Also looks like a Japanese prototype seen here https://sites.google.com/view/chikoidac/home/core2dap?authuser=0
The Zishan dsd's corner
XTF1
100+ Head-Fier
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Ok
Ordered, will be first
~110$
Note on the ARM CPU: if it is like the Zishan MD2, there may be 2x MCUs: an Atmel ATSAM3U1C (ARM Cortex M3) for the Amanero-like USB-to-I2S interface (+FPGA), and a “main” STM32 (ARM Cortex M7?) to manage all the internals (UI, SD files, DAC setting, volume control). The U1 also uses this architecture with but in its case, the “main” MCU is a smaller STM8 as it has no screen and no UI to handle.
It is possible that the STM32 exposes the SD card to the charging USB-C port to allow file transfer (no details).
I also say “Amanero-like” because I am not sure these are real Amanero’s: they certainly use the same HW, but the firmware may be a hacked version, not upgradable with the Amanero tools (bricking likely!!!).
The bluetooth module looks identical to the one used on the MD1/MD2. There must be an antenna somewhere… and either the housing is plastic or it’s the back plate. It is also possible that the cover on top of the 5x buttons is plastic/rubber, enough for a reasonable bluetooth reception.
I didn’t see any screw on the housing or back plate so this thing may be all glued together
Z4 on the go.
+
Nice 150uF, 100uF, 47uF and 1uF X5R and X7R
New LDO TI 5907 3.3V
And OPA1656 for LPF
+
Nice 150uF, 100uF, 47uF and 1uF X5R and X7R
New LDO TI 5907 3.3V
And OPA1656 for LPF
Merlin-PT
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@maxxkur
Nice, thanks for sharing.
Out of curiosity, what's the red wire ? Is it for measurements?
Please take a look at your private messages, I sent you one.
Nice, thanks for sharing.
Out of curiosity, what's the red wire ? Is it for measurements?
Please take a look at your private messages, I sent you one.
maxxkur
New Head-Fier
No, it`s for additional "ground" connection between analog and digital PCB. LPF: 2xAD8620AR, PhoneOut: OPA2156
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Hey @maxxkur did you also change all caps as I can see, did you try the AD8620 with +/-5V? This voltage is used in Hiby R5 and sounds OK for me.
maxxkur
New Head-Fier
Yes, I did. DACs caps like on picture + all OPAmps caps - after DC-DC converter Yageo 100uF16v 1210 X5R 20pcs, LPF OpAmps power supply TDK 47uF16v 1206 X5R+Murata 0.1uF50v NPO 1206, main OpAmp - 220uF16v SunCon CA+ Murata 22uF25v X5R 1206+Murata 0.1uF50v NPO 1206. All LPF resistors 3.3k and 6.8k Panasonic 0.1% 0603 + all LPF caps Murata 0603 NPO type.
ctleake
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Really kind of you to put this file up anucha!
Is it only for the ES9038, or will it work on my AK4497EQ?
If not, do you have the email address of Nicehck so I could contact them?
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dojwB
New Head-Fier
Hello, I just got the DSDs CS version. But it has quite a lot of latency on Windows and macOS that I can't enjoy any other content than music. Is there a way to mitigate it?
It's impossible to fix these latency.
Z1/2/3 and DSD/DSDs have 1-2s of latency in USB. Just go for U1 or Z4 for good latency if You want Zishan device.
As @Setmagic told you the problem is the implementation of the usb interface (libraries) on the zishan Z1,2,3 and DSD, moreover z4 has the implementation of the amanero device which is better to decode the usb signals than the STM32 implementation.
We have some small beast: Z4 have 884mW in balanced mode -> klick
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hello guys, I need some help. I've got a Burson V6 from Burson for a test. I also got the extension wires. I've got it working, but I want to put the boards back in the metal casing.
The extension wire socket is way to huge. I need to cut and solder the wires flat on the dip 8 socket, and route the wires outside, to the top or botton cover. And then connect the wires to the top of the extension socket. Then I can connect the opamp outside of the casing. But the problem is there is not enough space between the board. there is only a few mm. space.
I need to cut the extension wires anyway to extend them and bring the extension socket outside of the top or bottom of the casing
I think about three solutions:
1. Cut out the back of the casing, and then there is more space between the boards. I can hold the battery in place with tape, and put the opamp on top of the battery. Pretty rough job.
2. Demolish and take out the 8 pins of the spare dip 8 socket, and solder 8 wires on the 8 pins, and put the pins in the DSD socket. I need to grind the pins to make them shorter. I don't know it this will hold for a longer period, and I don't know if the opamp will blow up if one or more pins stop making contact. I can put some tape on the pins to cover and protect them and hold them in place.
3. Solder 8 wires on the back of the board (other side of the DSD dip 8 socket). And connect the wires to the extension socket. But then the battery doesn't fit in the casing anymore, I need to put the battery outside of the casing.
What is your advice? The V6 sounds pretty good so I think it's worth the effort.
The extension wire socket is way to huge. I need to cut and solder the wires flat on the dip 8 socket, and route the wires outside, to the top or botton cover. And then connect the wires to the top of the extension socket. Then I can connect the opamp outside of the casing. But the problem is there is not enough space between the board. there is only a few mm. space.
I need to cut the extension wires anyway to extend them and bring the extension socket outside of the top or bottom of the casing
I think about three solutions:
1. Cut out the back of the casing, and then there is more space between the boards. I can hold the battery in place with tape, and put the opamp on top of the battery. Pretty rough job.
2. Demolish and take out the 8 pins of the spare dip 8 socket, and solder 8 wires on the 8 pins, and put the pins in the DSD socket. I need to grind the pins to make them shorter. I don't know it this will hold for a longer period, and I don't know if the opamp will blow up if one or more pins stop making contact. I can put some tape on the pins to cover and protect them and hold them in place.
3. Solder 8 wires on the back of the board (other side of the DSD dip 8 socket). And connect the wires to the extension socket. But then the battery doesn't fit in the casing anymore, I need to put the battery outside of the casing.
What is your advice? The V6 sounds pretty good so I think it's worth the effort.
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