Themilkman46290
1000+ Head-Fier
Thanks guys, turns out my suspicion was right glad i didnt turn it on, guess i will meed to take it back and hope the get it right
Thanks guys, turns out my suspicion was right glad i didnt turn it on, guess i will meed to take it back and hope the get it right
Thanks guys, turns out my suspicion was right glad i didnt turn it on, guess i will meed to take it back and hope the get it right
Yeah, ordered them, waited for ever to get them, glad i didnt turn it on
Thinking about getting a rework station, looking at the yihua 858d, read that it needs to be modded a bit and properly ground it
Anyone got better suggestions in this price?
And how difficult is it to use, i can use soldering iron bit never tried a hot air station
@Themilkman46290
I never had used hot air before, but it's the correct way to do change SMDs or soic opamps. I don't find it more difficult than using a soldering iron for the soldering iron work. For doing SMDs hot air is much much easier than a soldering iron.
Requirements are steady hand and good close range eye sight, but I manage to do the work.
If you right handed, tweezers will go in that hand.
Some advises:
Watch some videos.
Train in a old board.
Use low fan speed or the components will fly.
Use precision tweezers (don't need to be expensive)
If needed take photos before the work.
If needed, make some small heat shields from copper foil (I isolate the copper foil with kapton tape) or any other material to protect other components, plastic parts or wires in the PCB. It will be very hot both sides of the PCB, be careful with the other PCB side, don't allow batteries to take any heat.
When you start to heat the PCB needs to get hot and takes some time, move the air in the component area, after that solder from surrounding components can also be melted, so you need a steady hand or others can move from place.
Biggest problem I found is a 603 size SMD jumping from the tweezers before it was soldered and never to be found again.
Now I apply lower tweezers force.
You need to use something bellow the PCB to protect the table from heat.
I reuse the solder already in the PCB and finishing with the iron and flux if needed, but this is a shortcut not the correct technique.
With the soldering iron I'm using a water based flux that leaves no residue.
Video tutorials are the best to learn this, my advises are from my learning curve.
Well i have the ak4490 and the ak4497, i have also heard the ak4495, the ak4495 has the most synergy with high and low impedance headphones, the ak4490 version is the best if you have mainly iems or low impedance (use it with my he4xx and it gets louder and has less distortions, better sub bass etc etc) the ak4497 version is not that great with sensitive iems, but pushes my samsaras beautifully and i tried them with some dt770 pro 250ohm and they sound marvelous, as loud as needed and very well controlled, it also is the only version which is th 2.5 balance jack, the other 2 versions have a line out insteadI mainly listen to 16 bit wav files and some 24 bit wav files so I guess I dont need the best of the best but the AK4497 sounds like the best option? I do have an AK4490 Z3 but its busted. I need to get it fixed.