is to solve the problem instead of blaming/complaining to each other.

If you are not "customer service" then everything makes sense.
Sorry that I misunderstood.

Then if I possibly could not figure out to contact the store where I made my purchase, you decisively directed me.

Thanks to the great support of Chris, I redirected my efforts from the posts and took ~10-15 minutes and few drops of superglue to at least alleviate the problem to be minimal, and I can repeat if the connectors will become loose again.

 

[ChrisOc]

If you are not "customer service" then everything makes sense.
Sorry that I misunderstood.

Then if I possibly could not figure out to contact the store where I made my purchase, you decisively directed me.

Thanks to the great support of Chris, I redirected my efforts from the posts and took ~10-15 minutes and few drops of superglue to at least alleviate the problem to be minimal, and I can repeat if the connectors will become loose again.

@PhonoPhi, I am pleased you skillfully sorted it out, hopefully it works out to be a permanent fix.

I am still waiting for your impressions of the sound.

 

[PhonoPhi]

@PhonoPhi, I am pleased you skillfully sorted it out, hopefully it works out to be a permanent fix.

I am still waiting for your impressions of the sound.

The most skills I could claim is getting a small droplet of superglue on a needle to deliver into the gaps.

I did post my short summary of impressions of TRI I3, as promised:

https://www.head-fi.org/showcase/tri-i3.24171/reviews

I do not have more to add other than amending about connectors.

 

[mndless]

If you are not "customer service" then everything makes sense.
Sorry that I misunderstood.

Then if I possibly could not figure out to contact the store where I made my purchase, you decisively directed me.

Thanks to the great support of Chris, I redirected my efforts from the posts and took ~10-15 minutes and few drops of superglue to at least alleviate the problem to be minimal, and I can repeat if the connectors will become loose again.

If the connector surround ever actually pulls out enough that you can use a needle to apply adhesive all the way around it before pushing it back into place, I would mix up a two-part epoxy resin to apply to it instead of cyanoacrylate, as cyanoacrylate is not ideal for high vibration environments. Try to find something that can bond to metal and plastic with as long a set time as you can get, since this typically results in a stronger bond. Cyanoacrylate is good for temporary fixes and proof of concept to see if you can get it to stop rattling through application of adhesive yourself, but it will most likely fail again in a few months. If you have a craft knife or dental picks, I would use those to remove the CA glue before applying the epoxy resin.

 

[Nimweth]

What is your favorite color for earphones?

The colour of the Northern Lights.

 

[Cyberthingy]

What is your favorite color for earphones?

I am partial to Greens but I also like Turquoise, Orange and yellow.

 

[dharmasteve]

What is your favorite color for earphones?

The silver TRi i3 looks classy to me. Best looking of my, too many, IEMs.

 

[WendyLi]

If you are not "customer service" then everything makes sense.
Sorry that I misunderstood.

Then if I possibly could not figure out to contact the store where I made my purchase, you decisively directed me.

Thanks to the great support of Chris, I redirected my efforts from the posts and took ~10-15 minutes and few drops of superglue to at least alleviate the problem to be minimal, and I can repeat if the connectors will become loose again.

Hi friend,

That's alright. Would you contact that AE store? As you said, the fixed method of dropping superglue may be temporary. I suggest you keep some proof and send it to the AE store when you are looking for a solution. Or if you think it's ok, you can send me your order id, related order information, and some chat screenshot, etc. I will help you to find our agent-related staff and ask him/her to confirm with the AE store and address the problem.

Generally speaking, every store will have its customer service. It's more convenient and straightforward to chat with the store when you come across problems or questions. If you have related confusion or so, I am happy to help you if I know.

Actually, I am really sorry for the trouble caused to you! We will endeavor to improve our QC more and more.